2013 Honda CR-V Electrical System

Odometer Fraud. The contact purchased a 2013 Honda CR-V. The contact stated that while attempting to register the vehicle, it was discovered that there was a mileage discrepancy. The vehicle was an independent dealer sale. At the time of purchase, the vehicle mileage was 164,000 and at the time of registration, it was discovered that the mileage was 200,000.

Driver side doesn’t blow hot air. Especially, in winter it has been a problem with fogging windows and windshield. It is very unsafe because of very poor visibility. I see this has been a very common issue with many Honda CRV vehicles. Hope NHTSA will take this seriously. Thank you.

My 2013 Honda crv LX locks keep locking and unlocking by itself replaced drivers side lock actuator still has the same problem replaced with OEM.

Electronic power steering intermittently fails, mostly on low speed turns. Local Honda dealership has had the car two weeks, can’t find any error codes upon investigation. Yet problem still happens.

My Honda CRV- 2013 has door locking and unlocking on its own, mainly located on the passenger side. This happens even when I am driving. My locks will just start locking and unlocking repeatedly like there is a short in the system. This is causing some type of serious drain on my brand-new battery which I just bought 2 weeks ago. Somehow the door locks are causing my entire battery to go Dead. I have had to jump-start my car these past few days! this a serious and defect that is all over the internet.

THIS IS A PROBLEM WITH SEVERAL THINGS IN THE CAR AT DIFFERENT INTERVALS.THE STABILITY CONTROL WARNING LIGHT CAME "VSR INDICATOR", THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT, THE ELECTRIC STEERING INDICATOR "EPS" LIGHTS CAME ON AT THE SAME TIME WHILE DRIVING. I DID NOT NOTICE ANY PROBLEMS WITH STEERING. WHEN I GOT TO MY DESTINATION AND RESTARTED THE CAR ALL THE INDICATOR LIGHTS WERE OFF. THE CRUISE CONTROL WOULD NOT WORK WHEN I FIRST STARTED THE CAR. AFTER I PULL OVER AND STOP AND RESTART THE CAR THE CRUISE WOULD START WORKING. WHEN FIRST START THE CAR IN THE MORNING THE RADIO WOULD BE ON BUT NO SOUND. IT WORKS WHEN I RESTART THE CAR. WHEN I FIRST START THE CAR ALL THE RADIO STATION PRESETS GET RESET TO "0" SOMETIMES. I HAVE NEVER SEEN THE RADIO PRESETS AT "0" ON ANY CAR. TODAY THE STABILITY LIGHT AND STEERING WHEEL LIGHT IS ON AND THE CRUISE CONTROL WILL WORK FOR ABOUT 5 MINUTES. WHEN I RESTART THE CRUISE CONTROL WILL WORK AGAIN.

I HAVE HUM INSTALLED. I KEEP GETTING "ISSUES WITH BATTERY" . YOUR CAR MAY NOT START DUE TO LOSS OF CHARGE IN BATTERY. I AM DISABLED AND CANNOT AFFORD FOR THIS TO HAPPEN OUT OF THE CLEAR BLUE. THANK YOU I REALLY HAVE NO IDEA OF WHEN THIS OCURRED, BUT DID HAVE NEW BATTERY INSTALLED FOR $ 169.00 AT DEALERSHIP AND STILL GETTING WARNING FROM HUM.

BATTERY ISSUE ,IT DIE WITH OUT NO RISEN ,THE THE TRIPLE AAA TEST [ CHARGING SYSTEM TEST] NO PROBLEM .IT HAPPEN SO MANY TIMES .WHAT CAN I DO?

CAR WOULD NOT START AT HOME. UNSURE HOW IT MADE IT HOME. FOUND BATTERY HAD LEAKED AND COMPLETELY CORRODED THROUGH COPPER WIRE BRAID USED ON POSITIVE BATTERY CABLE INSTEAD OF A PROPER BATTERY POST CLAMP. LOST ALL CONNECTIVITY TO STARTER. CORROSION INFILTRATED WIRE TO STARTER. INTERNET SEARCH SHOWS NUMEROUS HONDA CUSTOMERS WITH DIFFERENT MODELS DATING BACK TO 2002 OR SO WITH SAME PROBLEM. DEALER PRICE OF WIRING HARNESS AT $800 PLUS LABOR AND BATTERY AT APPROX. $117. ADD POSSIBLE TOWING CHARGES, TOTAL COST TO FIX = $1,000 - $2,000. 1) BATTERY SHOULD LAST MORE THAN 3-4 YEARS 2) USE OF WIRE BRAID INSTEAD OF PROPER BATTERY POST CLAMP IS DESIGN FLAW APPEARS NO RECALL HAS BEEN ISSUED. HONDA WEBSITE HAS NO FACILITY TO REGISTER COMPLAINTS ONLINE. CUSTOMER SERVICE PAGE FOR THAT PURPOSE DID NOT WORK.

WIRING HARNESS WAS CHEWED BY RODENTS.EXPENSE WAS $1350. DEALER SAID IT WAS NOT COVERED UNDER WARRANTY. SOLD ME RODENT TAPE FOR THE OTHER WIRES THAT WERE NOT REPLACED.

CPSC: 2013 HONDA CR-V: CONSUMER STATED HE IS ONLY ABLE TO HEAR THE TURN SIGNAL IF THE AIR CONDITIONER, AND RADIO HAS BEEN TURNED OFF, AND THE SIGNAL DOES NOT SHOW ON THE DASH. *SS

ON MY 4TH BATTERY, THEY KEEP DYING LEAVING US STRANDED. SOFTWARE WAS UPDATED BY DEALER THERE IS A INTERNAL HONDA MEMO HOW TO RESOLVE BUT IT DID NOT WORK. NO CURRENT DRAIN THEY CHECKED. JUST TODAY WITH A 15 MONTH OLD BATTERY IT DIED AND YET AGAIN THE BATTERY NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. ONLY SOLUTION IS TO REPLACE BATTERY EACH YEAR. BAD DESIGN MY LOYALTY TO HONDA IS FADING FAST.

DOOR LOCKS LOCKING/UNLOCKING WHILE DRIVING. ALSO, PASSENGER FRONT DOOR WON'T LOCK EITHER WITH KEY FOB OR MANUALLY.

MY CAR HAD LESS THAN 34,000 AND I WENT TO START IT AND IT WAS TOTALLY DEAD. IT WOULD NOT TAKE A JUMP, I HAD TO HAD IT TOWED AND IT TURNED OUT IT HAD A DEAD CELL AND I HAD TO REPLACE THE BATTERY. THE LAST CAR I HAD THE BATTERY WAS OVER 10 YEARS OLD. THIS CAR IS OVER 3 YEARS SO THERE WAS NO WARRANTY ON IT. JUST FEEL THIS SHOULD BE CHECKED INTO.

THE REAR LIFTGATE AND REAR PASSENGER DOOR FAILED TO OPEN WHEN I USED THE REMOTE TO UNLOCK THE VEHICLE. THE REAR LIFTGATE DID OPEN AFTER THE THIRD TRY WITH THE REMOTE KEY FOB. THE PASSENGER SIDE REAR DOOR WILL NOT OPEN BY EITHER THE EXTERIOR OR INTERIOR DOOR HANDLE. I ENGAGED AND DISENGAGED THE REAR SEAT CHILD LOCK SEVERAL TIMES AND ATTEMPTED TO OPEN THE DOOR, THE DOOR STILL WILL NOT OPEN. UPDATED 09/15/15*LJ *CN

BATTERY WAS GOING DEAD PERIODICALLY. THOUGHT I WAS LEAVING A LIGHT ON OR DOOR OPEN. TOLD THE HONDA DEALER TO CHECK THE BATTERY WHILE IT WAS UNDER WARRANTY. THEY NEVER CHECKED IT. DIDNT EVEN PUT THAT I ASKED TO CHECK IT. OUT OF WARRANTY BATTERY WENT DEAD. DID A CHECK AT AUTOZONE THEY SAID IT WAS THE ALTENATOR. CHANGED ALTENATOR STILL THE SAME PROBLEM. VOLTAGE REGULATOR. THE VOLTS ONLY STAY UP WHEN I KEEP THE HEADLIGHTS ON. ( MORE TO THIS STORY ABOUT MY BAD DEALERSHIP EXPERIENCE BUT DON'T WANT TO GET INTO IT) *JS

AT WORK, FINISHED MY SHIFT, MOVE CAR TO EXIT, TURN CAR OFF WENT IN SWIPE MY CARD GET IN CAR PUT KEY IN TO START AND CAR ENGINE WOULD NOT TURN OVER, ALL LIGHTS LIGHTS ON IN CAR, WINDOWS WORKS BUT BATTERY WOULDN'T START...THIS HAPPENED THREE TIMES AT WORK, I HAD TO JUMP START, ENGINE STARTS UP AT FIRST TURN OVER...MY CAR HAVE A VERY RATTLES SOUND WHEN I PUT KEY IN TO START AT ALL TIMES, IS LIKE I EXCEED THE TURNING POINT BUT I DON'T. I TURNED KEY NATURALLY TO START BUT STARTER STILL RATTLES...I BELIEVED IT'S A STARTER PROBLEM AND IT'S SCARING ME, MY CAR IS JUST ONE YEAR OLD, I BOUGHT IT LAST YEAR SEPTEMBER OF 2013... *TR

BLUE OX PATRIOT BRAKING SYSTEM/2013 HONDA CRV. CONSUMER WRITES IN REGARDS TO VEHICLE BEING TOWED WITH A SUPPLEMENTAL BRAKING SYSTEM. *SMD THE CONSUMER STATED, TWICE WHILE RETURNING FROM A RECENT TRIP, THE SUPPLEMENTAL BRAKE SYSTEM LOCKED THE BRAKES DOWN ON HIS 2013 HONDA CRAB, THAT WAS BEING TOWED FOR NO APPARENT REASON. ON BOTH OCCASIONS, HE WAS SLOWING DOWN GRADUALLY AND MAKING A SLIGHT TURN FROM ONE LANE TO THE NEXT. ON THE FIRST OCCASION, HE WAS GOING AROUND 30-35 MPH. ON THE SECOND, HE WAS EXITING A BUSY I-95 AND GOING AROUND 55 MPH. THE FULL FORCE PANIC STOP ISSUED BY THE SUPPLEMENTAL BRAKE PRACTICALLY STOPPED HIS MATRON. IT FLAT-SPOTTED ALL OF THE TIRES. THE CONSUMER NOTIFIED BLUE OX, OF THE INCIDENT. THEY AGREED TO ALLOW HIM TO RETURN THE BRAKING SYSTEM FOR AN EVALUATION TO DETERMINE WHY THE INCIDENTS MIGHT HAVE OCCURRED. AFTER A FEW WEEKS, HE FINALLY HAD TO CALL THEM, ONLY TO BE INFORMED THE UNIT PASSED ALL THE TESTS AND IT WAS NOT THEIR FAULT. BLUE OX, RETURNED THE BRAKING SYSTEM WITH NO COMMENT. *JB

THE CAR COMES WITH A BATTERY OF INSUFFICIENT SIZE AND AN INADEQUATE CHARGING SYSTEM. THE VEHICLE SHOULD NOT NEED JUMP STARTING AFTER NORMAL DRIVING CONDITIONS WITH A FAIRLY NEW BATTERY. THE 1ST TIME IT HAPPENED WAS AFTER 3 MONTHS AND AGAIN AT 6 MONTHS. SUGGESTED SOLUTIONS INCLUDE TURNING OFF ECONMODE, RIDING IN D3 OR 2ND, OR TAKING LONG RIDES AT FREEWAY SPEEDS. THE CAR WAS NOT ADVERTISED AS BEING THIS DEFECTIVE FOR EVERYDAY DRIVING. IT ALSO HAS POOR HIGH BEAMS AND FREEZING WINDSHIELD WASHERS. *TR

FIRST, SECOND AND THIRD INCIDENT, PERTAINED OF ALL 4 DOORS LOCKING AND UNLOCKING REPEATEDLY, BY THEMSELVES WHILE THE VEHICLE WAS IN DRIVE, GOING DOWN THE FREEWAY AND ON SURFACE STREETS. THE MOST REENT INCIDENT WAS 12/16/13. THE VEHICLE WOULD NOT UNLOCK. I USED BOTH THE AFTER MARKET REMOTE START FOB, THE FOB ON THE ORIGINAL FACTORY KEY AND ALSO THE MANUAL UNLOCK BY PUTTING THE KEY IN THE DOOR. AFTER 2 HOURS OF CONSTANTLY PUSHING BUTTONS AND CHECKING ALL ENTRANCES TO THE VEHICLE, THE VEHICLE UNLOCKED ON IT'S OWN, WITHOUT PUSHING ANY OF THE BUTTONS. MY 15 MONTH OLD CHILD AND I WERE LITERALLY STRANDED FOR THESE 2 HOURS UNTIL A TOW TRUCK COULD COME TO US. NOT TO MENTION THAT THE CAR UNLOCKED ITSELF ON IT'S OWN RIGHT BEFORE THE TOW COMPANY SHOWED UP. WHAT IF MY CHILD HAD BEEN INSIDE OF THE VEHICLE WHEN THIS HAPPENED???? *TR