2010 Honda CR-V Electrical System

Odometer Fraud. The contact purchased a 2010 Honda CR-V. The contact stated that it was discovered that there was a mileage discrepancy after the purchase. The vehicle was a private sale. At the time of purchase, the vehicle mileage was 157,000 and at the time of registration, it was discovered that the mileage was 191,000.

Lock actuator are not working and going on and off one door is more problems than the others

Drivers side door will not unlock or open.

I purchased my CRV from Roseville Honda about 5 years ago and recently 3 of my 5 lock actuators have gone out in the car making the doors unable to open. My vehicle is able to be inspected and I drive it daily. Upon research it was known when they had sold me my car that the actuators in these cars needed to be replaced and failed to do so or to tell me. Mine and my child's safety is at risk with the weather as hot as it is if we get locked in a hot car or out of the car with nowhere to go on these hot days it could be dangerous and even deadly. I have not had the vehicle inspected by the dealer but by my father who is a mechanic. Prior warnings would be my doors automatically locking while driving repeatedly since I bought the car. Case ID: 2:13-cv-00381 this is the case of the prior lawsuit filed by other Honda owners with the same issue so this was known before Roseville Honda sold me my car. I have contacted them about this as well as the 800# and have been told I need to pay $190 for a diagnostic and my car is out of warranty so they cannot help me.

Back rear hatch and back passenger door lock will not unlock

MY HEATER IS BLOWING OUT COLD AIR ALSO NOT ABLE TO USE DEFROSTER WHICH IS A SAFTEY HAZARD - I HAVE HAD SEVERAL CARS IN THE PAST NOT A HONDA AND NEVER HAD PROBLEM WTH HEATING

TL* THE CONTACT CALLED ON BEHALF OF THE OWNER OF A 2010 HONDA CR-V. THE CONTACT STATED THAT ON MULTIPLE OCCASIONS, THE KEY FOB FAILED TO OPERATE AS INTENDED. THE CONTACT HAD TO CALL A TOW TRUCK TO HAVE THE VEHICLE UNLOCKED. THE CONTACT HAD NOT NOTIFIED THE DEALER. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT NOTIFIED OF THIS FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 80,000. THE VIN WAS NOT AVAILABLE.

MY ENGINE WOULD STALL RIGHT AFTER ALL ELECTRICAL COMPONENTS WOULD SHUT OFF THEN COME BACK ON RIGHT AFTER. INTERMITTENT SPARK FIRING. EXACT SAME THING AS IN THE #11V004000 RECALL

I AM DEAF. PASSENGERS NOTE SOUND OF DOOR LOCKS LOCKING AND UNLOCKING CONTINUOUSLY WHILE DRIVING. ALSO PASSENGER DOOR WILL NOT UNLOCK FROM INSIDE, A SEVERE SAFETY HAZARD.

ISSUE 1: WHEN I AM TRYING USE THE HEATER IT SEEMS LIKE MY SIDE (DRIVE SIDE) IS STUCK ON BLOWING COLD AIR. WHILE THE PASSENGER SIDE SEEMS TO BE ADJUSTING FINE AND THE TEMPERATURE CHANGES JUST FINE. BUT ON MY SIDE, EVENTHO IT SAYS IT'S ON HI HEAT. OR 85 DEGREES. IT'S STILL JUST BLOWING COLD AIR ON ME. I'M DOING SOMETHING WRONG. ALSO, WHEN I PRESS THE DUEL BUTTON IT STILL JUST BLOWS COLD AIR ON ME, BUT NOT ON THE PASSENGER SIDE.

THE REAR LOCK HAS BECOME FAULTY AND IS MAKING A LOUD NOISE.

BOTH THE BRAKE AND VEHICLE STABILITY ASSIST (VSA) WARNING LIGHTS ARE LIT UP ON INSTRUMENT PANEL, EVEN WHEN PARKING BRAKE IS NOT ENGAGED AND VSA NOT BEING USED. ESPECIALLY IN COLD WEATHER (BELOW 40) THESE WARNING LIGHTS TURN ON WHEN THE CAR IS RUNNING; BUT SOMETIMES ALSO IN WARMER WEATHER (BELOW MID 50S). ISSUE JUST STARTED NOV. 2016, SO NOT SURE IF LIGHTS WILL GO ON IN WARM WEATHER. DEALER COULD NOT CORRECT. THERE WAS NO ACCIDENT PRECEDING THE FAULTY WARNING LIGHTS.

WHILE TRAVELING A VERY BUSY INTERSTATE ON A HOLIDAY, MY BATTERY CABLE CAME OFF (EROSION). THIS HAPPENED WHILE GOING SLOW DUE TO A NORMAL TRAFFIC SLOWDOWN. I WAS IN THE MIDDLE LANE OF A 5-LANE FREEWAY. AFTER MY CAR STOPPED, TRAFFIC BACKED UP AS FAR AS THE EYE COULD SEE. I HAD NO ELECTRICS AND, AS A RESULT, I COULD NOT GET OUT OF MY CAR, OPEN A WINDOW, TURN ON EMERGENCY FLASHERS, OR USE THE MANUAL DOOR LOCKS. IF THE CAR HAD CAUGHT FIRE, I HAD NO WAY TO GET OUT. BREAKING A WINDOW FROM INSIDE, WITHOUT A TOOL FOR THAT USE, IS BEYOND MY ABILITIES. WITH A SLIGHTLY DIFFERENT SET OF CIRCUMSTANCES, MY LIFE COULD HAVE BEEN IN DANGER. I THINK THE INABILITY TO EXIT MY CAR IS A VERY SERIOUS SAFETY PROBLEM. IT WAS VERY WARM AND THE CAR QUICKLY HEATED UP. TRAFFIC BACKED UP AS FAR AS THE EYE COULD SEE. A FEW PEOPLE STOPPED TO HELP AND ENDED UP GETTING VERY ANGRY WITH ME. "STUPID" AND "IDIOT" WERE THE NAMES THEY USED FOR ME BECAUSE THEY COULD NOT UNDERSTAND WHY I WOULD NOT MANUALLY OPEN THE DOOR. I HOPE THIS COMPLAINT RESULTS IN A REPLY. THANK YOU *TR

DRIVERS SIDE DOOR ACTUATOR FAILED, COULD NOT UNLOCK OR LOCK DOORS, VERY SCARY. COULD NOT FIGURE OUT WHY I COULD NOT GET OUT OF CAR. THE DOOR LOCK ACTUATOR FAILED. ALSO PASSENGER DOOR LOCK ACTUATOR FAILED AS WELL. THIS WAS REALLY SCARY THAT HONDA HAS A CLASS ACTION LAWSUIT THAT WAS SETTLED BUT DID NOT INCLUDE 2010 CR-V. HAD TO GET THIS FIXED AS IT IS AN EXTREME SAFETY CONCERN THAT HONDA DID NOT WANT TO INCLUDE FIXING THIS ISSUE IN THERE SETTLEMENT AND NOW MAYBE THE NHTSA MIGHT LOOK INTO THIS THIS IS A SAFETY ISSUE.

MY COMPLAINT IS THE SAME AS THE ONE THAT OWNERS OF ANY 2007-2009 HONDA CR-V HAD TO PUT UP WITH: DOOR LOCK ACTUATOR FAILURE. DRIVER'S SIDE REAR DOOR FAILED TO UNLOCK. WILL ONLY UNLOCK MANUALLY, IS NOT RESPONSIVE WHATSOEVER TO THE KEY FOB, OR THE LOCK/UNLOCK BUTTON INSIDE OF THE VEHICLE. THE TAILGATE ALSO WILL NOT UNLOCK BY ANY MEANS, WHICH POSES A SERIOUS SAFETY HAZARD TO THE VEHICLE. I AM ASKING FOR AN EXTENSION OF THE DOOR LOCK ACTUATOR RECALL FROM 2007-2009. WHO IS TO SAY THAT ONCE I REPLACE THIS COSTLY PART FOR $350, THAT I WILL NOT HAVE TO THEN REPLACE ANY OF THE EXISTING 3? THERE ARE MULTIPLE REPORTS ONLINE OF 2010 CR-V OWNERS HAVING THE SAME ISSUE AND THE RECALL SHOULD BE EXTENDED TO ENCOMPASS THE 2010 CR-V VEHICLES.

2010 HONDA CRV.....INSTRUMENT PANEL IS NOT MADE OUT OF NON-GLARE GLASS, THEREFORE, WHEN THE SUN REFLECTS ON IT, CANNOT READ THE SPEEDOMETER AT ALL!!!!! EITHER THE GLASS SHOULD BE REPLACED, OR THE PART OF THE DASHBOARD THAT HANGS OVER THE INSTRUMENT PANEL SHOULD BE MADE LONGER....THIS IS A DRIVING HAZARD!!!! *TR

WE WERE DRIVING ON HIGHWAY ABOUT 65 MPH AND WITHOUT NOTICE THE DASHBOARD LIGHT DISAPPEARED AND THE SPEEDOMETER INDICATED 0 MPH EVEN THOUGH WE WERE GOING ABOUT 65 MPH. WE DECELERATED AND THE SPEEDOMETER REMAINED 0. WE PULLED TO THE SIDE TURNED ENGINE OFF AND RESTARTED AND EVERY THING WAS NORMAL AFTER THAT. CALLED THE DEALER WITH NO FOLLOW UP. *TR