2012 Chevrolet Impala UNKNOWN OR OTHER

Stability traction control I have had to fix it 3 times once was ball bearing and the other was a wire harness and it has to go in shop again for stability traction issues again also the door blending parts keep failing in my car I have had 3 replaced

The stability track light is on and abs. The sensor in the hubs go out even in New hubs. When I'm pulling out onto the road the traction light comes on an makes a grinding noise and the power goes down .I was told it was the stability track chain and the sensor in my right hub.

I purchased the vehicle used. Four months after I purchased it the traction control, stabilitrak and reduced engine power light came on. I took it to a certified mechanic, he said the code came back as a faulty battery. He replaced the battery and said everything should be fine. Less than 4 hours the car did the same thing. I took it back and he said it was the throttle so he cleaned it costing me a total of approximately 350.00. I didn’t have any problems for 2 months. Now it seems to be getting worse and does it almost every time I start the car. The car idles rough and shifts hard if I drive it. Also the traction control light comes on when I turn left and makes a grinding noise. Since the issue I’ve researched and found several complaints regarding the same issue.

THE DOOR BLEND ACTUATORS GO OUT CONSTANTLY. THE CAR HAS THREE OF THEM. WHEN THEY GO BAD, THERE IS A LOUD CLICKING OR KNOCKING SOUND BEHIND THE DASHBOARD AND THE AIR CONDITIONER AND HEATER STOP WORKING. IF IT'S COLD, IT BLOWS COLD AIR AND IF IT'S HOT IT BLOWS HOT AIR. I HAVE REPLACED AT LEAST 20 ACTUATORS. ONCE THEY GO BAD, A NEW ONE LAST ONLY A FEW MONTHS, WHICH MEANS THERE IS A DEEPER ISSUE. THE DEALER SAYS CHEVY IS AWARE OF THE PROBLEM AND IT IS A WELL KNOWN ISSUE; HOWEVER, THEY HAVE NOT ISSUED A RECALL, DEALER COULD NOT QUOTE A PRICE BECAUSE THEY WON'T KNOW WHAT IS WRONG UNTIL THEY GET IN THERE. DEALER SUSPECTS CHEVY WON'T ISSUE RECALL BECAUSE THE WHOLE SYSTEM IS FAULTY AND WILL COST THOUSANDS PER CAR TO FIX.

THE REAR IMPACT BAR ON MY 2012 IMPALA IS ROTTED OUT, NOT JUST RUSTED, ROTTED. IT OFFERS NO PROTECTION IN A REAR END COLLISION. I BOUGHT THE CAR NEW AND THE REST OF THE CAR IS STILL PRETTY CLEAN WITH VERY MINOR RUST IN THE BODY SEAMS.

CAR LUNGED INTO CAR IN FRONT EVEN THOUGH MY FOOT ON BRAKE. PLACED CAR IN REVERSE AND IT KEPT GOING IN REVERSE VERY FAST UNTIL CAR BACKED UP ONTO A CURB!!! IT WAS AS IF THE ACCELERATOR GOT STUCK EVEN THOUGH FOOT WAS ON BRAKE. *TR

LOUD CLICKING NOISE COMING FROM INSIDE THE DASHBOARD. THE SOUND IS NEAR THE DRIVER SIDE PASSENGER SIDE. IT HAPPENS WHENEVER I UNLOCK THE DOORS OR DO ANYTHING WITH THE AIR CONDITIONING/HEATING CONTROLS. IT GOES ON FOR MINUTES AT A TIME WHEN I FIRST GET IN THE CAR AND HAPPENS ON AND OFF WHILE I'M DRIVING

THERE'S A TICKING SOUND INSIDE THE DASHBOARD AND IT GET LOUDER AND TICK FOR 5 TO 10 MIN WHEN THE CAR IS OFF AND STARTING UP

TAKATA RECALL

OPENING DRIVER DOOR TICKING SOUND LASTS ABOUT 1 MINUTE AND QUITS TICKING. KEY IS NOT IN IGNITION. SOUND IS COMING FROM DASHBOARD

WHEN I START MY CAR UP FROM A COLD START, I HERE A RATTLING NOISE, AND AFTER IT GETS WARM IT GOES AWAY. ITS BEEN DOING THAT EVER SINCE I BOUGHT THE CAR. AS THE MILES GOT ON THE CAR I THOUGHT IT MIGHT BE THE CATALYTIC CONVERTER. I HAVE 200,000 MILES PLUS

MY CAR IS CURRENTLY IN SOUTH KOREA WITH ME, BECAUSE I'M STATIONED HERE FOR MILITARY PURPOSES. I'M MOVING BACK TO THE STATES AND MY CAR IS SUPPOSED TO SHIP OFF AUGUST 29TH BUT MY CAR CANNOT SHIP WITH A RECALL STATUS THAT READS INCOMPLETE STATUS WITH THE VPC CENTER. NO DEALERSHIP IN KOREA CAN HELP ME WITH THIS ISSUE. MY RECALL ISSUE STATES IF THE KEY RING IS CARRYING ADDED WEIGHT AND THE VEHICLE GOES OFF ROAD OR EXPERIENCES SOME OTHER JARRING EVENT, IT MAY UNINTENTIONALLY MOVE THE KEY AWAY FROM THE "RUN" POSITION. AFTER CALLING THE CHEVROLET DEALERSHIP, I WAS TOLD A CASE WOULD BE OPENED IN MY SITUATION TO ATTEMPT TO CLOSE OUT THE RECALL DUE TO ME HAVING HE VEHICLE THREE YEARS WITH NO ISSUES RELATED TO THIS. IT HAS BEEN A WEEK AND I WAS TOLD THAT I WOULD BE CONTACTED IN TWO DAYS WITH AN ANSWER. CAN SOMEONE HELP ME IN THIS SITUATION SO THAT MY CAR CAN BE SHIPPED BACK TO AMERICA???

WHEN A WINDOW IS ROLLED DOWN IN THE VEHICLE THERE IS A HORRIBLE VIBRATION INSIDE OF THE CAR THAT ACTUALLY CAUSES A HEADACHE. EVEN IF WE ROLL DOWN TWO IT DOESN'T HELP.

I TOOK MY VEHICLE IN FOR SERVICE TO A RECALL FOR THE IGNITION, WHILE THERE THEY DISCOVERED OIL LEAKING FROM OIL PAN GASKET, THEY FOUND PROBLEMS WITH THE EMISSION. I TOOK IT HOME AND WHEN I STARTED IT IT WAS ACCELERATED, I TOOK IT BACK AND DEALER CLAIMED IT WAS NOT PART OF THE WORK THEY DID. THEY CHARGED ME 428.00 TO REPAIR. THE NEXT DAY I DROVE THE CAR THE IDLE WAS AT 3 WHEN I STARTED IT, TOOK IT BACK TO THE DEALER, THEY CLAIM THEY RESET THE IDLE, BUT THE IDLE REMAINS AT 1.5 WHEN IM DRIVING, AND FEELS ACCELERATED. THIS ALL BEGAN WHEN THEY REPAIRED A PROBLEM UNDER GUARANTEE. CAR HAS 103,000.00 MILES.

HAVE HAD 5 GOODYEAR EAGLE LS TIRES THAT HAVE BROKEN BELTS IN THEM. WHEN I GOT THE CAR IT HAD EAGLE LS'S ON IT. THEY ALL HAD THE SAME PROBLEM AND WERE REPLACED UNFORTUNATELY WITH THE SAME BRAND OF TIRE. NOW 1 OF THE NEW EAGLE LS HAS A BROKEN BELT IN IT AND IT FEELS LIKE I HAVE A BENT RIM. MY TIRE PLACE NOW IS TELLING ME THAT THE EAGLE LIS IS JUNK AND DOES NOT RECOMMEND THEM AGAIN. I WILL HAVE TO REPLACE ALL THE TIRES AGAIN BECAUSE OF THE FLAW IN THEM. SOMETHING SHOULD BE DONE ABOUT THIS BEFORE SOMEONE GETS HURT OF KILLED WITH THE JUNK TIRES. GOODYEAR OFFERED NO REPLACEMENT DISCOUNTS OR HELP WITH THIS PROBLEM PER THE TIRE SHOP.

THE AIR CONDITIONING SYSTEM STOPPED PROVIDING COLD, DRY AIR FOR A PERIOD OF ABOUT 15 MINUTES. THEN, THE COLD, DRY AIR RETURNED. THE AIRFLOW THROUGH THE VENTS NEVER DECREASED, ONLY THE TEMPERATURE AND HUMIDITY IN THE CABIN CHANGED. THIS HAS OCCURRED INTERMITTENTLY THROUGHOUT THE SUMMER OF 2014, APPROXIMATELY 20 TIMES.