2010 Ford Focus UNKNOWN OR OTHER

CAR STALLS WHEN NO FUEL IS GIVEN, IE: AT RED LIGHT, STOP SIGN, EVEN JUST SLOWING DOWN WHILE MAKING A TURN. OCCURS ON CITY STREET AND HIGHWAY DURING STOP AND GO TRAFFIC. BROUGHT CAR INTO MECHANIC - DID DIAGNOSTIC, ETC. COULD FIND NOTHING TO CAUSE ENGINE TO DIE SUDDENLY. HAVE HAPPENED MULTIPLE TIMES. WAS INSTRUCTED TO CONTACT FORD DEALER.

I MADE AN APPOINTMENT WITH FORD HAD MY CAR TOWED OVER SO THEY CAN DO A DIAGNOSIS ON THE TRANSMISSION WHICH THEY CHARGED ME ME $110.00 DOLLARS AND.I HIGHLY DOUBT THEY EVEN CHECKED THE VEHICLE I HAD TO TOW IT BACK TO MY HOUSE. THEY TRIED CHARGING ME.$4000 FOR A NEW TRANSMISSION WHICH THEY ARE AWARE IT'S DEFECTIVE ON FOCUS AND FIESTA MODELS INSTEAD OF TELLING ME THAT THEY WENT AND LET ME SPEND $300 PLUS DOLLARS ON NOTHING I HAD TRIED TO CHANGE OUT TRANSMISSION OIL AND IT WORKED FOR A WHILE. I AM A COLLEGE STUDENT ON A GRANT. AND I FEEL FORD RISKED MY LIFE BY NOT INFORMING ME HOW BAD THE TRANSMISSION IS ON THIS VEHICLE PLUS ON MY SERVICE HISTORY THEY LIED AND SAID THEY SERVICED MY CAR WHICH IS NOT THE CASE.

TRANSMISSION PROBLEM IN MOTION 2 YEAR BACK AND SUDDENLY WAS GOING SLOW WITH FULL ACCELERATION ON I25.

"TAKATA RECALL" COMPUTER OR CLUSTER GIVES OFF SENOR LIGHTS AND IT'S NOT THE PROBLEM(SUCH AS EMERGENCY BRAKE ON, AND MANY MORE). A FORD DEALER HAS REPLACE, CLUSTER,WIRING HARNESS, CONTROL BOX AND DOES NOT FIX THE PROBLEM AND CLAIMS THEY CAN'T DO ANYMORE, BUT CALLED A FORD ENGINEER WHO DOES NOT RETURN CALLS, PER DEALER.

MY 2010 FORD FOCUS SES DOOR SYSTEM ISN'T WORKING OUT OF NO WHERE. SOMETIMES MY DOOR LOCKS WON'T LOCK, SOMETIMES THEY WON'T UNTIL TO THE POINT I CAN GET OUT OF MY CAR. THE OWNER BEFORE ALSO HAD THIS PROBLEM AND GOT THEM FIXED. NOW MY REAR DOOR WON'T OPEN AT ALL. A COUPLE PEOPLE I'VE TALKED TO THEY REPORT SIMILAR THINGS. THIS A HUGE SAFETY PROBLEM.. I HAVE A FOUR YEAR OLD IS SCARY KNOWING SOMETHING COULD HAPPENED I MIGHT NOT BE ABLE TO GET HER OUT BECAUSE OF THIS DOOR ISSUES. SINCE IT'S ALREADY BEEN FIXED, I'M NERVOUS TO FIX IT ALSO AND IT GOES BACK TO THIS.

MY REAR PASSENGER DOOR LOCK FAILED WHILE DRIVING, CAUSING THE DOOR TO SWING OPEN WHEN BRAKING.

NONE OF MY DOORS WILL OPEN FROM THE OUTSIDE I HAVE TO LEAVE A WINDOW CRACKED JUST TO GET IN IT HAD TO PAY SOMEBODY 140 JUST TO GET IN IT THERE IS ONLY TWO DOORS THAT WILL OPEN FROM THE INSIDE NOW I HAVE TWO KIDS THAT ARE STILL AT HOME YOU HAVE TO GO IN THE PASSENGER DOOR JUST TO GET IN THE DRIVER SEAT

I BELIEVE THESE TWO ITEMS ARE RELATED: WITHIN THE LAST YEAR OR MORE THE CAR DID NOT HAVE SMOOTH, CONSTANT ACCELERATION. THE VEHICLE SURGES SLIGHTLY OFF AND ON WHILE AT HIGHWAY SPEEDS REGARDLESS OF WHETHER THE CRUISE IS BEING USED OR NOT. WE TOOK IT TO FORD AND THEY CLEANED THE THROTTLE BODY HOWEVER THE PROBLEM REOCCURRED PERIODICALLY. ALSO, WITHIN THE LAST MONTH, THE VEHICLE STALLED TWICE ON DIFFERENT DAYS WHILE OPERATING AT HIGHWAY SPEED WITH NO INDICATION THAT IT WAS GOING TO HAPPEN. AT THE SAME TIME THE "WRENCH" LIGHT WOULD ILLUMINATE. THE VEHICLE WOULD START AFTER PULLING OVER AND CYCLING THE IGNITION. WE AGAIN TOOK IT TO A FORD WHO AGAIN CLEANED THE THROTTLE BODY. WERE TOLD THAT THEY WERE PRETTY SURE THE THROTTLE BODY NEEDS REPLACEMENT BUT THEY CANNOT REPLACE IT BECAUSE THE "WRENCH" LIGHT DOES NOT STAY ON LONG ENOUGH TO GIVE A CODE. WE WERE TOLD THAT WE CAN REPLACE IT AT OUR OWN COST BUT THEY WON'T REPLACE IT AT THEIR COST WITHOUT A CODE (WHICH DOES NOT REGISTER).

VEHICLE STALLED AT HIGHWAY SPEED WITHOUT WARNING. THE VEHICLE RESTARED AFTER CYCLING THE IGNITION.

MY 2010 FORD FOCUS THAT I BOUGHT BACK IN DECEMBER OF 2015 IS HAVING A LATCHING PROBLEM WITH THE BACK PASSENGER DOOR. IT WILL NOT LATCH SHUT WHEN PARKED. TRIED GREASING THE LATCH BUT IT DIDN'T HELP. THIS HAS BEEN GOING ON SINCE I PURCHASED THE CAR.

THE BACK DOORS LOCK AND U CAN'T UNLOCK THEM NO MATTER WHAT U DO SOMETIMES THE FRONT PASSENGERS DOOR WILL LOCK TO BUT THAT ONE U CAN UNLOCK BY PULLING HANDLE WHAT HAPPENS IF MY LITTLE ONES ARE IN THE BACK AND I CAN'T GET TO THEM THIS IS NOT SAFE OR SMART

PARKED PUT SHIFT IN REVERSE. CAR DIES AND WRENCH LIGHT COMES ON 8-10 TRIES RECENTLY.

I HAVE COMPLAINED ABOUT MY DOOR LOCKS ON THE BACK OF MY CAR FOR THE LAST TWO AND A HALF TO THREE YEARS AND NO ONE LISTENS TO ME. IT IS A SAFETY HAZARD FOR ME AND MY GRANDCHILDREN. I CAN'T TAKE THEM WITH ME BECAUSE THE LOCKS DON'T UNLOCK. NOT A SAFE THING IF A ACCIDENT HAPPENED. COULDN'T GET ANYONE OUT OF BACK SEAT. PLEASE HELP ME. I KNOW I'M NOT THE ONLY ONE WITH THIS.

AIR CONDITIONER FAILING TO COOL. MY CAR HAS 33,000 MILES ON IT. I BOUGHT IT NEW IN OCT 2009. I AM TOLD IT WILL BE ABOUT $1,600 OR MORE TO REPAIR THE AC. THIS IS NOT ACCEPTABLE ON A CAR WITH 33,000 MILES ON IT. I AM TOLD THE DASH, STEERING COLUMN AND CONSOLE HAVE TO BE REMOVED TO REPAIR. I BOUGHT THIS CAR TO LAST ME THE REST OF MY LIFE. THE FACTORY WARRANTY IS FOR 36,000 WHICH OBVIOUSLY I AM UNDER BUT IT IS FIVE YEARS OLD. I CAN'T AFFORD TO FIX IT ON MY SS DISABILITY INCOME AND CAN'T LIVE IN TEXAS WITHOUT AC.

DOOR LOCKS WORKING INTERMITTENT TO A POINT OF NOT UNLOCKING ALL TOGETHER. PASSENGER DOORS WILL NOT OPEN, FROM THE INSIDE, WHEN THE DOOR IS LOCKED, WITH CHILD PROTECTION LOCK DISENGAGED. THIS IS A DANGEROUS SITUATION IF A FIRE OR TRAFFIC ACCIDENT SHOULD OCCUR. CHECKED ONLINE AND NUMEROUS COMPLAINTS OF THE SAME ISSUE EXISTS ON FORD PRODUCTS.

THE REAR PASSENGER DOOR LATCH HAD BEEN STICKING ON OCCASION, MAKING IT DIFFICULT TO OPEN THE DOOR WITH THE OUTSIDE HANDLE. IN MID-MAY, WE BEGAN HAVING TROUBLE GETTING THE DOOR TO LATCH WHEN BEING SHUT. AT TIMES IT WOULD LATCH AFTER SEVERAL TRIES, OR WHEN BEING SLAMMED EXTREMELY HARD. IN MID-JULY, THE LATCH STOPPED WORKING ALL TOGETHER. WE NOW HAVE THE DOOR STRAPPED SHUT FROM THE INSIDE MAKING IT IMPOSSIBLE TO DRIVE THIS CAR WHEN TAKING MORE THAN ONE PASSENGER, AND THE DOOR AJAR ALARM SOUNDS EACH TIME YOU TURN A CORNER.

SUSPECT THROTTLE BODY CONTROL. WRENCH LIGHT WARNING INDICATOR CAME ON. VEHICLE WOULD NOT ACCELERATE. COULD HERE ENGINE REV BUT WOULD NOT GO FASTER. PULLED TO SIDE OF THE ROAD. STOPPED CAR. CHECKED FLUIDS. ALL FLUIDS FINE. WAITED 10 MINUTES. RESTARTED CAR. CAR FINE. WRENCH LIGHT CONTINUES TO REAPPEAR AFTER 10 TO 15 MINUTES OF DRIVING. GOES AWAY AFTER CAR OFF FOR SEVERAL MINUTES THEN RESTARTED. *TT

IN MEDIUM/HEAVY RUSH HOUR TRAFFIC, THE ENGINE SPEED BEGAN TO RISE WHILE THE VEHICLE WAS COASTING (FOOT OFF THE ACCELERATOR) IN 3RD GEAR. I SHIFTED INTO NEUTRAL, APPLIED THE BRAKES AND WAS ABLE TO AVOID STRIKING THE CAR IN FRONT OF ME, BUT THE ENGINE SPEED CONTINUED TO CLIMB. A BLIP OF THE THROTTLE EVENTUALLY HALTED THE ENGINE SPEED RISE AND THE RPMS SLOWLY RETURNED TO NORMAL. THE VEHICLE SEEMED TO RUN NORMALLY FOR THE FOLLOWING COUPLE MINUTES AND I WAS ABLE TO EXIT THE FREEWAY SAFELY, STOP AND RESTART THE CAR. AFTER A QUICK EXAMINATION, I FOUND NOTHING IN THE DRIVER'S FOOTWELL THAT COULD'VE INTERFERED WITH THE PEDAL'S OPERATION. THIS IS THE SECOND OCCURRENCE IN WHICH THE VEHICLE HAS ACCELERATED ON ITS OWN VOLITION. THE FIRST INCIDENT HAPPENED WITH CRUISE CONTROL ENGAGED ON A RURAL STRETCH OF INTERSTATE. I STOPPED THE VEHICLE BY SHIFTING INTO NEUTRAL, QUICKLY PULLING OVER TO THE SHOULDER AND TURNING OFF THE IGNITION. AT THE TIME I ASSUMED IT WAS A TEMPORARY MALFUNCTION WITH THE CRUISE CONTROL SYSTEM; THE CAR ACTED NORMALLY AFTER BEING RESTARTED. DURING THIS MOST RECENT INCIDENT, HOWEVER, THE CRUISE CONTROL WASN'T ENGAGED AT ANY TIME DURING THE TRIP.

AFTER PURCHASING CAR PAINT CAME OFF UNDER PASSANGER FRONT DOOR ,ABOUT AN INCH LONG AND 1/4 WIDE. AT 32000 MILES PAINT WAS COMING OFF OF HOOD 1 INCH WIDE AND 1 INCH LONG. *TT

I WAS GOING TO E. GRAND RIVER @ POSTED SPEED OTHER CAR MADE LEFT TURN FAILING TO YIELD AND STRUCK INTO MY CAR, WENT OVER CURB AND STRUCK BRICK FOUNDATION. MY RIGHT HAND BONE BROKE, HAD SURGERY TO FIX. MY 2010 FOCUS IS TOTALED.

2010 FORD FOCUS SE DRIVER'S SIDE FLOOR MAT IS NOT PROPERLY AND SECURELY RETAINED IN POSITION AND MAY SLIDE UP AND UNDER THE ACCELERATOR PEDAL CAUSING "STUCK" PEDAL CONDITION. THE RETENTION SYSTEM CONSISTS OF 2 POSTS MOUNTED IN THE CARPET AND 2 CORRESPONDING HOLES IN THE MAT. MOST OTHER CARS USE A METAL HOOK IN THE CARPET THAT CLIPS TO A HOLE IN THE MAT. THE FOCUS MAT RETENTION POSTS IN THE CARPET ARE NOT STRONG ENOUGH TO HOLD THE MAT IN POSITION. THE MAT EASILY COMES OFF THE POSTS DURING EXIT OF THE VEHICLE AND THEN MIGRATES UP THE FLOOR KICK DURING FUTURE INGRESS AND EGRESS. THERE WAS NO INCIDENT IN MY SITUATION BUT TODAY I HAD TO PULL THE MAT DOWN WHEN IT HAD MIGRATED UP THE FLOOR KICK TO ALMOST TOUCHING THE PEDAL MOUNTING FRAME. IF THE MAT "ROLLED UP", IT COULD CATCH AND HOLD THE PEDAL AND NOT RELEASE WHEN THE DRIVER REMOVES HIS FOOT. TW*