2013 Chevrolet Cruze UNKNOWN OR OTHER

Have been told it’s the catalytic converter but when driving it loses power and stalls. It has almost caused wrecks. Ever since I got this vehicle it’s been one thing after another and the more I look online about the issues with my vehicle, the more I realize that thousands and thousands of Chevy Cruze owners are having the same issues. I’ve had to put two oxygen sensors on it since having it, replaced the turbo, spark plugs, all kinds of parts on this vehicle. They clearly did not make this vehicle safe or reliable

For the last couple of months my Chevy Cruze LT 1.4L turbo engine has been having severe cooling issues making my car overheat in a little amount of time. I drive 20 minutes back and forth to work and everytime I get to work or get home from work I find myself having to fill up with antifreeze again and again and again. I’ve replaced the water pump and multiple hoses. And now I have to replace more hoses.

My coolant is leaking again. I have been having headache. I didn’t know that it was leaking again. I repaired last before this incident. Nov 2021. Something is wrong.

CHECK ENGINE LIGHT IS ON STATING ISSUE WITH TURBO. THIS IS A KNOWN ISSUE YET GM IS COVERING SOME BUT NOT MINE. PER GM MY VIN IS NOT PART OF THE RECALL YET I AM HAVING THE ISSUE.

Vehicle overheats and cuts off. Vehicle does not retain coolant Vehicle does not accelerate. Throttle body has been changed 2x in 6 months. My daughter has been left in the dark while vehicle sparked while overheating.

The dealership sold my family this vehicle that has been a total loss since 2018. My understanding on why it has a green title is because someone paid out of pocket to cover the repairs. It has also been in 2 other accidents in 2020. The dealership did not make us aware of it and have been avoiding my contact.

Chevrolet has issued a recall on the Chevy Cruze for antifreeze that has been known to leak at the thermostat housing. My is doing that which is causing it to over heat. I contact them and they said my car don have that issue mean while I drive 2 blocks it starts to over heat.

CAR CONTINUALLY OVER HEATS AND NOW THE TURBO BAD

There is a consistent plastic burning smell, usually when the AC or heater is on. I have replaced the AC unit, and this still happens. Smoke sometimes appears on the driver's side through the vents. I have taken the vehicle in a few times for this, and they can never find anything. The last repairs I had done replaced wires, pipes, and connectors.

TOOK CAR IN FOR OVERHEATING AFTER HAVING HI TEMP WORNING COME ON. CHECKED COOLANT LEVELS IT WAS LOW. DEAL REPARED CAR PER RECALL. UNFORTUNITLY MOTOR WAS DAMAGED DO TO OVER HEATING. DEALER RETURNED CAR WITH BAD MOTOR AFTER TESTING FOR HIDROCARBONS. CHARGED ME $800 EVEN WITH RECALL PARTS PROVIDED. CAR IS STILL UNDRIVABLE DO TO WATERPUMP LEAK. WHERE DO I GO FROM HERE? LEMON LAW? DEALER WORK NOT PREFORMED? PLEASE ADVISE.

WHENEVER I REFUEL MY CAR I HAVE TO REV THE ENGINE FOR A COUPLE MINUTES OTHERWISE THE CAR WILL DIE.

FIRST THE WATER PUMP HAD TO BE REPLACED, THEN THE TURBO COILS HAD TO BE REPLACED $740, THEN THE SURGE TANK AND NOW THEY ARE SAYING MORE LEAKS AND WANTED TO DO SOME TEST THAT COST $65. SOMETHING IS NOT RIGHT, AM I THE ONLY ONE THIS IS HAPPENING TO?

I LEFT MY KEYS IN THE IGNITION ONE NIGHT, WENT TO BED, AND WOKE UP TO MY HEADLIGHTS TURNING ON AND OFF. I THOUGHT SOMEONE WAS TRYING TO STEAL MY CAR, BUT WHEN I RAN OUTSIDE, THE CAR WAS LITERALLY STARTING ITSELF, TURNING ITSELF OFF, TURNING BACK ON, AND BACK OFF. I'M NOT SURE HOW LONG IT HAD BEEN DOING THAT, BUT THEN I STARTED IT UP MYSELF, AND TURNED IT OFF, THEN REMOVED THE KEYS FROM THE IGNITION. IT WAS IN THE PARK POSITION.

THE PLASTIC GEAR THAT RUNS THE DEFROSTER BROKE AND WE CAN'T SEE TO DRIVE THE VEHICLE

THE CAR SEEMS TO HAVE BEEN AFFECTED OF ONE SEVERAL ISSUES THAT HAPPENED EARLY ON IN THE PRODUCTION WITH A COOLANT LEAK SMELL PROBLEM IN THE CABIN, PARTICULARLY EVIDENT WHILE BRAKING TO A STOP. THE SMELL SEEMS TO BE LINKED TO A COOLANT LEAK IN THE HEATER CORE OR IN THE CONNECTIONS OF THE PIPES WITH THE EXCHANGER ITSELF. THIS IS DANGEROUS AS THE FUMES ARE POSSIBLY SLIGHTLY TOXIC AND, MOREOVER, IT INDICATES A LEAKAGE IN AN AREA AFTER THE FIREWALL THAT CAN LEAD TO SCALDING IF IT GETS IN CONTACT WITH A PERSON. EARLIER EVENTS ON THE CAR HAPPENED IN THE INITIAL PRODUCTION OF THE CRUZE AND TYPICALLY QUITE EARLY IN THE MILEAGE, BUT MY CAR SHOWED IT NOW AT 105000 MILES. AN IMPROVEMENT, BUT EVIDENTLY NOT A FULL FIX.

THE LOCKS KEEP LOCKING & UNLOCKING, SOMETIMES AFTER GETTING THE FEELING THAT THE CAR WAS BUMPED, WHICH IT WASN'T. LATELY IT ALMOST STALLS THEN ACCELERATES TOO QUICKLY & MAKES A REVVING SOUND. I'M NOT DRIVING IT RIGHT NOW. THE BUMPING & LOCKS ON & OFF HAPPEN WHILE DRIVING OR WHILE STOPPED.I CAN'T GIVE A DATE. IT'S BEEN HAPPENING FOR COUPLE OF MONTHS. THANK YOU

DEFROST QUIT WORKING..AIR BLOWS OUT OF ALL OTHER VENTS BUT NOT DEFROST

CHEVY CRUZE 1.8 LITER MANUAL TRANSMISSION. 2013. HAD RECALL FOR HIGH TEMP FOR CATALYTIC CONVERTER. MANUFACTURER RESET COMPUTER AS RECALL REQUIRED. NOW, THE CATALYTIC CONVERTER HAS STOPPED WORKING. ENGINE LIGHT ON.

RADIATOR LEEKING FLUID CAR OVER HEATING. WHEN CKED SAID THE PROBLEM WAS INTERNAL. THEN I HAVE TO PAY FOR EVERTHING THAT WAS CAUSED BY PROBLEM THAT WAS NOT UNDER WARRANTY. THEY WANT ME 2 PAY FOR HOSE AND OTHER THINGS, ALMOST $200. THE PROBLEM STARTED AFTER I HAD AN OIL CHANGE AT THIS LOCATION. MY HEATER WAS NOT GETTING HOT AND WHEN I CKED NO FLUID N RADIATOR. SO I CALLED THE DEALERSHIP, THEY DIDN'T TELL ME THAT WAS NOT PART OF 24 POINTS CHECK UNTIL TODAY. MY COMPLAINT IS WE HAVE 2 PAY FOHEY. WANT 2 LET U KNOW I WILL NOT BE THERE 2MORROW MORNING. HAVE 2 TAKE MY CAR 2 SHOP. DEPEND ON HOW LONG IT TAKE 2 FIX. WILL GET RENTAL, BUT WILL NOT KNOW TILL THEY CK IT OUT. WILL GIVE U A CALL WHEN I FIND OUT.R EVERYTHING THAT WAS CAUSED BY PROBLEM. IF IT IS A RECALL PROBLEM EVERYTHING THAT IT TAKE TO REPAIR SHOULD BE COVER. I AM AN CAREGIVE( CNA) NEED MY CAR FOR WORK INWHICH I HAVE MISSED 2 DAYS BECAUSE OF THIS PROBLEM THEN STILL HQVE 2 COME OUT OF MY POCKET. NOT SURE IF THIS PROBLEM HAVE DAMAGED MY MOTOR OR NOT.

I STARTED THAT THERE WAS A PART THEY FIXED AND I DON'T KNOW WHAT I IT IS CALLED, BUT THE BLACK CAP THAT IS DIRECTLY BEHIND THE AREA WHERE YOU PUT THE MOTOR OIL IS WHERE THEY SAID IT WAS OPENED (IT HAD A BUBBLE OR IT HAS SMALL PART OF THE RUBBLE HAD CAME UP. SO PUT A NEW ONE IT. NOT DEALERSHIP ANOTHER WELL KNOWN GARAGE MACHANIC WHO HAS BEEN IN BUSINESS OVER 25 YEARS. I TOOK IT TOOK AUTO ADVANCE AND THE SAID THAT THEY DIDN'T FINISH SEALING THE GASKET ON THIS AREA. I DON'T WHAT'S GOING ON WITH MY THERMOSTAT EITHER.

TIRE MONITOR SYSTEM, I HAVE HAD PROBLEMS WITH THIS SYSTEM EVER SINCE I PURCHASED MY CAR. EVERY ATTEMPT TO FIX IT HAS BEEN UNSUCCESSFUL. WHEN THE DEALERSHIP RESETS IT, IT GOES WONKY AND DISPLAYS INCORRECT INFO ABOUT TIRE PRESSURE AND LOCATION OF TIRE WITH THAT PRESSURE. IT RECENTLY SHOWED THAT ONE OF MY TIRES HAD A NO DISPLAY READING AND A "SERVICE TIRE MONITOR SYSTEM" ALERT. AND WHEN I TOOK IT IN FOR SERVICING, THEY TOLD ME ITS NOT COVERED BY ANY WARRENTY (WHICH I HAVE THE EXTENDED WARRENTY). THIS SEEMS TO ME TO BE A SAFETY ISSUE AS IT IS APPARENTLY IMPORTANT TO THE SYSTEM TO DISPLAY IT ON MY SERVICING SCREEN (AND AFFECTS MY GAS MILEAGE THAT AFFECTS MY EMISSIONS)! SO WHY ISN'T IT COVERED BY THE MANUFACTURES WARRENTY? WHY HAVE IT THERE AT ALL THEN!?PERHAPS IT IS A JOB SECURITY THING JUST TO BRING IN REVENUE. ITS B***S*** I THINK!!!

WHILE DRIVING IN MOTION GOING DOWN THE HIGHWAY AT 65 MPH CAR LOST ALL POWER ALL OF SUDDEN, THIS ALSO HAPPENED WHILE SITTING AT A STOP LIGHT TOTAL LOSS OF POWER. THIS IS SERIOUS IT STALLS IN MIDDLE OF THE ROAD AND IT MAY OR MAYNOT START BACK UP.

CONSUMER COMPLAINT. NOXIOUS ODOR FROM HEATER. CAUSES NASAL DISCOMFORT AND COUGHING FORCING MANUAL SHUTDOWN OF HEATER. HEATER IS OUTGASSING A CLOYINGLY SWEET SMELL THAT IS WIDELY DISCUSSED IN INTERNET FORUMS WITH NO SOLUTION. *JS

NEEDS RECALLS MAILED TRANSMISSION NEEDS TO BE REPLACED HAS 50380 MILES CANNOT FIND THE PARTS TO REPAIR IT

AIR CONDITIONING IS NOT WORKING CORRECTLY. IT BLOWS WELL BUT WILL NOT COOL. I CAN FEEL SOME COOLNESS OUT OF PASSENGER SIDE BUT DRIVER SIDE IS HOT AIR. IF YOU TURN THE FAN KNOB TO LOW THEN BOTH SIDES WILL COOL BUT IT IS NOT ENOUGH TO COOL ANYTHING. HAVE HAD IT CHECKED AND THERE IS PLENTY OF COOLANT. IT STARTED JULY OF 2016 SO I DROVE IT VERY LITTLE IT IS MUCH WORSE THIS SUMMER JULY OF 2017. ITS THE SAME RESULT DRIVING OR STATIONARY. IN THE EARLY MORNING IF IT'S COOL OUTSIDE IT DOES GET COOLER BUT AS THE DAY GETS WARMER SO DOES THE AIR COMING OUT OF THE AIR CONDITIONING VENTS.