2016 Subaru Crosstrek UNKNOWN OR OTHER

Our 2016 Subaru Crosstrek (Automatic Transmission) has had intermittent issues with it losing power despite our foot being on the accelerator. It will typically reengage if we take our foot off the accelerator for a bit and then hit the gas again. However, it has become a more frequent problem and feels increasingly unsafe to drive, particularly with our 2 small children in the car, because it loses power without warning so it leaves us vulnerable for being rear-ended while changing lanes, taking turns, etc. We have been working with our local dealership (Beyer Subaru in Alexandria, VA) to address the issue, but they have only been able to replicate the issue once in a 4-week period and they have not been able to document it. The one time they were able to replicate the problem the car was not hooked up to any computer/system. I have found this forum that documents similar problems with Crosstreks - [XXX] , as well as a Service Bulletin which references a similar issue in 2018-21MY Crosstrek 2.0L MT - https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2021/MC-10201030-0001.pdf. While the 2nd does refer specifically to Manual Transmissions, I feel like this is indicative of a trend that is not being acknowledged for other Model Year's and transmission types, but presents a serious safety issue.  INFORMATION REDACTED PURSUANT TO THE FREEDOM OF INFORMATION ACT (FOIA), 5 U.S.C. 552(B)(6)

I have a 2016 Subaru Crosstrek 5 speed manual transmission and it only has 64000 on it. The clutch went out and I took it to the dealership to have the car worked on and hopefully repaired. At first they said it was the clutch and master cylinder. Then they called me back and said the entire transmission needed to be replaced and it would cost $9000! Seriously? At only 64000 miles? Somehow some kind of "snout" broke off and they needed to replace the whole thing. Blue Book on this car is only slightly over $9000 and I need to spend what it is worth to repair? I may never own another subaru ever again if this is what happens at such a low mileage.

While driving down the highway, the hood popped open and slammed backwards, shattering my windshield, damaging both fenders (to the point where the hood could not be lowered back down), and wrinkling the roof. I was in the middle lane and had to navigate blindly over to the shoulder, while covered in glass; miraculously, I was able to do so safely. It is a miracle I was not hurt or killed and that others around me were not hurt or killed. There was very real potential for a multi car pile up that day. I'm not aware of reproduction or confirmation of the problem. Police responded, but stated since I did not hit anything, there would be no accident report. My insurance inspected the vehicle at least twice, as did my mechanic throughout the course of his estimation and repair. At my last oil change at the dealership (months prior), the desk agent mentioned the auto techs had a hard time getting my hood closed but recommended no further service to me.

Driving down the freeway I had cruise control set. All of the sudden the cruise control shut off and it was like the car was in neutral. When I pushed on the gas it just revved I was able to coast to an exit and right before the top of the hill, all the indicator lights went on and the car shut off. I had the vehicle towed to a Subaru dealership the next morning when they went to work on the car, the car started fine. They were unable to find anything wrong with the vehicle when they plugged it into the computer. My gas levels were low, but I still showed 90 miles to empty.

I have a 2016 Crosstrek. It hestitates when you start after a stop. I have taken it to the dealership. They feel the hesitation but do not know what the problem is. The cost they estimated to fix was over $1,000, BUT with no guarantee they could fix it because they do not know what the problem is. It is not the fuel. After looking online Subaru problems, this seems to be a problem with Subaru. The safety issue, I am afraid of, when you are at a busy intersection and start to pull out in traffic what if the car stalls. It hasn't stalled yet, so far just hesitating upon initial acceleration.

In October 2020, the OEM transmission on my 2016 Subaru Crosstrek failed at 87,500 miles. The transmission was covered under a recent extension of the warranty from 60,000 to 100,000 miles. See website info regarding extended warranty: https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2018/MC-10146475-9999.pdf After driving the "new" transmission for 18 months and 40,000 miles, the transmission failed again. This time, Subaru America refused, at first, to admit any fault. They initially offered $1000 for replacement, then increased to $3500 as a final offer. My out of pocket was $4710. Now, after 8 months and less than 12,000 miles, the transmission has failed AGAIN. This transmission is under a 1 year/unlimited miles warranty. This will be the 4th transmission in a vehicle with 143,000 miles on it.

Sunroof exploded - driving on interstate at about 75 miles an hour, Sunday around 11:30a, temperature around 80 degrees, no flying debris, heard something like a small explosion and then shattered car glass blowing along roof. Pulled over to see the sunroof looked like it had blown up and out leaving hole about a foot wide. The interior ceiling panel had been closed so I couldn't see it from the inside, no damage to the interior panel that I could see. The car had been parked under my car port overnight, I'd been on the road about 15-20 minutes, no drastic changes in weather and no sounds from roof before explosion. No apparent damage to car/roof prior to explosion.

My horn does not works when wheels are straight. If I turn the steering wheel to either side horn works. No fuse or solenoid problem; I replaced both.

The key will not come out of the ignition when placing the car in park! We have to fiddle with the shifter to get the key to release. Contacted the dealer and Subaru of America to see if this could be fixed as a recall, unfortunately it is a service bulletin as of now and costs >$500 to fix this known problem that occurred on a vehicle with 50K miles! This is unacceptable and would like it fixed at no charge.

Key gets stuck in ignition when vehicle is in park. The key will go to the on position but cannot be pulled out. You must turn the car back on and go into drive and reverse and park again to try and get the key to come out. Sometimes this does not work and you must do so again.

WHILE DRIVING ON THE HWY APPROX 1.5 HRS TRAVELING 75 MPH AND 60 MILES OF GAS LEFT IN TANK THE VEHICLE CUT OFF.. I COASTED INTO THE EMERGENCY LANE AND SHUT OFF VEH. NO WARNING LIGHTS GIVEN OR OUT OF FUEL. RE-STARTED THE VEHICLE AND DROVE WITHOUT ISSUES TO THE NEXT EXIT, FILLED THE TANK AND CONTINUED ANOTHER 45 MIN TO HOME WITHOUT ISSUE. SINCE, IVE ONLY DRIVEN SHORT DISTANCES TO AND FROM WORK AND ERRANDS W/O ISSUES. AFRAID IT WILL HAPPEN AGAIN AND CONCERNED ABOUT ANY FUTURE ROAD TRIPS. DO TO NO WARNING OR REPAIR LIGHTS AND THE VEH DRIVING W/O ISSUE, I DON'T KNOW WHERE TO BEGIN. I JUST WANT TO FEEL SAFE DRIVING MY VEHICLE FURTHER THAN HOME

IGNITION KEY CANNOT BE REMOVED FROM IGNITION AND CAR REMAINS ON UNTIL IT CAN BE REMOVED.THIS HAPPENS AFTER PLACING THE CAR IN PARK. CHANGING TO ANOTHER KEY DOES NOT CHANGE THE PROBLEM. AN INTERNET SEARCH AND THE CAR DEALERSHIP NOTE THAT IS A COMMON PROBLEM IN SUBARU'S.

KEY GETS STUCK IN IGNITION WHEN IN PARK AND HARD TO GET OUT. HAVE TO START THE VEHICLE, SHIFT AND TRY AGAIN FOR IT TO COME OUT.

A/C COMPRESSOR HAS FAILED AND THE CAR HAS LESS THAN 80K MILES.

KEY STUCK IN IGNITION SWITCH WHILE IN PARK AND DOES NOT WANT TO COME OUT.

2016 SUBARU CROSSTREK DRIVING WENT TO PARK KEY GOT STUCK IN IGNITION COULD NOT TAKE IT OUT CANT UNDERSTAND WHY SO MANY PROBLEMS AND NO RECALLS

OUT OF GAS WITH 3 BARS SHOWING...TWICE *TR *BF*JB

CAR IS PARKED AND KEY IS STUCK IN IGNITION TO REMOVE IT.

KEY GETS STUCK IN IGNITION AFTER VEHICLE SHUT OFF. CAN NOT BE REMOVED UNTIL TRYING TO SHIFT GEAR. SEEMS LIKE IT IS NOT GOING INTO PARK. STARTED AUGUST 8, 2019 AND EVERY DAY SINCE.

THREE YEAR OLD CAR AND HORN DOESN'T WORK ,,,

KEY GETS STUCK IN THE IGNITION. SEVERITY INCREASES WITH OUTSIDE AIR TEMPERATURE AND DRIVE TIME. KEY HAS BEEN UNABLE TO BE REMOVED ON TWO OCCASIONS. REPEATED VISITS TO THE DEALERSHIP HAS RESULTED IN NO LONG TERM FIXES. THIS IS AN ON GOING ISSUE SINCE FEB 2019. THIS RESULTS IN A CAR IN PARK, THAT CAN NOT BE LOCKED, WITH A KEY THAT CAN BE TURNED ON AND USED BY ANYONE WHO OPENS THE DOOR AND SITS IN THE DRIVERS SEAT.

MY WIFE WAS JUST GETTING ON THE FREEWAY WHEN THE SUNROOF EXPLODED AND SHATTERED GLASS ALL THROUGH THE CAR. NOTHING HIT THE CAR AND THERE WAS NO WEATHER CONDITIONS, IT WAS SUNNY AND 68 DEGREES IN BOISE, ID.

WHEN GETTING OUT OF THE VEHICLE KEY IS ALWAYS STUCK EVEN IF THE SHIFTER IS ON PARK MODE, HAD TO RESTART THE ENGINE AND PUSH THE SHIFTER WITH FORCE TO RELEASE THE KEY.

THE KEY IS STUCK IN THE IGNITION AFTER PLACING THE CAR IN PARK AND TURNING THE ENGINE OFF. THE CAR DOES NOT RECOGNIZE THAT IT IS IN PARK SO IT WON'T RELEASE THE KEY FROM THE IGNITION. WE TOOK THE CAR IN FOR THE BREAK LIGHT SWITCH RECALL AND IT STARTED HAPPENING THE NEXT WEEK.

I MADE SEVERAL COMPLAINTS ABOUT THE CAR NOT STARTING, TOO MUCH OIL CONSUMPTION ETC...THEN ON NOVEMBER 11, 2018, AT 3.42PM I WAS DRIVING ON HIGHWAY 87 WHEN CAR STOPPED SUDDENLY, SMOKE CAME OUT AND FLAMES. IT BURNED DOWN IN 15 MINUTES. POLICE AND FIRE DEPARTMENT CAME TO TURN THE FIRE DOWN. THE CAR IS TOTAL LOSS. I COULD HAVE DIED