2006 Ford Fusion Electrical System

COMPUTER SHORT CIRCUITED CAUSING CAR TO MISFIRE MELTING THE COIL AND COULD HAVE SET THE CAR ON FIRE. THIS IS A SAFETY ISSUE. MY MECHANIC SAID THIS IS THE SECOND FORD HE HAS SEEN DO THIS. HE STATED IT IS DANGEROUS.

Faulty evap temperature sensor on my 06 Ford Fusion I purchased a couple of months ago. It is a huge safety issue, the vehicle thinks it’s running ICE COLD when it’s over 100 degrees outside. It emits hot or fluctuating air at random and it’s giving wrong readings which can cause the car to overheat or not sense when it is overheating. I do not know if the needle is correct and if it’s about to smoke or not.

I GOT A 06 FORD FUSION THAT I READ ABOUT ,IT STAYED THAT FORD MOTORS WAS WELL AWARE OF THE E-VAP SENSOR FOR THE AIRCONDITON IT STOP MY COMPRESSOR FOR TURNING ON [THE CAUSE WAS EVAPORATOR DISCHARGE AIR TEMPERATURE SENSOR]FORD IS WELL AWARE THAT THE SENSORS ARE FAULTY"I THINK THIS IS A SAFETY MATTER BECAUSE OF THE HIGH HEAT TEMPERATURES. WHILE DRIVING WE SHOULD FEEL COMFORTABLE NOT TIRED FROM HEAT EXHAUSTION

DRIVERS SIDE FRONT TURN SIGNAL DOES NOT FLASH, STAYS SOLID. CHANGED THE BULB, DOES THE SAME THING.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2006 FORD FUSION. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE SMART JUNCTION BOX FAILED TO FUNCTION CAUSING THE BATTERY AND ALL OF THE TURN SIGNAL FUNCTIONS TO FAIL. A DEALER HAD NOT DIAGNOSED THE VEHICLE BUT AN INDEPENDENT MECHANIC DIAGNOSED THAT THE SMART JUNCTION BOX NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE, PROVIDED NO SOLUTION, AND INDICATED THAT THERE WAS NO RECALL. THE CONTACT WAS CONCERNED IF THE PART WAS REPLACED THAT THE FAILURE WOULD CONTINUE. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS NOT AVAILABLE. *TT

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2006 FORD FUSION. WHILE DRIVING 15 MPH, THE TURN SIGNALS BECAME INOPERABLE AND THE ENGINE STALLED. THE VEHICLE WAS ABLE TO RESTART. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO AN INDEPENDENT MECHANIC WHERE IT WAS DIAGNOSED THAT THE SMART JUNCTION BOX FAILED AND NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS APPROXIMATELY 114,000.

THE REAR TAIL LIGHT SOCKET AND BULB ARE CHARRED BLACK AS IF THEY CAUGHT FIRE. I FOUND THE ISSUE BECAUSE THE SIGNAL LIGHT FAILED. IT SMELLED BURNT. UNSURE IF THERE WAS ACTUAL FLAME OR NOT.

DRIVING BOTH HIGHWAY AND CITY STREETS. WHILE DRIVING TO WORK MY TURN LEFT SIGNAL BEGAN TO FLASH FASTER INDICATING A BURNED OUT BULB WHEN THE RIGHT TURN SIGNAL STARTED FLASHING FASTER. AFTER WORK I COULD NOT UNLOCK MY CAR AND HAD TO HAVE SECURITY UNLOCK MY CAR ONLY TO FIND MY BATTERY WAS DEAD. SECURITY THEN JUMPED STARTED THE CAR, I DROVE OFF TO BATTLE MY THRU RUSH HOUR WITH OUT TURN SIGNALS. THE NEXT MORNING THE CAR BATTERY WAS DEAD AGAIN, AFTER GETTING IT STARTED I NOTICED THE RIGHT FRONT TURN SIGNAL BULB STAYED ON EVEN WHEN THE CAR WAS TURNED OFF,UNTIL BATTERY WAS DRAINED. I TOOK IT TO MY MECHANIC HE SAID THE SMART BOX WOULD NEED TO BE REPLACED AND PROGRAMED, AND COST ABOUT $850! I WENT TO PICKUP THE VEHICLE HAD TROUBLE UNLOCKING THE DOOR AGAIN THIS TIME THE BATTERY WAS DEAD AGAIN AND NEEDED TO BE REPLACED.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2006 FORD FUSION. THE CONTACT STATED THAT WHILE DRIVING AT 5 MPH, THE VEHICLE SUDDENLY STALLED WITHOUT WARNING. THE VEHICLE WAS TOWED TO THE DEALER. THE DEALER STATED A REMOTE STARTER THAT WAS PREVIOUSLY INSTALLED BURNED A FUSE. THE FUSE WAS REPLACED, BUT THE TURN SIGNALS FAILED. THE DEALER STATED THAT THE SMART BOX NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. THE VEHICLE WAS REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 101,000. THE VIN WAS NOT AVAILABLE.

CAR WOULD CUT OFF AT ANY TIME, AND CUT OFF SEVERAL TIMES WHILE IN MOTION.. HAD TO BE TOWED TWICE AND FINALLY ON 10/1/14 TOOK IT TO A FORD DEALERSHIP AND THEY REPAIRED IT AT A COST TO ME OF $1,462.98. SINCE THE FOCUS HAS A RECALL I WONDER IF THIS SHOULD ALSO HAVE A RECALL.

WHILE DRIVING MY FUSION ON 11/1/15, BOTH FRONT TURN SIGNALS STOPPED WORKING WHEN ATTEMPTING TO MAKE A TURN ONTO AN INTERSTATE. THE DASH INDICATED A WARNING THAT THE LEFT AND RIGHT FRONT TURN SIGNAL LAMP WAS NOT WORKING WHEN THE SIGNAL WAS ACTIVATED BY THE SWITCH. I ASSUMED A BULB HAD BURNT OUT. HOWEVER, ONCE MY CAR WAS TURNED COMPLETELY OFF, THE LEFT FRONT BULB REMAINED ON, DESPITE NO ONE BEING IN THE CAR. THE LIGHT REMAINED ON FOR MULTIPLE HOURS BEFORE I BECAME AWARE OF IT ONCE I RETURNED TO MY VEHICLE. DURING THIS TIME, IT WAS DRAINING THE BATTERY. I THE. HAD TO DRIVE MY CAR ON CITY STREETS AND THE INTERSTATE TO GET HOME. I TRIED PURCHASING NEW BULBS, BUT FOUND THAT BOTH BULBS CURRENTLY IN THE CAR WORKED FINE. NO WIRING WAS LOOSE OR FRAYED. LATER THAT WEEK, I BROUGHT IT TO A MECHANIC WHO DIAGNOSED IT AS A FAILED SMART JUNCTION BOX THAT HAS LED TO THE TURN SIGNAL NOT WORKING. I CONTACTED MY LOCAL DEALERSHIP IN ACCORDANCE WITH MY MECHANIC'S SUGGESTION. I WAS INFORMED THERE IS NO RECALL ON THIS PART. HOW IS THERE NO RECALL WHEN THIS IS CLEARLY A SAFETY ISSUE? MALFUNCTIONING TURN SIGNALS WHILE DRIVING WITH NO DIRECT CAUSE IS A PROBLEM. ESPECIALLY WHEN IT LEADS TO A LIGHT REMAINING ON LEADING TO KILLING THE CAR BATTERY. ACCORDING TO THE DEALERSHIP, THE ONLY SOLUTION IS PURCHASING A NEW JUNCTION BOX FROM THEM (NO LOCAL PARTS STORES CAN EVEN FIND ONE IN THEIR INVENTORY) AND HAVE IT INSTALLED AND PROGRAMMED BY THEM.

AFTER PARKING MY CAR OUTSIDE MY HOUSE, I OPENED MY DOOR AND THE HANDLE SHORT CIRCUITED AND EXPLODED BLOWING OUT A PIECE OF THE DOOR HANDLE OFF EXPOSING THE THE HANDLES SPRINGS AND WIRING. *TR

THE POWER LOCKS, AND INTERIOR DOOR HANDLES TO OPEN THE DOOR IN BOTH THE FRONT AND REAR/DRIVER AND PASSENGER SIDES MALFUNCTION REGARDLESS OF USE/FORCE. THE INTERIOR DOOR HANDLE WARPS/BENDS AND BREAKS. THE LOCKING MECHANISM ALSO MALFUNCTIONS MAKING IT IMPOSSIBLE TO OPEN THE DOOR FROM THE INTERIOR. IN ONLY WAY TO EXIT THE VEHICLE IS TO ROLL DOWN THE WINDOW AND OPEN THE DOOR FROM THE OUTSIDE DOOR HANDLE. ONCE THE LOCKING MECHANISM HAS MALFUNCTIONED, IT IS IMPOSSIBLE TO LOCK THE VEHICLE VIA THE REMOTE ALARM OR WITH THE PHYSICAL KEY. THIS PRESENTS A MAJOR PROBLEM AS 1:IN THE EVENT THAT THE DRIVER AND OR PASSENGERS NEED TO EXIT THE VEHICLE IT IS IMPOSSIBLE UNLESS WINDOWS ARE ROLLED DOWN. 1B: IN THE EVENT THAT A CRASH OR WINDOWS MALFUNCTION, ALL OCCUPANTS ARE TRAPPED IN VEHICLE 2:THE VEHICLE IS WITHOUT PASSIVE ANTI-THEFT AS THE DOORS ARE UNABLE TO LOCK. *TR

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2006 FORD FUSION. THE CONTACT STATED THAT WHILE TRAVELING 60 MPH, SMOKE ENTERED THE VEHICLE FROM THE FRONT PANEL VENTS UNDERNEATH THE HOOD. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE ENGINE WARNING LIGHT ILLUMINATED ON THE INSTRUMENT PANEL AND THE VEHICLE BEGAN TO STALL INTERMITTENTLY. THE FAILURE OCCURRED ON THREE SEPARATE OCCASIONS. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO A DEALER WHERE IT WAS DIAGNOSED THAT THE POWER CONTROL MODULE NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 124,000 AND THE CURRENT MILEAGE 124,030. UPDATED 08/19/14*LJ UPDATED 8/30/2017*CN

I AM THE ORIGINAL OWNER OF A 2006 FORD FUSION WITH ONLY 65000 MILES. I RECENTLY HAD A VERY SCARY NEAR DEATH EXPERIENCE DUE TO A DEFECT IN THIS VEHICLE. AFTER MUCH RESEARCH ONLINE AND SPEAKING TO CERTIFIED MECHANICS I AM SURE FORD IS WELL AWARE OF THE PROBLEM THAT EXISTS WITH THE IGNITION COILS EXPLODING DUE TO A COMPUTER MALFUNCTION. THIS CAUSES THE CAR TO STOP. MY CAR HAPPENED TO STOP WHILE I WAS ON THE FREEWAY. I WON'T GO INTO A LOT OF DETAIL BUT IT WAS SCARY AND COULD HAVE POTENTIALLY COST ME MY LIFE. FORTUNATELY I WAS ABLE TO SAFELY COAST TO THE SHOULDER AND WAIT FOR AAA TO COME TO MY RESCUE. I TOOK MY CAR TO A MECHANIC WHO GOT THE CAR RUNNING AGAIN AFTER REPLACING TWO IGNITION COILS AND MY SPARK PLUGS, BUT IT BROKE DOWN AGAIN ON THE WAY HOME FROM THE MECHANIC. AGAIN, THE CAR JUST SHUTS OFF WITHOUT WARNING, BUT THIS TIME I WAS LEFT IN THE MIDDLE OF TRAFFIC WAITING FOR AAA. MY CAR IS NOW AT THE FORD DEALERSHIP AND THE BILL IS REALLY HIGH. BOTH, MY MECHANIC AND THE FORD SERVICE TECHNICIAN CONFIRMED THAT THERE IS AN ISSUE WITH THE COMPUTER THAT IS CAUSING IGNITION COILS TO "BURN UP" OR "EXPLODE". I UNDERSTAND THAT THERE IS AN 8 YEAR OR 80,000 MILE WARRANTY WITH COVERS THIS ISSUE, BUT UNFORTUNATELY I AM OVER THE 8 YEARS (BUT STILL 15,000 UNDER THE MILEAGE). THIS SHOULD BE A RECALL. SOMEONE COULD POTENTIALLY LOSE THEIR LIFE BECAUSE FORD CHOOSES TO OVERLOOK THIS TICKING TIME BOMB. I AM NOW HAVING TO SPEND $2200 TO REPAIR THIS ISSUE WHEN FORD SHOULD BE THE ONE COVERING THE COST TO MAKE IT RIGHT. *TR

IGNITION KEY IS STUCK IN THE IGNITION HOLE AND CANNOT BE REMOVED. *TR

ON TUESDAY, AUGUST 14 I WAS MAKING MY WAY TO WORK AND MERGING ON TO A BUSY ROAD WHEN MY CAR STOPPED MOVE, THERE WAS NO WARNING, NO CHECK ENGINE LIGHT, NOTHING. I PUSHED THE GAS, BUT WOULDN'T MOVE. BY SOME MIRACLE THE CAR BEHIND ME DID NOT HIT ME AND I WAS ABLE TO GET TO THE SIDE OF THE HIGHWAY. ONCE THERE, MY CHECK ENGINE LIGHT BEGAN TO FLASH. ONCE I WAS ABLE TO GET THE CAR TO A SHOP, IT WAS DETERMINED IT FELL UNDER TSB 11-8-2. THE FIX FOR THIS, A NEW PCM, 6 COILS, 6 SPARK PLUGS, VALVE COVER GASKET, TUBE SEALS AND AN AIR FILTER ELEMENT, NOT TO MENTION A TOW TO THE LOCAL FORD DEALER TOLOAD THE NEW PCM. PCM'S IN 2006-2008 FORD FUSIONS, 2008 FORD TAURUS, 2007-2008 FORD EDGE, 2006 LINCOLN ZEPHYR 2007-2008 LINCOLN MKZ, MKX AND MERCURY 2006-2008 MILAN AND 2008 SABLE ARE FAULTY AND FORD KNOWS IT! *TR

I HAVE STARTED HAVING PROBLEMS LIKE EVERYONE ELSE IS DESCRIBING WITH MY 2006 FORD FUSION. I HAVE OWNED MY CAR FOR 2 MONTHS. I GET HOME FROM WORK & GO TO GET OUT OF THE CAR & THE KEY WILL NOT COME OUT OF THE IGNITION. FROM READING THE OTHER COMPLAINTS ON HERE I FIGURED OUT IT HAS SOMETHING TO DO WITH THE SHIFTER BUTTON. SOMETHING IS BREAKING ON/IN THE SHIFTER BUTTON & IT'S NOT ALLOWING THE CAR TO THINK IT HAS BEEN PUT IN PARK, THUS NOT ALLOWING THE KEY TO COME OUT OF THE IGNITION. YOU HAVE TO MESS WITH THE SILVER SHIFTER BUTTON & IF YOU CAN FIND IT'S HAPPY SPOT YOU WILL BE ABLE TO GET THE KEY OUT. I JUST CAN'T BELIEVE THAT FORD MADE THIS CAR WITH SUCH CRAPPY PLASTIC PARTS!! I'M STARTING TO WISH I WOULDN'T HAVE BOUGHT THIS CAR. THE SILVER IS PEELING OFF OF THE INSIDE DOOR HANDLES ALSO! THIS CAR IS IN EXCELLENT CONDITION & HAS NOT BEEN TREATED ROUGH, SO I DON'T KNOW WHY IT'S STARTING TO FALL APART. FORD NEEDS TO RECALL THESE ISSUES WITH THE 2006 FORD FUSION'S!! I WILL NEVER BUY ANOTHER FORD VEHICLE AFTER THIS. *TR

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2006 FORD FUSION. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE VEHICLE FAILED TO ACCELERATE WHEN THE ACCELERATOR WAS DEPRESSED. THE FAILURE CAUSED ANOTHER VEHICLE TO CRASH INTO THE CONTACT'S VEHICLE. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO BOTH THE DEALER AND A PRIVATE REPAIR SHOP WHERE THE REPAIR SHOP CONFIRMED THAT THE THROTTLE MALFUNCTIONED AND A CALIBRATION WAS NEEDED FOR THE ELECTRICAL SYSTEM SOFTWARE. THE MANUFACTURER WAS CONTACTED, BUT THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 72,000 AND THE CURRENT MILEAGE WAS 100,000. KMJ

I TOO HAVE A 2006 FORD FUSION SE WITH A SMARTBOX MALFUNCTION. MY DRIVER'S SIDE DIRECTIONAL SIGNAL DOESN'T WORK. MY MECHANIC SAID HE CHECKED ALL THE WIRES LENDING TO THE BOX AND THEY ARE FINE, IT'S THE BOX. IT WILL COST AROUND $600 TO REPLACE. FORD NO LONGER MAKES THIS PART, SO HE HAS TO SEARCH JUNKYARDS FOR IT. HE CAN'T REROUTE THE WIRES BECAUSE THE DIRECTIONAL SIGNAL IN THE BACK IS LOCATED IN THE PLACE WHERE HE WOULD REROUTE IT. I NOW HAVE A VEHICLE THAT WILL NOT PASS INSPECTION, THAT I CAN'T DRIVE "SAFELY" AND IF THE PART IS FOUND I WILL HAVE TO TAKE OUT A LOAN JUST TO PAY TO GET FIXED. WHY! *TR

SINCE I BOUGHT THE CAR IN SPRING OF 06, BULBS NEED TO BE REPLACED QUITE FREQUENTLY. WHEN I CHANGE THEM, THE OLD BULB LOOKS BLACK AND BURNT. A FEW DAYS AGO, I WAS DRIVING AND MY FRONT, RIGHT DIRECTIONAL STOPPED WORKING. I REPLACED THE BULB, THINKING THAT WAS THE ISSUE AGAIN, BUT IT WASN'T. I TOOK IT TO THE DEALERSHIP AND THEY SAID THE SMART JUNCTION BOX NEEDED TO BE REPLACED BECAUSE IT SHORTED OUT INTERNALLY. ESTIMATE IS $600 AFTER I HAD TO PAY $100 JUST TO FIND THE PROBLEM. THAT SEEMS LIKE AN EXPENSIVE FIX FOR ONE DIRECTIONAL. I CAN'T AFFORD THAT RIGHT NOW, SO I CAN'T FIX IT. SEEMS RIDICULOUS. CAR HAS 85,000 MILES ON IT. *TR

I OWNED A 2006 FORD FUSION, THIS CAR CAUGHT ON FIRE AT 4AM. IT WAS RULED AS AN ELECTRICAL FIRE. THERE WERE NO PROBLEMS LEADING UP TO THIS FIRE. *KB

TL*THE CONTACT OWNS A 2006 FORD FUSION. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE KEYS WOULD NOT RELEASE FROM THE IGNITION UNLESS THE BUTTON ON THE GEAR SHIFT WAS PUSHED IN TO RELEASE THE KEY. THE CONTACT HAD TO REMOVE A PIECE OF PLASTIC IN ORDER TO REMOVE THE KEY FROM THE IGNITION SWITCH. THE CONTACT NOTICED NUMEROUS COMPLAINTS REGARDING THE FAILURE. THE CONTACT HAD NOT TAKEN THE VEHICLE TO A DEALER FOR A DIAGNOSTIC TEST. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 34,000.

WHEN DRIVING ON THE INTERSTATE UNDER CRUISE CONTROL, THE ENGINE SUDDENLY DROPPED TO IDLE AND WOULD NOT RESPOND TO THE THROTTLE. FORTUNATELY I WAS ABLE TO COAST TO THE SIDE OF THE ROAD WITHOUT BEING HIT FROM BEHIND. THE CAR SHOWED TWO WARNING LIGHTS: TRACTION CONTROL AND THROTTLE CONTROL. THE CAR WOULD STILL NOT RESPOND TO THE THROTTLE. AFTER TURNING OFF THE CAR AND RESTARTING IT, THE LIGHTS WENT OUT AND THE CAR WAS DRIVABLE AGAIN. I TOOK THE CAR TO THE DEALER, WHO CLEANED THE THROTTLE BODY, FLUSHED THE FUEL INJECTORS AND REPROGRAMMED THE PCM. WHATEVER ACTUALLY HAPPENED, THE FAIL SAFE CONDITION SHOULD NOT BE TO SHUT THE ENGINE DOWN TO IDLE WITHOUT THE ABILITY TO CONTROL THE ENGINE SPEED. IT WAS JUST FORTUNATE THAT THE CAR WAS NOT HIT FROM BEHIND. *TR

TL*THE CONTACT OWNS A 2006 FORD FUSION. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE KEY WAS STUCK IN THE IGNITION. HE HAD TO USE THE SPARE KEY TO LOCK AND UNLOCK THE DOORS. SINCE THE KEY WAS STUCK IN THE IGNITION HE LEFT IT THERE. EVENTUALLY THE CONTACT WAS ABLE TO REMOVE THE KEY FROM THE IGNITION; HOWEVER, THE FAILURE CONTINUED TO OCCUR. THE DEALER WAS CONTACTED AND STATED THAT THEY COULD REPLACE THE KEY FOR $180.00 AT THE OWNERS EXPENSE OR REPLACE THE ENTIRE SHIFT ASSEMBLY FOR APPROXIMATELY $500.00. THE DRIVERS SIDE DOOR HANDLE WAS ALSO DEFECTIVE. THE FAILURE AND CURRENT MILEAGES WERE APPROXIMATELY 92,000.