2018 Ford Explorer Electrical System

Entertainment system control. Power draws down and kills battery. Display locks into reverse camera, and I can't access any controls for extended periods of time. Display just locks, and I can't adjust anything in it. This seems to be a known issue for all Sync 3 based backends.

Fault code B14E7:08-0A Right Front Enhanced Exterior Lighting System, passenger headlamp will not turn off until BCM disconnects after 20 minutes. Dealer diagnosis determined a possible headlamp control module FB5Z13C788D fault (replaced left module with right module and same headlamp stayed on so both headlamp control modules are correctly functioning) this indicates a broken wire in right front enhanced exterior lighting system wiring harness. Problem remains unresolved.

Traveling 50mph, noticed smoke rolling from under the dash. Got to the side of the road. The entire dash was engulfed in fire. I had to fight my way out of the car after the doors locked. After I got out of the vehicle I called 911. Fire department came. It has been ruled as electrical. I am not sure whom I need to reach out to yet in regards to this matter and a total loss.

Screen blacks out and unable to connect handsfree, control rear ac or anything else that requires use of screen

The contact owns a 2018 Ford Explorer. The contact stated that while operating the vehicle, there was an abnormal acidic odor inside the cabin of the vehicle. Upon raising the hood and inspecting the vehicle, the contact became aware that the battery cap was unsecured, and the battery acid had covered the interior of the engine compartment. The vehicle was towed to the local dealer, where the engine compartment was cleaned, and the battery was replaced. The vehicle was repaired. The contact stated that the battery was previously replaced at a different dealer. The manufacturer was notified of the failure, but no assistance was offered. The failure mileage was 73,000.

The contact owns a 2018 Ford Explorer. The contact stated that while attempting to start the vehicle, there was an abnormal clicking sound coming from the vehicle and the vehicle failed to start. The contact stated that the clicking sound was the doors locking and unlocking continuously. No warning lights were illuminated. The vehicle was taken to the dealer, who diagnosed a failure with the keyless entry keypad on the driver's side door, resulting in battery drainage. The contact was informed that the keypad needed to be reprogrammed. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was notified of the failure and referred the contact to the NHTSA Hotline for assistance. The failure mileage was unknown.

Both driver and passenger low beam headlights started strobe, than completely stopped working while driving at night. This was extremely stressful and dangerous as I was no longer able to see the roads very well, my options were get a tow truck to pick up and bring my vehicle from Michigan back to Minnesota or sit on the side of the road until the morning also a safety risk. Upon inspection the following day, it was only the low beam that was not working and all other LED's were working. This is when I tried to replace both headlight modules, that did not fix the issue. I then bought new headlights thinking the low beam LED stopped working after going through 3 sets of headlights the issue was never resolved.

The APIM (sync module) went blank. It controls backup camera, radio, heat and air, sensors on the bumper etc... Ford said the APIM failed testing and recommended to replace the APIM to gain access to the screen. It would only cost about $1100. This is a safety issue because the sensors will not work.

My screen went black for my Ford Explorer. I have no access to climate controls, backup Camera, radio, GPS, etc. My local Ford dealership said there was a recall pending but that’s been a few months now. It’s very dangerous driving like that with my 4 and 2 year old in the car.

The APIM module that controls the display and functioning has stopped working. The following are a couple of safety concerns with this: 1. The backup camera does not work. I almost hit a pedestrian while backing up because of this. 2. Hands free features with communication and gps is not available. Not having this feature takes away a hand from the steering wheel and focus on the road. 3. Some of the climate controls are not accessible. I took the car to a Ford dealer who confirmed that the APIM module is not working. No one else has checked the car. There was a gradual decline in functionality before it completely stopped working. Some trips it would work and others it did not. The frequency of it not working increased until it completely stopped working.

The horn went out for a second time since I’ve owned this vehicle. The horns are in a bad location and in rainy weather they get wet and short out. The dealer will replace the horn again.

When the radio is on, a loud buzzing sound from the radio, do not believe it’s in the speakers

Driver door keypad detacted from pillar. Rear lift gate will not open with button on lift gate, key fob or switch in dash board.

Horn failed to sound after pressing center of steering wheel. The horn started changing tones over a period of time then got quieter and then stopped working all together. Fuses and relays are in good condition. Will take it to a Ford dealer to have it looked at for further diagnosis.

The battery continues to drain even when parked next to my house. After a few days some systems shut down beginning with the passenger door handle sensor not unlocking the doors when touched. A few days later the car would not start. It has been to several dealers in the nearly three years I have owned it and had numerous batteries replaced. Dealer always states everything checks out fine I have been stranded with a no start several times. The 12 volt accessories socket also stops working.

IN MARCH 2018 I BOUGHT A BRAND NEW 2018 EXPLORER. IN NOVEMBER 2019 MY SECURITY SYSTEM STARTED GOING OFF ON IT'S OWN WITHOUT ANY DISTURBANCE TO THE VEHICLE OR ME TOUCHING MY KEYS. THE NEXT DAY THE BATTERY WAS DEAD AND THE FORD SERVICE CENTER TOLD ME MY BATTERY WAS DEAD DUE TO A COLD SNAP (WE ARE IN SC...IT DOES NOT GET THAT COLD). I HAD TO GET A BRAND NEW BATTERY. NOW LESS THAN A YEAR LATER, IT'S AUGUST 2020 AND THE KEY PAD ON THE DRIVER'S SIDE EXTERIOR DOOR IS MALFUNCTIONING AND BLINKING UNCONTROLLABLY UNTIL IT FINALLY DIED AND DOES NOT WORK. THE CAR IS STILL FUNCTIONING FINE UP UNTIL THIS POINT. NOW 3 WEEKS LATER, MY CAR DID NOT START THIS MORNING AND I HAD TO BE JUMPED OFF. I TOOK IT TO THE FORD DEALERSHIP AND THEY SAID SOMETHING IS DRAINING MY BATTERY AND IT IS NOT HOLDING A CHARGE. THERE'S NO REASON WHY A 2018 EXPLORER SHOULD NEED TWO NEW BATTERIES IN 2 YEARS. SOMETHING IS DRAINING MY BATTERY AND NO ONE CAN TELL ME WHAT THAT ISSUE IS.

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

THE CAR SAT FOR 7 DAYS (WE ARE RETIRED) AND THE STARTER BUTTON DID NOT RESPOND ON THE FIRST TWO TRIES TO START ENGINE. IT HAPPENED ON TWO OCCASIONS. IF LEFT AT AN AIRPORT, WE MIGHT HAVE BEEN STRANDED. I BELIEVE THE CAUSE IS THE HIGH CURRENT DRAIN FOR THE WIFI AND OTHER ELECTRONICS GOING ON. THE DEALER SAID TO CHECK BATTERY. THE PROBLEM DOES NOT OCCUR UNLESS THE CAR IS UNUSED FOR A NUMBER OF DAYS.