2003 BMW 3 Series Electrical System

On June 28,2024, after parking and turning off the ignition switch, the dash started smoking and within minutes the whole dash and front of car were on fire. The car almost completely burned to the ground before the fire department could get there. The car was recently serviced at a BMW for an air bag recall. Heater ducts were loose when returned. There are also recalls for the 2006 325i for similar dash fires. The cause could be either dealer work or a factory issue.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNED A 2003 BMW 325I. THE CONTACT STATED THAT WHILE THE VEHICLE WAS PARKED, IT CAUGHT ON FIRE. THE FIRE DEPARTMENT EXTINGUISHED THE FIRE. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE FIRE ARSONIST INVESTIGATOR FILED A REPORT AND PROVIDED A CASE NUMBER. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT TOWED TO A DEALER AND WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS APPROXIMATELY 120,000.

IT HAS BEEN MORE THAN 8 YEARS ALL POWER RELATED TO OPENING/CLOSING THE PASSENGER DOOR INCLUDING THE HANDLE DOES NOT WORK, NOT ABLE TO OPEN THE GLOVE COMPARTMENT, NOT ABLE TO OPEN THE GAS DOOR, NOT ABLE TO OPEN THE TRUNK WITHOUT HAVING TO USE THE KEY. CONVERTIBLE TOP IS NOT WORKING. WORST OF ALL I'M NOT ABLE TO HAVE A PASSENGER IN THE CAR FOR SAFETY PURPOSES. DEALERS HAVE NOT BEEN HELPFUL. CAR IS LIKE NEW WITH LESS THAN 80,000 MILES.

BOTH BACK WINDOWS ON MY 2003 BMW 325I WILL NOT GO UP. GARAGE SAYS BOTH REGULATORS AND ACTUATORS MUST BE REPLACED. RESEARCHING THE INTERNET SHOWS THIS TO BE A COMMON FAILURE ON THIS MODEL AND IT IS CONSIDERED A SAFETY HAZARD.

DANGEROUS DEATH TRAP!!! I GOT STUCK IN MY CAR BECAUSE THE DOOR LOCKS DO NOT WORK. YOU ARE UNABLE TO GET OUT OF THE CAR IF THE UNLOCK MECHANISM FAILS. THERE ARE MANY COMPAINTS OF THE SAME FOR THE E46 BMW MODELS. WE HAD TO CRAWL OF WINDOWS AND LUCKILY THOSE WORKED. AS DESIGNED, YOU CANNOT OPEN THE DOORS IF ITHE MODULE FAILS AND THERE IS NOT MECHANICAL OVERRIDE TO UNLOCK. THERE IS NOT DOOR KEY FOR PASSENGER DOORS AS WELL. THIS HAS HAPPENED MULTIPLE TIMES, I AM LOOKING TO GET IT FIXED BUT IT WORKS SOMETIMES.

TRANSMISSION WILL DROP OUT OF GEAR AND SHUT CAR DOWN, WHILE VEHICLE IN MOTION DURING NORMAL USE. VEHICLE WILL ONLY WORK WHEN COLD, MANUFACTURER IS AWARE OF BADLY DESIGNED SMG TEMP SENSOR AND NEGLIGENTLY DESIGNED COMPUTER LOGIC THAT SHIFTS TRANSMISSION TO NEUTRAL AND SHUTS CAR DOWN.

I'VE HAD THIS ISSUE FOR MANY YEARS NOW BUT NEVER THOUGHT ABOUT THE POTENTIAL CONSEQUENCES. OTHER PEOPLE HAVE HAD THESE ISSUES AS CAN BE FOUND WHEN DOING SEARCHES ON THE INTERNET. THIS PROBLEM INVOLVES THE DOOR NOT UNLOCKING AFTER BEING LOCKED VIA THE CENTER CONSOLE, KEY FOB, OR AUTO LOCK FEATURE WHEN VEHICLE IS MOBILE. THIS HAS BEEN REPORTED ACROSS MULTIPLE BUILD TYPES DURING THE EARLY 2000'S. THIS IS POTENTIALLY DANGEROUS ESPECIALLY IN AN ACCIDENT OR FIRE WHEN OCCUPANTS CANNOT SAFELY AND QUICKLY EXIT THE CAR WITHOUT HAVING THE BREAK THE WINDOW AND CLIMB OUT BECAUSE THE DOORS WILL NOT EVEN UNLOCK WHEN YOU PULL THE LATCH WHICH SHOULD DISENGAGE THE "LOCKED" STATE. I HAD GO TEND TO A PATIENT AT THE HOSPITAL TODAY FOR EMERGENCY SURGERY AND COULD NOT GET OUT OF MY CAR WITHOUT HAVING TO ROLL DOWN MY WINDOW, THEN USE MY KEY TO UNLOCK MY DOOR FROM THE LOCK CYLINDER ON THE OUTSIDE. HOWEVER I WAS UNABLE TO RETRIEVE ANYTHING ELSE FROM MY CAR AND HAD TO DO SO FROM THE DRIVER DOOR ONLY. THIS CAN BE LIFE THREATENING IN THE WRONG SITUATIONS. THIS INVOLVES THE GENERAL MODULE 5 OR "GM5" AND SHOULD BE INVESTIGATED FOR A POTENTIAL SAFETY RECALL AS IT IS INTERMITTENT.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2003 BMW 325CI. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE KEY FOB AND KEY FAILED TO UNLOCK THE DOORS. THE CONTACT HAD TO MAKE SEVERAL ATTEMPTS TO UNLOCK THE DOORS BY USING THE KEY FOB AND KEY. THE DEALER DIAGNOSED THAT THE MODULE FIVE NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. THE VEHICLE HAD NOT BEEN REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 80,000. MA 09/22

GM5 ELECTRIC MODULE STOPPED COMMUNICATING WITH REMOTE CONTROL. VARIOUS INTERMITTENT ACTIVITY FOR DRIVER DOOR UNLOCK MECHANISM AND PASSENGER UNLOCK MECHANISM BY ANY AVAILABLE INTERNAL HARD-WIRED OR REMOTE BUTTON. 100% FAILURE OF FOOTWELL TRUNK RELEASE BUTTON. *TR

THE CENTRAL LOCKING SYSTEM INTERMITTENTLY FAILS TO OPERATE; PROBLEM IS INFLUENCED BY TEMPERATURE EXTREMES (HOT AND COLD); SYMPTOMS VARY FROM REQUIRING THE DRIVER TO LOCK AND UNLOCK THE VEHICLE SEVERAL TIMES BEFORE THE DOORS WILL UNLOCK TO A COMPLETE FAILURE OF ALL DOORS TO UNLOCK. WHEN THE PROBLEM MANIFESTS ITSELF, THE CENTRAL ELECTRIC DOOR LOCK BUTTON (MOUNTED IN THE CENTER CONSOLE BESIDE THE HAZARD LIGHT SWITCH) IS INOPERABLE. BMW CRASH SAFETY FEATURES INCLUDE MECHANICAL DISCONNECT OF DOOR LATCHES WHEN LOCKED; WHEN THIS PARTICULAR PROBLEM MANIFESTS, SOMETIMES THE PASSENGER SIDE DOORS WILL REMAIN MECHANICALLY DISCONNECTED, MEANING THAT THE DOORS CANNOT BE OPENED AT ALL. IN A WORST CASE SCENARIO, IF THE DRIVER'S SIDE OF THE VEHICLE UNUSABLE FOR ESCAPE DUE TO DAMAGE OR BEING BLOCKED, THE ONLY WAY TO ESCAPE FROM THE VEHICLE IS BY SMASHING WINDOWS. BMWS ARE NOT EQUIPPED WITH A GLASS BREAK DEVICE. THE PROBLEM SEEMS TO BE A BODY MODULE CALLED THE GM5, WHICH IS MOUNTED ABOVE/IN FRONT OF THE GLOVE BOX; ALL LOCK POWER CIRCUITS RUN THROUGH THIS MODULE; THE PROBLEM SEEMS TO BE A VOLTAGE DROP IN THE MODULE, RESULTING IN INSUFFICIENT VOLTAGE TO THE LOCK MECHANISMS, AS YOU CAN HEAR THE LOCKS ATTEMPTING TO CYCLE WHEN AND CAN SEE THE LOCK BUTTONS MOVING WHEN THE KEY FOB IS USED IN AN ATTEMPT TO UNLOCK THE DOORS. A GOOGLE SEARCH OF THE TERMS "BMW","DOORS WON'T UNLOCK" GETS AT LEAST 10 PAGES OF RESULTS ON THE ISSUE, INCLUDING SEVERAL THAT IDENTIFY THE GM5 MODULE AS THE CAUSE OF THE PROBLEM AND WAYS TO FIX IT. REPAIR REQUIRES A NEW GM5 MODULE THAT NEEDS TO BE PROGRAMMED PRIOR TO INSTALL. *TR

I WAS IN A PARKING GARAGE THE WEEKEND AFTER I HAD JUST BOUGHT MY 2003 BMW 330XI MAN IT WAS BEAUTIFUL, I HAD MY GIRLFRIEND WITH ME AT THE TIME. UPON TRYING TO EXIT THE VEHICLE WE COULDN'T NOTHING WOULD UNLOCK THE DOORS, NOTHING WOULD ROLL DOWN THE WINDOWS, THIS WAS EXTREMELY EMBARRASSING TO BE HAPPENING ON A DATE. SHE COULDN'T BELIEVE WE WERE STUCK IN THE CAR AND THERE WAS NO WAY OUT. LUCKILY HAVING MY CELL PHONE I WAS ABLE TO CALL 911 SO THEY COULD HELP ME. I MANAGED TO HAVE THE SUNROOF OPEN AT THE TIME AND WAS ABLE TO HAND THEM MY KEYS WHERE THEY COULD PLACE THE KEY INSIDE OF THE KEY HOLE AND MANUAL UNLOCK THE DOORS. THIS IS ONLY THE FIRST EXPERIENCE I EVER HAD. I ONLY CALLED THE POLICE SO THEY COULD TAKE NOTE OF THE ISSUE OF THE SAFETY. I HAVE TAKEN FAMILY OUT FOR OUTINGS ONLY TO FIND OUT THEY ALL HAVE TO CLIMB OUT OF WINDOWS OR THROUGH THE DRIVERS DOOR. I'VE EVEN HAD TO CLIMB OUT OF MY OWN CAR I REFUSE TO PUT A DIME INTO FIXING THIS AS ITS CAUSED ME EMBARRASSMENT TO THE POINT I HARDLY DRIVE IT UNLESS I GO SOMEWHERE ALONE. I EVEN HAVE A SEAT BELT THAT DOESN'T WORK FOR NO REASON. THE GM5 NEEDS TO BE RECALLED IMAGE IF I HAD A CHILD OR FAMILY BACK THERE THE CAR WAS ON FIRE AND THE ONLY WAY TO GET THEM OUT IS TO OPEN THE DOOR AND YOU CAN'T BECAUSE OF A FAULTY PIECE OF EQUIPMENT. *TR

THE DISPLAY THAT SHOWS THE ODOMETER, TEMPERATURE, TRIP METER, ETC. STOPPED WORKING COMPLETELY. A PIXEL OR TWO WILL SHOW UP, BUT NO LEGIBLE INFORMATION. *TR

PLEASE NOTE THAT THIS INCIDENT HAPPENED PRIOR TO THE DATE AND MILEAGE NOTED ABOVE AS THE PREVIOUS OWNER HAD TO ALSO DEAL WITH THIS PROBLEM. I REPORT THE DATES AS WHEN I RECEIVED THE CAR WHEN IT CAME INTO MY OWNERSHIP ONLY. DRIVER'S DOOR LOCK FAILED TO ELECTRONICALLY AND MECHANICALLY UNLOCKED FROM THE INSIDE. THE DOOR CAN ONLY BE OPENED FROM THE OUTSIDE WITH A KEY. THIS POSES A POTENTIALLY GRAVE SAFETY CONCERN AS NO ONE CAN OPEN THE DOOR FROM INSIDE - ESSENTIALLY PASSENGERS MAY BECOME LOCKED-IN. CULPRIT APPEARS TO BE BMW E46 GM V MODULE FACTORY CODING WHERE GLITCH PREVENTS DOOR LOCKS FROM BEHAVING APPROPRIATELY. AFTERMARKET REPROGRAMMING FIXES THE ISSUE. THIS IS A VERY COMMON ISSUE FOR BMW E46 VEHICLES - INTERNET SEARCH "BMW GM V CONTROL MODULE" FOR DETAILS AND TESTIMONIALS. BMW SHOULD BE HELD RESPONSIBLE AND FIX THE ISSUE. *TR

I WAS LOCKED IN MY CAR FOR 1 HOUR. MY KEY FOB WOULD NOT UNLOCK MY DOORS, SO I MANUALLY OPENED THE DOOR, STARTED THE CAR, CLOSED THE DOOR, AND TRIED TO WARM UP THE CAR (IT IS WINTER IN CHICAGO AND MY WINDOWS WERE ALSO FROZEN SHUT). I THEN PRESSED THE DOOR LOCK BUTTON TWICE IN AN ATTEMPT TO UNLOCK THE DOORS AND AT THAT POINT I LEARNED I WAS LOCKED IN MY CAR. I TRIED DRIVING THE CAR A BLOCK TO SEE IF THE LOCKS WOULD RESET AND NOTHING WORKED (NEITHER THE DOOR LEVERS, KEY FOB OR LOCK BUTTON). I CALLED A DEALER AND THEY SUGGESTED I DRIVE IT TO THE SERVICE CENTER. WHEN I ARRIVED AT THE SERVICE CENTER AN HOUR LATER, MY WINDOW WAS NO LONGER FROZEN SO I HANDED THE KEY TO THE AGENT AND ALTHOUGH THE MANUAL DOOR HANDLES AND UNLOCK BUTTON WOULD NOT WORK, THE KEY FOB WAS ABLE TO UNLOCK THE DOORS. THE AGENT AGREED THAT THERE WAS A PROBLEM THAT NEEDED TO BE INSPECTED. I DROVE THE CAR HOME. TWO DAYS LATER I TRIED TO START THE CAR AND THE BATTERY WAS DEAD. WE JUMPED IT AND I DROVE THE CAR TO A DEALER. THE DEALER REPLACED AND PROGRAMMED THE GENERAL MODULE BEHIND THE GLOVE BOX. THEY SAID THAT IT HAD CAUSED THE PROBLEM WITH THE DOORS AND DRAINED THE BATTERY. THE BMW REPRESENTATIVES DO NOT SEEM SURPRISED BY THE PROBLEM, BUT I WAS QUITE FRIGHTENED BY THE FACT THAT I HAD TO DRIVE MY CAR WHILE LOCKED INSIDE THE VEHICLE. *TR

DROVE FOR ABOUT 2 HOURS. LEFT THE CAR PARKED FOR ABOUT 3 HOURS. WHEN I TRIED TO UNLOCK PASSENGER DOOR VIA REMOTE KEY FOB IT DID NOT. I GOT INSIDE THE CAR AND TRIED TO UNLOCK IT MANUALLY BUT IT STILL DID NOT LET ME. I HAD MY HANDICAPPED SISTER WITH ME AND IT WAS IMPOSSIBLE TO GET HER INSIDE THE CAR. I HAD SOMEBODY COME TO PICK HER UP AFTER OVER 3 HOURS. I HAVE NEVER SEEN ANOTHER CAR THAT WILL NOT UNLOCK AT LEAST MANUALLY WHEN YOU PULL THE DOOR LEVER ON THE INSIDE OR LIFT THE LOCK MECHANISM MANUALLY. NEXT DAY THE LOCK WORKED IN THE MORNING BUT AS THE DAY GOT HOTTER IT STOPPED WORKING AGAIN AND IT WOULD NOT UNLOCK EVEN MANUALLY. *TR

CENTRAL LOCKING MECHANISM IS GOING CRAZY. IF I WERE IN A CRASH, THE CAR IS SUPPOSED TO UNLOCK THE DOORS, TURN ON THE FLASHERS, ETC. THIS WILL NOT HAPPEN WITH THE CENTRAL LOCKING MECHANISM WORKING INTERMITTENTLY. IF I AM INJURED IN AN ACCIDENT IT MAY BE MORE DIFFICULT FOR PARAMEDICS TO GET TO ME. I WAS ACTUALLY LOCKED IN MY CAR TODAY WHEN I ARRIVED AT SCHOOL. I HAD TO CRAWL OUT THE WINDOW AND THANKFULLY I WAS ABLE TO ROLL UP THE WINDOW WITH THE KEY IN THE DOOR. I HAVE READ THAT THIS MAY STOP WORKING AS WELL. THIS IS VERY CONCERNING, ONLINE I HAVE READ THAT THIS CAN COST AROUND $750.00 TO FIX AT THE LOCAL BMW STEALERSHIP (WHOOPS, DEALERSHIP). BMW SHOULD FIX THIS IF THEY ARE CONCERNED WITH THEIR DRIVERS SAFETY. *TR

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2003 BMW 330 XI. THE CONTACT STATED THAT WHILE THE VEHICLE WAS PARKED, THE INSTRUMENT PANEL CAUGHT FIRE. THE VEHICLE WAS DESTROYED. THE POLICE WERE CONTACTED AND A FIRE REPORT WAS ON FILE. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT TAKEN TO THE DEALER. THE MANUFACTURER WAS CONTACTED AND THEY CONFIRMED THAT THE VIN QUALIFIED FOR REPAIRS UNDER NHTSA CAMPAIGN ID NUMBER: 11V438000 (EXTERIOR LIGHTING:BRAKE LIGHTS). THE FAILURE AND CURRENT MILEAGES WERE 110,000.

DOORS FAIL TO UNLOCK, EITHER USING THE KEYFOB, THE INSIDE BUTTON OR MANUALLY BY PULLING THE DOOR HANDLE. THIS IS A VERY DANGEROUS SITUATION AS OCCUPANTS ARE TRAPPED INSIDE. NO METHOD OF OPENING THE DOOR WORK. THIS APPEARS TO BE INTERMITTENT AND EVENTUALLY THE DOORS UNLOCK MECHANISM STARTS WORKING AGAIN. THE GM5 MODULE SEEMS AT FAULT. THIS COULD BE VERY DANGEROUS IN AN EMERGENCY SITUATION. *TR

GROUND WIRE ON REAR LIGHT WIRING HARNESS HAS BURNT THROUGH DAMAGING PLUG AND SOCKET. POTENTIAL FOR FIRE. UPDATED 09/07/11 *BF *TR

CENTRAL LOCKING WONT WORK, THE KEY DOES NOT OPEN THE DOORS LIGHT COMES ON TO SAY DOOR OPEN BUT THEY DON'T AND ALSO DRIVER DOOR OPENS WITH KEY THE INTERNAL BUTTON ALSO DOES NOT OPEN THE DOORS, INTERMITTENT FAULT. *TR

FAULTY PIN CONNECTORS IN REAR BRAKELIGHT ASSEMBLIES, CAUSING PREMATURE FAILURE OF BRAKE LIGHTING HARNESS, VERY DANGEROUS. *TR

BMW 325I REAR BLINKERS SHORTED OUT CAUSING ELECTRICAL WIRES TO BURN. WHILE DRIVING MY BMW A WARNING LIGHT ON MY CONSOLE TURNED ON INDICATING THE LEFT REAR BRAKE/BLINKER LIGHT(S) WENT OUT WHILE AT THE SAME TIME I SMELLED WIRING BURNING. I STOPPED THE CAR AND ALL MY LIGHTS SEEMED OK, SO I PRESUMED IT WAS A FAULTY SENSOR. A SHORT WHILE LATER WHILE DRIVING DOWN THE FREEWAY I PULLED INTO THE LEFT LANE AND REALLY PISSED THE DRIVER OFF BEHIND ME AND NEARLY CAUSED AN ACCIDENT. AT THIS MOMENT I NOTICED MY LEFT BLINKER WAS MAKING A FAST NOISE AS THOUGH THE LEFT BLINKER BULB(S) WAS OUT. I PULLED OVER A SECOND TIME TO CHECK MY BLINKERS, FEARING I WOULD CAUSE AN ACCIDENT, AND ALL MY FLASHERS, BRAKE LIGHTS AND BLINKERS WERE WORKING FINE. THE WARNING LIGHTS ON THE CONSOLE WENT ON AND OFF INTERMITTENTLY. I PURCHASED A NEW BULB HOPING THIS WOULD SOLVE THE PROBLEM, BUT EVERYTHING SEEMED OK AND FUNCTIONAL. WHEN I RETURNED FROM MY TRIP, I WAS TOLD BY TWO EUROPEAN AUTO SHOPS AND THE SERVICE MANAGER OF A BMW DEALERSHIP THAT BMW IS AWARE OF A GROUND PROBLEM WITH THE REAR LIGHT CLUSTER. WHEN I UNSNAPPED THE PLASTIC CONNECTION FROM THE REAR LIGHT CLUSTER, THE METAL PRONGS AND PLASTIC WERE MELTED AWAY. THE HEAT APPARENTLY WAS SO HOT, THE SOLID METAL PRONGS 1/4" LONG COMPLETELY MELTED INCLUDING THE PLASTIC CASING. A BMW DEALERSHIP EMPLOYEE TOLD ME THAT THIS ISSUE IS COMMON WHEN DRIVING IN THE CITY WHEN ONE IS USING THE BRAKES AND BLINKERS INCESSANTLY, PARTICULARLY IN HEAVY TRAFFIC. "THE GROUNDING WIRE ISN'T HEAVY ENOUGH TO WITHSTAND THE DEMAND FOR ELECTRICITY REQUIRED BY THE BRAKE AND BLINKER LIGHTS SIMULTANEOUSLY". THIS IS A KNOWN BMW DEFECT AND THIS CAN EASILY CAUSE AN ACCIDENT, AS IN MY CASE, NOT TO MENTION A LOT OF DRIVERS REALLY PISSED OFF WHEN I CUT IN FRONT OF THEM THINKING MY BLINKERS ARE WORKING. THIS IS AN ISSUE BMW SHOULD REPAIR! *TR

MY DASHBOARD PANEL SHOWED A WARNING LIGHT INDICATING THAT THE TAIL LIGHT WAS HAVING AN ISSUE. I WAS TOLD BY A SERVICE CENTER THAT THE TAIL LIGHT ASSEMBLY MAY GET HOT ENOUGH TO MELT THE PLASTIC IN THE HOUSING AND IT WILL HAVE TO BE REPLACED. UPON INSPECTION I FOUND THAT THE WIRE HARNESS HAD MELTED AND THE POWER SUPPLY WIRE FOR ONE OF THE LIGHTS HAD MELTED THE PLASTIC AND THE WIRE HAD COME FREE. ONCE FREE, IT ARCED TO THE CONNECTOR PIN ON THE BULB HOLDER ASSEMBLY AND DEGRADED THAT PIN UNTIL THE CONNECTION WAS LOST. ALL PLASTIC PIECES IN CONTACT WITH THE PARTS ARE MELTED AND BURNED. I CONTACTED THE BMW SERVICE CENTER AND WAS TOLD THAT THIS IS NOT A RECALL ISSUE AND I WAS RESPONSIBLE FOR REPLACING THESE PARTS. PICTURES ARE AVAILABLE OF THE PARTS. *TR

THERE IS A SERIOUS ELECTRICAL PROBLEM ON MANY BMW E46 MODELS (NEWER CARS). THE TAIL LIGHT HARNESS ON BOTH SIDES HAS WHAT SEEMS TO BE A FAULTY, INCOMPLETE, OR INSECURE GROUNDING WIRE AND THE RESULT IS THAT THE WIRE OVERHEATS AND CORRODES, AND IN SOME CASES ARCS, WHICH CAN IGNITE A FIRE. THE PROBLEM IS OFTEN IDENTIFIED BY INTERMITTENT OR PERSISTENT FAILURE OF THE REAR LIGHTS ON THE CAR AND/OR UNNECESSARY REAR LIGHT WARNINGS ON THE DASH. I HAVE PHOTOGRAPHS TO SUPPORT THIS CASE AND HAVE DONE FURTHER RESEARCH TO FIND COUNTLESS SIMILAR CASES. THE DAMAGE IS MOST OFTEN CHARACTERIZED BY CHARRED DISCOLORATION OF THE BROWN (GROUND) INSULATOR AND MELTING OF THE SURROUNDING PLASTICS WHICH RESULTS IN THE METAL CONNECTORS BECOMING LOOSE. THE REPAIR OF THE PROBLEM WOULD MOST LIKELY CONSIST OF AN UPGRADED REPLACEMENT OF THE WIRING HARNESS. FURTHER WORK INTO THE ELECTRICAL DISTRIBUTION SYSTEM MAY BE NECESSARY DEPENDING ON THE CAUSE OF THE FAULTY GROUND. *TR

TL*THE CONTACT OWNS A 2003 BMW 325I. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE WIRING HARNESS FOR BOTH TAIL LIGHTS HAVE SHORTENED OUT AND MELTED. SHE IS CONCERNED THAT THIS FAILURE COULD CAUSE HER VEHICLE TO CATCH FIRE. THE DEALER STATED THAT THIS IS A COMMON FAILURE AMONG THE 2001-2003 MODELS. THE CURRENT AND FAILURE MILEAGES WERE 57,200.