2011 Honda CR-V Electrical System

DOOR LOCK ACTUATOR. It is constantly malfunctioning. You are driving with small kids, and the doors keep unlocking and locking as the vehicle is in motion. I am very concerned, especially with children inside. It gets to a point that it sounds like a machine gun while you are driving, so, if you forget about it, suddenly you hear the loud noise and you think there is a drive by shooting nearby. There was a class action lawsuit regarding this a few years ago and a recall on this part. Today I locked my car after I parked and went into my house, suddenly I heard this horn noise on and off by itself without touching the key or the fob. I find this extremely dangerous. Let's say you get trapped inside your car and suddenly you cannot get out. I looked a little dipper and found out that Honda did not want to fix this issue. This is unacceptable and very unfair. Is there something someone can do to remediate it?

The contact owns a 2011 Honda CR-V. The contact stated that while driving at an undisclosed speed, the vehicle stalled with the check engine warning light illuminated. The vehicle was able to restart. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic, where it was diagnosed that a wiring harness had failed and needed to be replaced. The vehicle was not repaired. The vehicle was taken to the dealer but was not diagnosed or repaired. The manufacturer was not made aware of the failure. The approximate failure mileage was 170,000.

I'm driving along and the car door locks don't recognize that there already locked. They keep going off. The car is shut off and the door locks keep going off and the dom light keeps coming on every time the doors lock even though they are already locked. I couldn't get out of my car the other day because of this. I know now why someone sold it to the dealer ship. I've had the car a couple of months and I'm ready to sell it. I don't feel safe. Also the navigation date will not stay on the current day of 2024. It keeps rebooting back to Feb 2005. I bought it July 25, 2024 for $14,835. Apparently, I'm not the only car out there that has this problem. Why is this not being fixed. It is a SAFETY HAZARD TO GET LOCKED IN YOUR VEHICLE AND CANT GET OUT. I HAD TO CALL ROAD SIDE ASST. This is unacceptable when I pay this kind of money for a vehicle.

Sporadically the passenger rear door and trunk will lock (then unlock randomly) and there’s no getting them unlocked using the fob nor using the unlock button. The door simply has to unlock itself and the only way to get the trunk opened (till it decides to unlock itself) is to crawl thru the backseat and pull the inside lever.

My driver door and my back hatchback door would not open or unlock. I tried the actual key in the drivers door would not open and I tried two different remotes & neither would open the driver door or the back hatchback. I’m having to replace the actuator in both doors at this time!

The doors are automatically locking at 9 MPH while driving - when you initially pull out and meet the speed of 9 MPH AND then every time thereafter your speed is 9 MPH the doors will all lock. Passenger door and now rear hatch door does not unlock using the key remote OR the inside button to unlock. Currently all other doors are working.

Actuator that controls locks has gone out twice in 3 years. It is approximately $500 to replace. Vehicle randomly locks itself over and over when powered on or off. Sometimes power locks will not unlock any doors including the hatch.

At the beginning of the current year, 2002, the date displayed on the navigation system reverted to 2002 and the time changed to an incorrect time. No DIY user solutions have worked to fix these software issues. Honda has reported these issues in a number of vehicle models and claim they will "self-correct" eight months (August, 2022) from now.

Honda Nav system reverted to 2002 and can be reset to correct date and time. System not getting online updates from sat in a timely manor. It appears to also be causing issues with on line CPU - on dash mileage reports on gas consumption will bounce from 5 MPG to 70MPG then may stay stable for a while.

The door lock actuator has malfunctioned in my 2011 Honda CRV and this is not covered under a recall or warranty. This has caused my vehicle doors to not be able to open as well, my hatch will not unlock to enable me to open that. There was no warning or any other symptoms prior. From a safety perspective, if I were to be in an accident and have passengers in my vehicle, they would be unable to exit the vehicle if they were in the backseat of my vehicle. Also, how do I know that this won't eventually affect the drivers door which will then cause me to not be able to exit the vehicle in the event of an emergency.

IT APPEARS HONDA HAS A KNOWN DEFECT CONCERNING THE DRIVER DOOR LOCKING AND UNLOCKING MECHANISM AND THEY CHOOSE TO MAKE THE CONSUMER RESPONSIBLE FOR THE COST OF REPAIR AND IF DAMAGE CAUSED BY THEIR EFFORTS TO REPAIR THE CUSTOMER'S RESPONSIBILITY.THANKFULLY THE 1,800 QUOTE TO REPLACE THE DOOR PANEL WAS AVOIDED; HOWEVER, I WAS CHARGED $839.74 (391.15 PARTS AND 360 FOR LABOR AT DUVAL HONDA). THE DRIVER DOOR WOULD NOT UNLOCK, WHICH EFFECTED THE TRUNK INABILITY TO OPEN AND I HAD TO GET IN AND OUT BY LEAVING THE PASSENGER SIDE UNLOCKED AND MANUALLY UNLOCKING THE PASSENGER SIDE TO GET IN AND OUT OF THE 2011 CRV-EX. IF I WASN'T FLEXIBLE I WOULD HAVE BEEN TRAPPED IN MY OWN CAR, WHICH IS A SAFETY ISSUE. IT IS DISAPPOINTING OF HONDA'S LACK OF ACCOUNTABILITY.

I'M LEAVING TARGET A BASKET FULL OF GROCERIES AROUND 7 PM MARCH 13-2021, USING MY KEY THROB AND KEY HOLE ON THE DOOR I WAS UNSUCCESSFUL UNLOCKING THE DOOR OR TRUNK. I MANAGED TO UNLOCK THE PASSENGER DOOR TO GET OVER TO THE DRIVER SIDE DOOR TO MANUALLY TRY TO OPEN THE DOOR AND THE LOCK DID NOT MOVE. I SCHEDULED AN APPOINTMENT 3-23-2019 THE DEALERSHIP I PURCHASED THE CRV AND THEY DID NOT SEEM TO BE AWARE OF MY DOOR ISSUE BEING COMMON AND I WAS NEVER INFORMED DURING ANY OF MY SERVICE APPOINTMENTS WITH THEM. I SPOKE WITH NEAL THE SERVICE DEPT DIRECTOR AND WAS TOLD THE WARRANTY FOR MY CAR ENDED IN 2017 SO I AM RESPONSIBLE FOR MY REPAIRS. MY SERVICE ADVISOR CHARGES $60 FOR DIAGNOSIS, THEN CALLS BACK AND SAYS THE COST JUST WENT UP TO $150 BECAUSE THEY WERE HAVING A HARD TIME OPENING THE DOOR, THEN STATES THEY WILL HAVE TO KEEP MY CAR ANOTHER DAY AND THAT I WOULD BE RESPONSIBLE FOR REPAIRS OF A NEW DOOR PANEL IF THEY DAMAGE IT IN THEIR EFFORT TO OPEN THE DOOR AND THAT THE COST WOULD BE $1,800. I NEED MY TRANSPORTATION, MY CAR IS PAID IN FULL, I'M UNDERSTANDING WHY THEY CHOSE NOT TO REVEAL OR BE DUMBFOUNDED WHEN I MENTIONED ACCORDING TO THE LAWSUIT IT WAS TO REPAIR THE DOORS RATHER YOU WERE EXPERIENCING THE PROBLEM OR NOT. IT'S THEIR PRODUCT BUT THEY DON'T WANT ACCOUNTABILITY FOR A KNOWN ISSUE. I DROVE HOME WITH MY WINDOWS DOWN IN CASE I NEEDED TO CLIMB OUT THE WINDOW. I WAS HAVING AN ANXIETY ATTACK AFRAID I WOULD BE TRAPPED IN MY CAR INSIDE OR OUTSIDE. NEAL SAYS IT WASN'T A SAFETY ISSUE SO IT WAS AN EXTENDED WARRANTY VS A RECALL. IT IS DEFINITELY A SAFETY ISSUE ON SO MANY LEVELS. I'M JUST SURPRISED I NEVER KNEW ABOUT THE ISSUE UNTIL I STARTED EXPERIENCING THE PROBLEM.

INTERMITTEN NOISES FROM THE RIGHT REAR LOCK MOTOR/WINDOW WHILE DRIVING.

DOOR LOCK ACUATOR. DOORS LOCK AND UNLOCK RAPIDLY WHILE DRIVING DOWN THE ROAD.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2011 HONDA CR-V. THE CONTACT STATED THAT DURING COLD WEATHER THE VEHICLE WOULD NOT START. THE FAILURE OCCURRED WITHOUT WARNING. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO THE DEALER WHERE IT WAS DIAGNOSED THAT VEHICLE NEEDED A NEW BATTERY. THE VEHICLE WAS REPAIRED HOWEVER THE FAILURE RECURRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS APPROXIMATELY 25,000. UPDATED 03/01/17*LJ *CN

RODENTS CAUSED EXTENSIVE DAMAGE TO MY CAR CAUSING OVER $4,000 WORTH OF DAMAGE TO MY CAR. MY INSURANCE COVERED MOST OF THE COST AND I ONLY HAD TO PAY $500 DEDUCTIBLE. RODENTS ALSO CAUSED DAMAGE TO MY HOME WHICH WAS ALSO VERY EXPENSIVE. I HAD TO HAVE MY ATTIC INSULATION REPLACED, MY DISHWASHER NEEDS TO BE REPLACED AND NUMEROUS KITCHEN PLUMBING PROBLEMS.

VEHICLE IN MOTION IN ALL ACCOUNTS. TPMS WARNING LIGHT INTERMITTENTLY ON AND OFF SIGNALING FAULTY TIRE PRESSURE MONITORING SYSTEM. CENTRAL COMPUTER REPLACED. AGAIN TPMS WARNING LIGHT INTERMITTENTLY CAME ON AND OFF. 3 WHEEL SENSORS SUBSEQUENTLY REPLACED. AGAIN TPMS WARNING LIGHT INTERMITTENTLY CAME ON AND OFF. TOLD BY DEALER THERE IS SIGNAL OF FAILURE TO TRANSMIT TO REAR SENSORS IN HISTORY - HOWEVER SYSTEM FUNCTIONING NORMALLY AT THIS TIME AND THERE IS NOTHING THEY CAN DO NOW. THEY RECOMMENDED NOT PLUGGING ANY PHONE CHARGERS OR ANYTHING ELSE INTO THE CAR POWER JACKS THAT COULD CAUSE INTERFERENCE. THIS SOUNDS LIKE OVERALL FAULTY ELECTRICAL SYSTEM TO ME.

AUTOMATIC DOOR LOCKS HAVE FAILED ON NUMEROUS OCCASIONS. ALL 4 DOORS ARE AFFECTED AT DIFFERENT TIMES, BUT DEALER COULD ONLY REPLICATE ONE DOOR FAILURE. I AM REPORTING ONLY THE MOST RECENT FAILURE DATE BUT THIS HAS BEEN INTERMITTENT PROBLEM FOR 3 YEARS.

THIS CAR HAS KILLED 6 BATTERIES IN 5 YEARS. THE DEALER JUST KEEPS SAYING EVERYTHING IS FINE, BUT IT FREQUENTLY NEEDS JUMP STARTS AND BATTERY REPLACEMENTS. THERE IS NO PATTERN AS TO WEATHER CONDITIONS, JUST FREQUENT FAILURES AT DIFFERENT TIMES OF YEAR. I AM REPORTING THE MOST RECENT OCCURRENCE, BUT IT HAS HAPPENED MANY TIMES IN 5 YEARS. MY SON HAS BEEN STRANDED MANY TIMES.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2011 HONDA CR-V. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE DOOR LOCKS FAILED AND THE LOCKS ENGAGED INDEPENDENTLY. THE FAILURE OCCURRED NUMEROUS TIMES. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT DIAGNOSED OR REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE VIN WAS NOT AVAILABLE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 42,000.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2011 HONDA CR-V. IN COLD WEATHER, THE VEHICLE FAILED TO START. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO A DEALER WHERE IT WAS DIAGNOSED THAT THE BATTERY NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. THE VEHICLE WAS REPAIRED; HOWEVER, THE FAILURE PERSISTED. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN BACK TO THE DEALER WHERE THE DIAGNOSIS WAS THE SAME, BUT THE DEALER REFUSED TO PROVIDE A REPLACEMENT BATTERY. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 17,000. THE VIN WAS NOT PROVIDED.

WHEN I UNLOCK MY CAR WITH THE KEY FOB MY DOOR LOCKS IMMEDIATELY BY ITSELF. MOST RECENTLY MY PASSENGER SIDE DOOR WILL NOT LOCK. WHEN I LOCKED IT WITH THE KEY I WAS ABLE TO GET IT TO STAY LOCKED. HOWEVER WHEN I RETURNED TO UNLOCK MY CAR I WAS LOCKED OUT . NO DOORS WOULD UNLOCK! I HAD TO USE THE KEY FOB AND PUSH UNLOCK WHILE THE KEY WAS INSERTED IN THE LOCK. I CAN HEAR THEM CLICKING RANDOMLY WHILE DRIVING. THERE WAS S CLASS ACTION SETTLEMENT BUT OF COURSE THE DEADLINE TO MAKE A CLAIM WAS NOV OF 2015. MY LOCKS JUST STARTED THIS ISSUE 2WEEKS AGO. YOU WOULD THINK IF IT'S AN ISSUE FOR CERTAIN YEARS AND MODELS THAT HONDA WOULD MAKE IT RIGHT!!

REAR PASSENGER DOOR LOCK (LEFT SIDE). DOOR WILL NOT LOCK, EITHER MANUALLY OR WITH KEY FOB. MIGHT BE A PROBLEM WITH THE ACTUATOR. REAR DOOR LOCK STARTED MAKING SOME CLICKING NOISES (LIKE IT WAS STUCK) THE PAST MONTH WHEN ALL OTHER DOORS WOULD AUTO-LOCK. NOW IT NO LONGER WORKS AND REMAINS UNLOCKED. THIS IS A HAZARD WITH CHILDREN IN THE BACK.

FRONT PASSENGER SIDE DOOR CANNOT BE LOCKED USING THE KEY FOB OR THE CENTRAL LOCK BUTTON ON THE DRIVER'S SIDE. THE ONLY WAY TO LOCK/UNLOCK IT IS TO DO IT MANUALLY. THE TRUNK CANNOT BE UNLOCKED IF THE FRONT PASSENGER SIDE DOOR IS LOCKED. TRUNK CAN ONLY BE UNLOCKED WHEN THE FRONT PASSENGER SIDE DOOR IS UNLOCKED.

DRIVER DOOR LOCK STOPPED WORKING AND COULD ONLY BE OPERATED MANUALLY. ALL OTHER DOOR LOCKS WORK FINE WITH THE POWER LOCK BUTTON AND KEY FOB. THIS HAS BEEN AN ISSUE WI PREVIOUS YEARS OF THEIRS SAME MAKE AND MODEL. *TR