2010 Nissan Altima Electrical System

Batteries continue to go dead, have had at least 8 batteries since 2012. Nissan started charging me for batteries got too be expensive & told them this is a huge concern because I travel alone & if I get stranded this is unsafe for me. Gave me all kinds of excuses as to why batteries are going dead. Again, my car is in the driveway with a dead battery. Thank goodness I wasn't travelling, stopped at a rest area & came out to a dead battery. I have to pull my backup for the mileage reference first time I had a dead battery. I can't upload any information because of not enough memory, but I do have all backup.

This vehicle has a major electrical issue. A long time ago, I used to use my keyfob to open doors remotely and used the push start button to get the car running. I can no longer do this. when I couldn't do this any longer, went through several mechanics. They could not fix this problem. Finally, they had to use a bypass method where now I have to use a different way to start the car. The mechanic had to install a push bypass button. This is how I can only start the car now. 1. I depress the brake paddle 2. Insert the keyfob in a hole (located at the bottom the left side of the steering wheel) 3. Press the start button 4. Then hit this bypass button I don't know if anybody is having this issue but this has become a nuisance for me.

THE AUTOMATIC LOCKS AREN'T WORKING. ONLY THE FRONT PASSENGER AND BACK DRIVERS SIDE WILL LOCK AND UNLOCK WITH THE KEY FOB OR SWITCHES. THE BACK PASSENGER SIDE WILL LOCK WITH THE FOB AND SWITCH, BUT IT WON'T UNLOCK. DRIVERS SIDE HAS TO BE LOCKED AND UNLOCKED MANUALLY.

VEHICLE WAS STATIONARY. ORIGINAL BATTERY WENT DEAD IN 2012, ADDITIONAL BATTERIES INSTALLED IN 2013, 2014, 2015 BY THE DEALER AND TOWED TO THE DEALER. AAA INSTALLED BATTERIES IN 2016 AND MAY OF 2018., I DID NOT GO BACK TO THE DEALER. DEALER TOLD ME FIRST TIME WAS DUE TO THE WEATHER, THEN THEY TOLD ME I WAS NOT PUTTING ENOUGH MILES ON MY CAR, THEY INSTALLED A LARGER BATTERY AND THIS ONE ALSO WENT DEAD. I DID TELL THE DEALER THIS WAS A HUGE SAFETY CONCERN FOR ME BECAUSE MOST OF THE TIME I TRAVEL ALONE BOTH IN-STATE AND OUT-OF STATE, IF MEMORY SERVES ME CORRECTLY THIS IS WHEN THE DEALER INSTALLED A LARGER BATTERY AND THIS ONE ALSO WENT DEAD. DIAGNOSTIC TESTING BY THE DEALER AND MECHANIC SHOWED NOTHING BUT SOMETHING ELECTRICAL IS CAUSING SO MANY BATTERIES TO GO DEAD..I ALSO TOLD NISSAN USA THIS WAS A HUGE SAFETY CONCERN FOR ME. NISSAN USA TOLD ME THERE WERE NO RECALLS WHICH I ALREADY KNEW AND THEY WOULD NOT DO A BUYBACK OR REPAIR. BECAUSE OUT OF WARRANTY, THIS THEY HAD OFFERED TO CHECK INTO FOR ME, PLUS THE DEALER NEVER OFFERED THIS TO ME AFTER REPLACING SO MANY BATTERIES. ALL I HAVE FOR BACKUP ARE MY RECEIPTS WHICH I DIDN'T ATTACH, IF NEEDED PLEASE LET ME KNOW. MECHANIC DID TELL ME IF BATTERY GOES DEAD AGAIN TO GIVE HIM A CALL AND HE WOULD COME TO TRY AND SEE IF HE COULD FIND WHAT WAS THE CAUSE IN THE ELECTRICAL SYSTEM. THIS DIDN'T HAPPEN BECAUSE BATTERY WENT DEAD ON A SATURDAY AND FOUND OUT WHEN I CALLED MONDAY HE ALSO GOT MARRIED OVER THIS WEEKEND AND WAS ON HIS HONEYMOON, BUT MONDAY THEY HAD MY CAR FOR 3 DAYS. I AM THANKFUL SO FAR MY CAR AND NOT GONE DEAD WHEN DRIVING. THANK YOU.

WHEN THE CAR IS TURNED OFF, THE STEERING WHEEL LOCKS AND THE CAR DOES NOT TURN BACK ON. TO TURN THE CAR IN CAN TAKE AN UPWARDS OF 15 MIN OF FIGHTING WITH THE WHEEL. WE BELIEVE THERE IS A PROBLEM WITH THE ESCL.

JUST FILED COMPLAINT # 11000784. FOUND ADDITIONAL INFORMATION ON INTERNET DATED MARCH 7, 2017 - "NISSAN ALTIMA AND MAXIMA STEERING LOCK PROBLEM WILL BE FIXED FOR FREE AFTER THE AUTOMAKER ANNOUNCED A 'SERVICE CAMPAIGN' FOR 243,000 MODEL YEAR 2009-2010 NISSAN ALTIMA, ALTIMA COUPE, ALTIMA HYBRID AND MAXIMA CARS. ALTHOUGH NOT A RECALL, THE SERVICE CAMPAIGN WILL FIX STEERING LOCKS (ECLS) THAT LOCK THE STEERING WHEEL WHEN THE ALTIMA AND MAXIMA CARS ARE PARKED AND TURNED OFF. HOWEVER, THOSE STEERING LOCKS HAVE SERIOUS PROBLEMS AND CAN LEAVE OWNERS AND THEIR CARS SITTING IN PARKING LOTS OR DRIVEWAYS." "NISSAN HAS AGREED TO REPLACE THE STEERING LOCK WITH AN ELECTRONIC STEERING COLUMN BOX AT NO CHARGE FOR PARTS AND LABOR, A JOB THAT SHOULD TAKE AN AUTHORIZED NISSAN DEALER ABOUT AN HOUR TO COMPLETE." "THE ELECTRONIC STEERING COLUMN BOX WILL REPLACE THE ESCL ASSEMBLY BUT WILL NO LONGER LOCK THE STEERING WHEEL WHEN THE CAR IS PARKED AND TURNED OFF. THE AUTOMAKER SAYS THE STEERING WHEEL LOCKING FUNCTION IS NOT NECESSARY BECAUSE THE ALTIMA AND MAXIMA ARE EQUIPPED WITH ANTI-THEFT IMMOBILIZERS TO HELP PREVENT THEFT." "IF YOU HAVE ALREADY PAID FOR REPAIRS TO THE STEERING COLUMN LOCK, NISSAN WILL REIMBURSE WHAT YOU SPENT AS LONG AS YOU CAN SHOW PROOF OF REPAIRS. IF THOSE REPAIRS WERE ABOVE $1,000., YOU'LL NEED TO SHOW PROOF OF OWNERSHIP OF THE CAR." PLEASE ADD THIS TO COMPLAINT #11000784 FILED A FEW MOMENTS BEFORE THIS ONE.

KEY FOB IS INSERTED IN SLOT AND ALL LIGHTS AND GUAGES WILL LIGHT UP, WINDOWS GO UP AND DOWN, DOORS WILL LOCK AND UNLOCK, BUT WHEN BRAKE DEPRESSED AND START PUSH BUTTON IS PRESSED CAR WILL NOT START. BATTERY LESS THAT 6 MONTHS OLD (JUST REPLACED IN ATTEMPT TO FIX PROBLEM). BRAKE SWITCH JUST REPLACED IN ADDITIONAL ATTEMPT TO FIX PROBLEM. NISSAN DEALER IN ST. LOUIS LISTS THIS AS A RECALL FOR 2010 MODELS, DEALER IN MARION, IL SAYS IT IS NOT. MARION DEALER REPLACED TWO PARTS [24167-ZX00J HARNESS -SUB] AND [25320-JN00A SWITCH ASSY-STOP LAMP] AT COST TO CUSTOMER OF $567. FOR PARTS AND LABOR. CAR STILL WOULD NOT START. DEALER STATED THAT ON "TSB" THEY "FOUND SIMILAR CONCERNS" AND ADDITIONAL PARTS NEED TO BE INSTALLED LISTED IN PROCEDURE," AND "CONFIRMED POWER IS SWITCHING AT BCM BUT NOT ENGAGING STARTER NEED TO REPLACE BCM AND DIAG FURTHER - QUOTED CUSTOMER $569.35 TO REPLACE BCM TO FIX OTHER CONCERN" (CAPITALIZATION PER DEALER). I DECLINED. CAR WAS STATIONARY IN DEALER SHOP. I HAVE TRIED TO SPEAK WITH CORPORATE NISSAN, BUT HAVE NOT HAD ANY SATISFACTION. MY PERSONAL MECHANIC (HAS MASTERS DEGREE IN AUTO MECHANICS) SAYS IT IS A RECALL PROBLEM WITH RECALL LISTED ON INTERNET IN MARCH, APRIL AND MAY. DATE GIVEN BELOW IS REPAIR ATTEMPT AT DEALER. ## VIN PASSED ## NISSAN ALTIMA 2010 ##

FRONT WINDOWS WILL ROLL DOWN BY THEMSELVES

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2010 NISSAN ALTIMA. THE CONTACT STATED THAT AFTER STARTING THE VEHICLE, THERE WAS AN ABNORMAL NOISE COMING FROM THE ENGINE. THE VEHICLE BEGAN TO SHAKE UNCONTROLLABLY WITHOUT WARNING. THE FAILURE OCCURRED RANDOMLY. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO A DEALER WHERE IT WAS DIAGNOSED THAT THE ALTERNATOR FAILED AND NEEDED TO REPLACED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE CONTACT ALSO STATED THAT THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO A DEALER SEVERAL TIMES TO BE DIAGNOSED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS APPROXIMATELY 76,087.

THE VEHICLE COULD NOT START WHEN TRYING TO START THE ENGINE, 'THE INSTRUMENT PANEL LIGHTS UP, AND 'THE ENGINE DOES NOT CRANK, (NO CRANK, NO START), (HYBRID 'READY' WILL NOT LIGHT), AND 'THE IGNITION PUSH BUTTON IS NOT RESPONSIVE (NO ACTION OCCURS WHEN THE BUTTON IS PRESSED ADDITIONAL TIMES). THIS HAS HAPPENED MULTIPLE TIMES OVER THE LAST SEVERAL YEARS

I HAVE NUMEROUS STARTING PROBLEMS AND THE VDC,ABS, AND SLIP LIGHT COME ON WHILE DRIVING. SOMETIMES IT CAN TAKE 4 OR 5 TRIES UNTIL THE VEHICLE STARTS WITH THE PUSH BUTTON START. THE BATTERY,ALTERNATOR AND STARTER HAVE BEEN CHECKED AND FOUND TO BE IN GOOD WORKING ORDER. THIS IS A SAFETY ISSUE AS THE NUMEROUS LIGHTS THAT COME ON WHILE DRIVING PRESENT A PROBLEM ESPECIALLY IF THE ABS SYSTEM LIGHT COMES ON WHILE DRIVING.

TAKATA RECAL. WE PURCHASED VEHICLE USED. OUR 2ND ALTIMA. HAD PROBLEMS ABOUT 6 MONTHS AFTER GETTING THE CAR. IT WOULDN'T START. BRAKES WOULDN'T EVEN COMPRESS. REPLACED BATTERY AND WORKED FOR A FEW WEEKS. SAME ISSUE CONTINUED. CABIN LIGHTS WOULD COME ON, NEW BATTERY BUT STILL NOT STARTING. HAD STARTER REPLACED AND WORKED FOR A WHILE AGAIN. SAME ISSUE AGAIN. GET STUCK IN RANDOM PLACES. SOME DAYS IT STARTS, OTHERS IT DOESN'T. CALLING FOR A JUM START DOESN'T WORK EITHER. UNRELIABLE AND UNSTABLE. CALLED DEALERSHIP, MOSSY NISSAN. THEY WANTS OVER $200 JUST FOR DIAGNOSTIC AND THEN COULD BE A NUMBER OF PROBLEMS. ALSO SAID BREAK HARNESS/SWITCH SEEMS TO BE A COMMON PROBLEM. VDC LIGHTS ALSO COME ON AT RANDOM TIMES WHILE DRIVING. THERE SEEMS TO BE A COMMON ISSUE WITH THESE MODELS. NISSAN SHOULD HANDLE ALL REPAIR EXPENSES. CAR WAS STATIONARY AT ALL TIMES IT WOULDN'T START. THIS WEEK IS WOULDN'T START 3 TIMES. LAST WEEK IT WAS 5 TIMES. THE WHOLE MONTH WAS 17 TIMES OUT OF 31 DAYS. PLEASE RECALL.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2010 NISSAN ALTIMA. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE DASHBOARD WAS MELTING AND CREATED A GLOSSED FINISH THAT IMPAIRED THE DRIVERS VISIBILITY WHILE THE SUN WAS SHINNING. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO A DEALER WHERE IT WAS DIAGNOSED THAT THE INTERIOR MATERIAL NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 48,000.

ALL FOUR OF DOOR LOCKS FAILED, WILL NOT LOCK OR UNLOCK PLUS 1 WINDOW FAILED, WILL NOT LOWER.

THIS SPECIALLY ORDERED ALTIMA COUPE 3.5 WOULD NOT START ON SEVERAL OCCASIONS, BEGINNING ONLY A YEAR OR SO AFTER IT WAS DELIVERED TO ME FROM THE FACTORY. EACH TIME, THE BRAKE PEDAL WAS NEXT TO IMPOSSIBLE TO DEPRESS, AND THE CAR MADE CLICKING SOUNDS WHEN THE START PUSH BUTTON WAS PRESSED. SEVERAL JUMP STARTS AFTER THE FIRST TIME THIS HAPPENED, ON A SUNDAY, I DECIDED TO TRY REPLACING THE BATTERY. BECAUSE NISSAN'S SERVICE CENTER WERE NOT OPEN IN MY AREA, I PURCHASED A NEW BATTERY FROM A RETAIL STORE. WHEN I PHONED NISSAN'S SERVICE CENTER THE FOLLOWING MONDAY, I WAS TOLD THAT BECAUSE I DID NOT BRING THE VEHICLE TO THEM (THEY WANTED THE ENTIRE CAR, NOT JUST THE BATTERY, EVEN THOUGH THE NISSAN SHOP WAS CLOSED), I WAS NOT ENTITLED TO A PRORATED REFUND ON THE OLD BATTERY. APPROXIMATELY 1 1/2 - 2 YEARS LATER, THE SAME PROBLEM BEGAN TO HAPPEN AGAIN. AFTER DRIVING THE VEHICLE FOR OVER AN HOUR IN AN ATTEMPT TO RECHARGE THE BATTERY, I SWUNG BY A NISSAN DEALER, WHO TESTED THE NEW BATTERY AND ADVISED THAT IT WAS AT ABOUT 40%. I WAS INSTRUCTED TO TURN EVERYTHING OFF, INCLUDING THE AUTOMATIC HEADLIGHTS, BECAUSE "ALL THE BELLS AND WHISTLES DRAIN THE BATTERY." WHAT'S THE POINT IN HAVING AUTOMATIC HEADLIGHTS IF I HAVE TO SHUT THEM OFF? I HAVE NEVER HAD THIS PROBLEM WITH A VEHICLE BEFORE, AND BATTERIES SHOULD LAST LONGER THAN THIS, ESPECIALLY IN A BRAND NEW CAR. WHEN THIS FIRST BEGAN OCCURRING, THE CAR HAD APPROXIMATELY 20,000 MILES ON IT. AT THIS TIME, THIS CAR HAS LESS THAN 35,000 MILES ON IT. THE NISSAN DEALER WHO TESTED THE BATTERY TOLD ME THIS IS A COMMON PROBLEM WITH THIS MODEL (AND I SEE SIMILAR COMPLAINTS ON THIS WEBSITE), BUT THAT NISSAN IS NOT DOING ANYTHING ABOUT IT. *TR

PURCHASED USED CAR FROM INFINITI DEALER IN FORT MYERS FLORIDA. THREE DAYS LATER I WAS UNABLE TO GET A GAS GAUGE READING AND THE CAR WOULD NOT START. I WAITED A MINUTE AND THE CAR STARTED. THIS HAS HAPPENED 6 TIMES OUT OF THE 10 DAYS I HAVE OWNED THE CAR. I AM READING OTHER COMPLAINTS AND FOUND THAT OTHER OWNERS OF THE 2010 ALTIMA ARE HAVING THE SAME PROBLEM WITH THE CAR NOT STARTING281. I THINK A CAR WITH 26,000 MILES SHOULD START WITHOUT A PROBLEM. *TR

MY 2010 ALTIMA HAD BEEN GOING DEAD FOR THE LAST 3 DAYS. I HAVE TO GET A JUMP A JUMP IN THE AM FOR WORK AND AFTER WORK WHEN I LEAVE. I TOOK THE VEHICLE TO AN AUTO PARTS STORE TO TEST THE BATTERY AND WAS TOLD THE BATTERY WAS EFFICIENT SO I AM PUZZLED AS TO WHY THIS HAS BEEN HAPPENING. I WAS TOLD IT MAY BE THE ALTERNATOR. TODAY MY CAR WOULDN'T START OR EVEN TAKE A JUMP FROM ANOTHER VEHICLE SO I WAS LEFT STUCK. I BELIEVE HERE SHOULD BE A RECALL ON THIS MAKE N MODEL FOR THESE ELECTRICAL ISSUES OR AT LEAST A DISCOUNT ON ALTERNATOR REPLACEMENTS AT THE DEALERSHIP. *TR

PROBLEM WITH BATTERY GOING DEAD, I HAVE READ THERE IS A FAULT IN THE BCM NOT BEING PROGRAMMED PROPERLY. *TR

MY 2010 ALTIMA HAS A PUSH START IGNITION LAST MONTH WHILE VISITING IN PA THE BRAKE LIGHT, VDC, AND SLIP LIGHT CAME ON AND REMAINS ON. WE STOPPED AND THEN THE CAR FAILED TO RESTART. WE WERE ABLE TO GET BACK HOME TO NY AND I TOOK IT TO MY LOCAL DEALER WHERE THEY RAN A DIAGNOSTIC TEST RESULT WAS A BAD BRAKE LIGHT SWITCH. WHICH COMPLETES THE CIRCUIT FROM THE BRAKE TO THE PUSH START BUTTON TO ALLOW THE CAR TO START. I RESEARCHED ON LINE AND FOUND A FEW DIFFERENT FORUMS ONE BEING NISSANCLUB.COM WHERE I FOUND A NUMBER OF PPL WITH THE SAME ISSUE. I CONTACTED NISSAN CUSTOMER AFFAIRS AND GOT NOWHERE. I WAS WONDERING HOW MANY PPL WITH THE SAME ISSUE ARE NEEDED FOR AN ISSUE LIKE THIS TO BE CONSIDERED A RECALL BECAUSE WITH THAT BEING A DAMAGED PART THERE IS NO OTHER WAY TO START THE CAR. *TR

NISSAN ALTIMA 2010 (~25K MILES SO FAR) WOULD NOT START UPON PRESS THE START BUTTON, SO THE CAR IS IMMOBILIZED. WALKED AWAY, CAME BACK 15 MINUTES, AND BY CHANCE, IT STARTED. THIS HAPPEN SEVERAL TIMES FOR THE PAST 2 MONTHS. THE LAST TRY, NO SUCH LUCK WHEN ATTEMPT TO START THE CAR. CHECK THE CAR BATTERY WAS AT 45%. SO I CHARGED THE BATTERY TO 100% AND STILL NO LUCK STARTING THE CAR. CALL NISSANASSIST AND RECOMMENDED THE CAR BE TOWED TO NISSAN AUTHORIZED SERVICE CENTER. I DID AND THEIR DIAGNOSIS ($119.00) ARE A BAD BRAKE SWITCH/WIRING HARNESS COMBO ISSUE AND COST ABOUT OVER $600.00. THE CAR IS NOW OUT OF WARRANTY. THE LOCAL SERVICE MANAGER SAID "OFF THE RECORD", THIS KNOWN DEFECTIVE BRAKE SWITCH WILL NOT ALLOW THE CAR TO START, ALSO IT IS CONSUMING THE BATTERY ELECTRICAL CURRENT AND OVER TIME. THIS CONTINUOUS BLEEDING OF CURRENT WILL HEAT UP THE WIRE HARNESS/CONNECTORS DUE TO THE CAR STARTING AND ITS SECURITY FEATURES, AND THUS EVENTUALLY DRAINING YOUR CAR BATTERY AND DAMAGING THE WIRE HARNESS. THAT IS WHY YOU WILL HAVE A DEAD BATTERY OVER TIME OF 1-2 WEEKS. THIS IS A MONEY MAKING PROPOSITION FOR NISSAN CORPORATION AND THE LOCAL SERVICE PERSON MENTIONED ABOUT A RASH OF BAD SWITCH OCCURRENCES LAST YEAR (2013). IN SHORT, IF YOU DON'T USE THE NISSAN SERVICE DEPARTMENT FOR YOUR CAR AND SPEND $$$ WITH THEM, THE NISSANASSIST WON'T HELP YOU DEFRAY THE COST FOR THE CAR DEFECTIVE AS YOU DID NOT "INVEST" WITH THEM .SO NHTSA, PEOPLE WON'T DIE WITH THIS DEFECTIVE, BUT WILL CAUSE MANY INCONVENIENCES WITH DEAD CARS AT VARIOUS LOCATIONS WHERE DRIVERS TURN OFF THEIR CARS AND FRUSTRATED ON ATTEMPTING TO START THEIR CARS. THIS IS THE SAME PROBLEM NOTED ON NISSAN BLOG AND WEBSITES BY FRUSTRATED NISSAN ALTIMA OWNERS. IN SUMMARY, CAN NHTSA INVESTIGATED AND FORCE NISSAN TO ISSUE A RECALL FOR THIS RECURRING PROBLEM AS NO ONE DIE YET? YES, NO ONE WILL DIE FROM THIS. *TR

MY CAR WOULDN'T START WHEN I PUSHED THE PUSH BUTTON START AND PRESSED ON THE BRAKE PEDAL. LATER THAT DAY THE CAR STARTED. I HAD IT CHECKED AND THE DEALER SAID IF IT HAPPENED AGAIN TO HAVE IT TOWED.YESTERDAY THE CAR WOULDN'T START AGAIN WHEN I PRESSED THE BRAKE PEDAL AND PUSHED THE START BUTTON. AFTER REPEATED ATTEMPTS TO GET THE BRAKE PEDAL TO START THE CAR, IT STARTED. IT IS GOING TO THE DEALER TO BE CHECKED. THE STARTING MECHANISM IS POOR AND UNRELIABLE. *TR

MY 2010 NISSAN ALTIMA HAS HAD DIFFICULTY STARTING. ALL THE ELECTRICAL COMPONENTS WOULD COME ON BUT THE ENGINE WOULDN'T TURNOVER. AT FIRST I COULD GET IT TO START AFTER A FEW TRIES (I WOULD PUMP THE BRAKES, BANG ON THE STEERING WHEEL). THEN I NOTICED WHILE DRIVING THE VDS (TRACTION CONTROL), ABS AND PARKING BRAKE LIGHT WOULD REMAIN ILLUMINATED WHILE DRIVING. THIS MEANT THAT MY VDS WAS NOT FUNCTIONING. IT ALSO MEANT MY BRAKE LIGHTS WEREN'T FUNCTIONING WHILE I WAS DRIVING. ON 6 /01/2014 I TRIED STARTING MY CAR AND COULD NOT. I HAD IT TOWED TO MY AUTO REPAIR SHOP (MAPLE GROVE AUTO, MAPLE GROVE MN) WHERE THE TECHNICIAN INFORMED ME THAT IT REQUIRED A NEW BRAKE LIGHT SWITCH, HARNESS AND BAND HOSES. HE TOLD ME THERE WAS A NISSAN SERVICE BULLETIN AS THIS WAS A "KNOWN ISSUE". SO MUCH SO THAT NISSAN HAD ACTUALLY DEVELOPED A MORE DEPENDABLE BRAKE SWITCH. THE SERVICE BULLETIN NUMBER IS NTB10-139- WHICH WAS RELEASED ON NOVEMBER 23RD 2010. HE TOLD ME TO REPAIR IT WAS GOING TO COST OVER 500.00. THE FAULTY BRAKE SWITCH IS A SAFETY HAZARD AS IT CAUSES THE CAR TO THROW ERROR CODES WHICH DEACTIVATES THE TRACTION CONTROL AND ABS. WHY HAS THIS NOT BEEN A RECALL? WHY DOES IT COST $500 TO REPAIR A MALFUNCTIONING COMPONENT THAT SHORTLY AFTER THE CAR WAS RELEASED, THE MANUFACTURE ACKNOWLEDGED IT WAS FAULTY? WHY WOULD THE NHTSA WAIT UNTIL SOMEBODY DIES IN A CRASH CAUSED BY THE VDS AND ABS FEATURES NOT WORKING BEFORE THEY FORCE A RECALL/REPAIR OF THIS KNOWN ISSUE? *TR

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2010 NISSAN ALTIMA. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE PUSH-TO-START BUTTON FAILED TO RESPOND. THE CONTACT ALSO STATED THAT THE ABS AND THE SLP WARNING LIGHTS ILLUMINATED. THE VEHICLE WOULD START AFTER MULTIPLE ATTEMPTS OR THE VEHICLE WOULD HAVE TO RECEIVE A JUMP START TO THE BATTERY FROM ANOTHER VEHICLE IN ORDER TO START PROPERLY. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO A DEALER FOR DIAGNOSTIC TESTING AND THE MECHANIC STATED THAT THE BRAKE AND THE PARK LIGHT SWITCH FAILED. AS A RESULT THE WIRING HARNESS NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 100.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2010 NISSAN ALTIMA. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE AUTOMATIC PUSH-TO-START IGNITION WOULD NOT OPERATE WHEN ENGAGED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT TAKEN TO A DEALER FOR DIAGNOSTIC TESTING. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 48,000 AND THE CURRENT MILEAGE WAS 49,000. *TR

2010 NISSAN ALTIMA. THE AUTOMATIC PUSH-TO-START IGNITION WOULD NOT OPERATE WHEN ENGAGED. CHECKED BATTERY GOOD, FUSES GOOD. *TR