2009 Chevrolet Impala Electrical System

Smelled an odor of burning wires when using rear defroster. Defroster then stopped working. After further troubleshooting I observed the wire pigtail under the front passenger door was charred and burned. The pin inside the harness that was burned was the rear defroster. After further research I found this is very common for the Chevy impala. However no recall existed. I feel it is a fire risk due to the fact that the wires over heated enough to melt and char the plastic surrounding the electrical pin within the harness. Pictures was taken of the damage.

I have a 2009 with 77000 miles 0n it I have fix the knocking noise under dash 3 times now it is a actuator there are 2 of them. I have also found by spraying Carburetor cleaner in the throttle body just remove the the big air hose and spray all around in side this stops the the speed reduction control lite from coming on saying you have no power. The problem I'm having now is while I'm driving the dash lights go out and radio light goes dim. after a while the lights come back on bright and working great they go on and off when they want to The lights showing me the mileage works great all the time its just the dash lights going on and off and my car just pass smog in California in June. I now live in Texas ,I have to have my car inspection here and it failed do to a EVAP and a 02 sensor not responding. They tell cause I replace the battery this cause the computer to reset and these 2 sensors have not reset yet and I have to drive the car 100 miles to make sure they reset to the computer So these are the problems I have been having with my car. You can find your car problem on you tube by putting in the year and make of your car saying what light came up and usually its a easy fix

The contact owns a 2009 Chevrolet Impala. The contact stated that upon attempting to start the vehicle, the vehicle failed to start as intended. The contact then observed smoke coming from the engine compartment. The check engine warning light was illuminated. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic, who diagnosed a failure with the wiring harness and observed that the wiring was exposed. The vehicle was not repaired. After investigating the failure, the contact related the failure to NHTSA Campaign Number: 14V355000 (Electrical System), but the VIN was not included. The manufacturer was not notified of the failure. The failure mileage was 222,000.

Throttle body and throttle pedal

Driving home one night, August 8th, 2023 (thank goodness it was night) took a turn and got a service traction control light with a ding ding ding noise (I assume to alert me that something is wrong) and then it said engine power reduced which I assume happens because if your traction control is bad, it doesn’t want you slipping. Immediately called my father and he said to just drive it home and we’ll check it out. Not 2 miles later, my engine just stopped and it went into ignition. I couldn’t steer, I couldn’t stop because the engine was no longer running. I’ve driven a time or 2 (more like backed up) when I didn’t turn my key all the way and it was in ignition and that’s how it felt because it wasn’t on. This was very scary because I thought the car had just gave out. The engine just stopped and I got warning saying "STARTING DISABLED, SERVICE ENGINE THROTTLE " this is my first car, and after reading the complaints on it, I thought it was a recall. We ended up changing out the gas pedal, which made the problem go away right away, and I haven’t had issues with it since. Failure Mileage: 175K

This is a follow up on air bag heat ac controls and dash operation found gauge cluster burned out smoked blew a 1 amp fuse under hood last owners were under dashboard because screws were missing This year of car had 4 recalls airbags under the right seat wires.my car was not included because of production date there is something GM MISSED ON THIS CAR ELECTRIC AREAS CARIS DRIVEN CAREFULLY SOMETHING MADE THAT HAPPEN CAN YOU LOOK FURTHER INTO THIS MATTER ITIS COSTING ME MORE THAN CAR

IN APPROX 2013-2014 ACTUATOR AFFECTING HEATING AND COOLING IN THE VEHICLE NEEDED REPLACED, THEN AGAIN ACTUATOR NEEDED REPLACEMENT IN 2016-17 AND AGAIN NOW. THE PROBLEM KEEPS OCCURRING. THIS IS AFFECTING THE ABILITY TO OPERATE THE VEHICLE DURING EXTREME TEMPERATURES WE EXPERIENCE. ACTUATOR MAKING HORRIBLE CLICKING SOUND AND CAR WILL NOT HEAT UP OR COOL DOWN AS APPROPRIATE 1ST OCCURS APPROXIMATELY 2013-2014 AROUND 90,000 MILES, AND AGAIN APPROXIMATELY 2016-17 AND AGAIN IN 2021

I HAVE PAID TO HAVE ACTUATORS ON BOTH SIDES REPAIRED FROM ABOUT A MONTH AFTER PURCHASED 5-11-2012 TO 6-2020 A TOTAL OF 8 TIMES. THE LAST TIME IN DECEMBER 2029 AND IT STARTED CLICKING A FEW WEEKS AFTER REPAIR. IT STARTS CLICKING AS SOON AS I UNLOCK THE DOORS AND CONTINUES TO CLICK AFTER LOCKING DOORS. I RETIRED DUE TO HEALTH FIVE YEARS AGO AND UNABLE TO GET ANOTHER CAR. I CAN NOT AFFORD TO KEEP REPAIRING ACTUATORS. I HAVE WRITTEN TO GM AND CALLED ASKING THAT THIS BE MADE INTO SOMETHING THEY WOULD REPAIR NO CHARGE AS I HAVE SINCE TALKED WITH SEVERAL PEOPLE HAVING THE SAME PROBLEM. I HAVE TO USE THE THE CAR DRIVE MY HUSBAND TO VA FOR TREATMENTS AND DOCTOR APPOINTMENTS AND IT GET VERY WORRISOME AS I HAVE TO DRIVE 140 MILES ROUND TRIP EACH TIME. ALL I ASK IS FOR GM TO AKNOWLEDGE THIS PROBLEM AND FIX MY CAR.

IT WILL NOT CRANK I INSTALLED A BRAND NEW STARTER THE IGNITION SWITCH IS THE PROBLEM

SPEEDOMETER CAUGHT ON FIRE AND BURNT OUT THE ELECTRICAL WIRES

STARTED WITH THE AUTOLOCK DOORS FAIL SOMETIMES, THEN THE CAR STARTED SHUTTING OFF AND NOT STARTING I'VE HAD IT IN THE GARAGE TWICE,TO NO AVAIL IT ENDED UP BEING TOWED BACK TO MY RESIDENCE TWO DAYS AFTER REPAIR. REPLACED THE BATTERY, THE BATTERY CABLE AND A RELAY

I PLACED THE CAR IN PARK ON THE STREET IN MY COMMUNITY, AND LEFT IT RUNNING WHILE DROPPING SOMETHING IN A MAILBOX. TRIED TO SHIFT INTO DRIVE TO LEAVE, AND IT WOULD NOT SHIFT. MY FOOT WAS FIRMLY ON THE BRAKE BUT THE CONSOLE SHIFTER WOULD NOT BUDGE. I WAS FORCED TO LEAVE MY CAR JUST A FEW DOORS AWAY FROM HOME UNTIL THE NEXT DAY WHEN MY SON CAME AND SHOWED ME HOW TO REMOVE THE CONSOLE COVER TO PRESS THE SILVER BUTTON AND RELEASE THE SHIFT. I HAVE SEEN MANY COMPLAINTS ABOUT A BTSI (?) SOLENOID OR LOOSE WIRES. WHY IS THERE NO RECALL? BEING STUCK COULD BE VERY HAZARDOUS TO SAFETY.

MY CAR OCCASIONALLY MAKES A TICKING NOISE FROM THE DASH. THIS COMES AND GOES PERIODICALLY. IT STARTS WHEN I OPEN THE DOOR (ANY DOOR) AND CONTINUES FOR ABOUT A MINUTE. IN THE PERIOD WHEN THIS NOISE COMES AND GOES THE DOORS WILL AUTOMATICALLY LOCK, I.E. IF I STEP OUT OF THE CAR (RUNNING OR NOT) AND SHUT THE DOOR IT WILL AUTOMATICALLY LOCK EVEN IF I DID NOT HIT THE LOCK BUTTON AND EVEN IF I DO HIT THE UNLOCK BUTTON. TWICE THIS HAS OCCURRED WHEN THE CAR WAS RUNNING AND MY DOG WAS IN THE VEHICLE (ALONG WITH MY PURSE AND KEYS) CAUSING ME MUST DISTRESS. I BELIEVE THIS IS SOMETHING FAULTY IN THE MAKE OF THE CAR. BY THE TIME I GET TO A DEALERSHIP TO HAVE IT CHECKED OUT THE CLICKING HAS STOPPED OR IT IS NOT LOCKING AUTOMATICALLY. THE DEALER SAYS IT HAS TO BE HAPPENING WHILE THE NOISE IS ONGOING. THERE ARE NO LIGHTS ON THE DASH TO INDICATE A PROBLEM. THIS FIRST STARTED ABOUT A YEAR AGO AND THE MOST RECENT INCIDENT WAS TODAY (THE DATE LISTED BELOW). THANK YOU FOR YOUR TIME.

DRIVER DOOR DOES NOT ALWAYS UNLOCK WHEN PLACED IN PARK, WHEN USING THE UNCLOCK BUTTON OR KEY FOB. THE DOOR ALSO DOESN'T LOCK WHEN USING THE ELECTRIC BUTTON OR KEY FOB. THERE IS OFTEN THE NEED TO MANUALLY UNLOCK AND LOCK THE DOOR USING THE "STEM". MY CONCERN IS AND REMAINS TO BE THE NECESSITY TO QUICKLY EXIT IN AN EMERGENCY, SUCH AS A FIRE, ACCIDENT OR CAR JACKING. MOST WOULD PANIC AND NOT REACT QUICKLY ENOUGH TO MANUALLY DISABLE/ENGAGE THE LOCK. THIS HAS BEEN AN ONGOING AND LONG TERM PROBLEM.

KEY GETS STUCK IN IGNITION, RAP FUSE BLOWS, THEN WHEN INSERTING NEW RAP FUSE (10 AMP) IT SHORTS BEFORE THE FUSE CAN BE PLACED IN THE FUSE BOX. THIS SEEMS TO BE A COMMON PROBLEM IN MANY CHEVROLET VEHICLES. STATIONARY WHEN THIS HAPPENED (SHIFTING INTO PARK), ACCESSING ELECTRICAL FUSE BOX IS A SAFETY ISSUE (APPEARS TO BE SOMETHING LIVE THAT CAUSES THE NEW FUSE TO BLOW). SAFETY DUE TO INABILITY TO GET KEY OUT AND RESULTANT DEAD BATTERY, FAILURE TO START, ETC. THE SHORTING OF THE RAP FUSE AND THE RESULTANT INABILITY TO REMOVE THE KEY COULD TURN INTO A LARGER SAFETY ISSUE, GM SHOULD INVESTIGATE AND ISSUE A TSB.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2009 CHEVROLET IMPALA. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE STABILITY TRACTION CONTROL, REDUCED ENGINE POWER, AND BRAKE WARNING INDICATORS ILLUMINATED ON THE INSTRUMENT PANEL. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO THE DEALER, BUT THE FAILURE COULD NOT BE DUPLICATED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 120,000.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2009 CHEVROLET IMPALA. AFTER THE VEHICLE WAS REPAIRED PER NHTSA CAMPAIGN NUMBER: 16V507000 (AIR BAGS, ELECTRICAL SYSTEM) AND WHILE ATTEMPTING TO START THE VEHICLE, THE AIR BAG WARNING INDICATOR ILLUMINATED. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN BACK TO THE DEALER WHERE IT WAS DIAGNOSED THAT THE WIRES NEEDED TO BE WRAPPED. THE VEHICLE WAS REPAIRED. AFTER THE REPAIRS WERE PERFORMED, "SERVICE TRANSACTION" DISPLAYED ACROSS THE MESSAGE BOARD AND THE ABS WARNING INDICATOR ILLUMINATED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURES. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 90,517.

MY WIFE WAS DRIVING HER 2009 IMPALA HOME FROM WORK AT 1230 AM WHEN THE TRACTION CONTROL LIGHT AND THE REDUCED POWER LIGHT CAME ON AND THE CAR SHUT DOWN COMPLETELY . GOOD THING SHE WASN'T IN THE BAD PART OF TOWN BECAUSE IT WOULDNT START FOR ABT 15 MIN. I ALWAYS BUY AMERICAN AUTOS BUT NEXT TIME IT WONT BE A CHEVROLET UNLESS WE GET THE PROBLEM FIXED FREE.THIS PROBLEM HAS HAPPENED MULTIPAL TIMES

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2009 CHEVROLET IMPALA. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE VEHICLE MADE AN ABNORMAL NOISE WHEN THE A/C WAS DEACTIVATED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT DIAGNOSED OR REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT NOTIFIED OF FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS APPROXIMATELY 35,000.

DOOR LOCKS! THE REAR CAR DOOR LOCKS (ACTUATORS) WILL NOT OPEN WITH THE KEY FOB, OR WITH THE POWER DOOR LOCK BUTTON. THIS HAPPENED WITH THE CAR STOPPED. MY CHILDREN NOW HAVE TO WAIT FOR ME TO PUT THE WINDOW DOWN TO UNLOCK THEIR DOORS MANUALLY. THIS HAPPENED AT ABOUT 32,000 MILES.

HEAT / AIR ACTUATOR. THE MOTOR THAT CONTROLS THE HEAT / AIR IN THE DASH ON THE PASSENGER SIDE STARTED TO MAKE A HORRIBLE CLICKING NOISE WHEN THE CAR WAS OFF OR ON. IT WOULD START WHEN THE CAR DOOR WAS OPENED OR WHEN THE CAR WAS STARTED. I HAD TO TAKE IT TO A MECHANIC TO BE REPAIRED (NOT A DEALER...NOT GIVING THEM ANY MORE OF MY MONEY). IT COST OVER $200 TO BE REPAIRED.

WHEN STATIONARY AND WHEN INITIALLY MOVING, THE VEHICLE MAKES A LOUD CLICKING SOUND WHICH SEEMS TO ORIGINATE INSIDE DASH BOARD. UPON LOOKING THIS ISSUE UP ONLINE MANY HAVE STATED A BAD ACTUATOR BEING THE CAUSE. THIS DEFINITELY APPEARS TO BE A MANUFACTURER DEFECT.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2009 CHEVROLET IMPALA. THE CONTACT STATED THAT IT TOOK SEVERAL ATTEMPTS TO START THE VEHICLE AFTER THE CHECK ENGINE, BATTERY, AND SERVICE AIR BAG WARNING INDICATORS ILLUMINATED. THE FAILURE RECURRED ON SEVERAL OCCASIONS, ESPECIALLY DURING COOLER WEATHER. ON SEVERAL OCCASIONS, WHEN THE AIR CONDITIONER OR HEATER WAS ACTIVATED, THERE WAS A LOUD CLICKING SOUND THAT LASTED FOR APPROXIMATELY THREE MINUTES WITHOUT WARNING. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO AN INDEPENDENT MECHANIC, BUT WAS NOT DIAGNOSED OR REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE AND INFORMED THE CONTACT THAT THE VIN WAS NOT INCLUDED IN NHTSA CAMPAIGN NUMBER: 14V355000 (ELECTRICAL SYSTEM). THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 180,000.

EVEN WHEN CAR IS NOT RUNNING, LOUD CLICKING. CAN BE HEARD OUTSIDE OF CAR. PEOPLE ASK WHY IS YOUR CAR "TICKING" WHEN IN PARKING LOTS. TOUGH TO EXPLAIN AS OF LATE WITH FEARS OF ISIS TERROR THREATS. REPORTS SAY AC ACCUATOR, $400 TO REPLACE. GM NEEDS TO CORRECT THIS BEFORE IMPALAS ARE MISTAKENLY DEEMED THREATS WHEN SITTING IN PARKING LOTS.

THE RADIO HAS A SHORT IN IT AND HAS DRAINED TWO BRAND NEW BATTERIES AFTER IT SIT FOR OVER 12 HOURS.