2016 Honda CR-V Electrical System

THE AMBIENT TEMPERATURE HAS AN EFFECT ON THE SWITCH THAT OPENS THE REAR HATCH ON THE CAR. IF THE TEMPERATURE IS IN THE 30'S IT WILL NOT OPEN UNTIL THE CARS HEATER WARMS THE INTERIOR OF THE CAR SUFFICIENTLY.THIS IS AN ELECTRIC SWITCH THAT MAY BE DEPRESSED ON EITHER SIDE. PRESSURE ON THE SWITCH IS NOT A FACTOR. I HAVE HELD THE SWITCH FOR 30 TO 60 SECONDS ON A COLD MORNING WITH NO RESULTS. THIS HAPPENS WHEN THE CAR HAS BEEN PARKED FOR SEVERAL HOURS EVEN IN A GARAGE. TEMPERATURE SEEMS TO BE THE ONLY FACTOR. THERE IS NO OTHER WAY TO RELEASE THE HATCH LATCH OTHER THAN THE PRESSURE SWITCH ON THE REAR GATE. THIS HAS BEEN A CONSTANT PROBLEM SINCE THE CAR WAS NEW AND CONTINUES TO DATE.I HAVE SEEN SIMILAR COMPLAINTS ON BLOGS FROM CRV OWNERS WITH NO SOLUTION FROM DEALERS.

IGNITION STARTED MAKING A ZAPPING NOISE UPON STARTING. I WOULD THEN HAVE TO TRY TO START AGAIN. ONE DAY IT FINALLY DIDN'T START AT ALL. THEY STATED MY BATTERY WAS NO GOOD AFTER APPROXIMATELY 28K MILES. FAST FORWARD 7 MONTHS LATER AND THE IGNITION IS MAKING THE SAME ZAPPING NOISE YET AGAIN. AFTER LOOKING ONLINE, THERE ARE SEVERAL OTHER PEOPLE HAVING THE SAME ISSUE WITH THIS MAKE AND MODEL

REAR TRUNK / HATCH WILL NOT OPEN WHEN TEMPERATURES ARE BELOW FREEZING. HAS OCCURRED MANY TIMES. DEALER DUPLICATED THE ISSUE AND REPLACED THE SWITCH STATING THAT THEY VERIFIED COMMUNICATION WAS LOST TO THE SWITCH WHEN COLD. THE ISSUE STILL OCCURS EVEN AFTER REPLACEMENT, BUT DEALER STATES ALL THEY CAN DO IS REPLACE AGAIN BECAUSE NO RECALL HAS BEEN ISSUED BY HONDA.

HI EVERYONE, I HAD A FEW TYPO'S. 1). THE ELECTORAL DIDN'T PASS AND AMERICAN HONDA WOULDN'T HELP. THANKS

ON 02/12/2016 I WAS PULLING OUT OF MY GARAGE AND EVERYTHING WAS FINE AT THAT MOMENT, THEM I WENT TO TURN MY 2016 CRV IT WAS ONLY GOING ABOUT 1 1/2 MILES PER HOUR, BUT THE CRV WOULD NOT STOP, THE CAR ONLY HAD 3,924 MILE TOO. SO I HIT MY NEIGHBORS GARAGE DOOR AND SIDE OF HER HOME AND THE CAR STOP AFTER IT WENT OVER HER FOUNDATION OF HER HOME. I LOOKED DOWN AND SAW THAT I WAS PRESSING AS HARD AS I COULD ON THE BRAKE BUT IT DIDN'T WORK. THIS ALL TOOK ABOUT 20 SECONDS, TO FAST. I HAD THE BRAKES CHECK WHICH MECHANICALLY PASS ALL TEST 100%. BUT ON THE ELECTORAL DID PASS. 2 CODE CAME UP. 1). U300616 - POWER SOURCE FAILURE FOR ECU (LOW VOLTAGE) FOR THE ANTI-LOCK BRAKE AND THE SAME CODE FOR TIRE PRESSURE. SO IT NOT THE MECHANIC OF THE CRV IT'S THE ECU BOX THE BOX WHICH EVERYTHING GOES THRU. SO IT'S ELECTRICAL NOT MECHANICAL. AND YOU NEVER KNOW WHEN IT WILL HAPPEN AGAIN. THE 2016 CRV SHOULD BE RECALLED ON THE ECU BOX. I NEVER WILL DRIVE THE CRV AGAIN. YOU COULD REALLY KILL SOMEONE. THE NATIONAL HIGHWAY TRAFFIC SAFETY ADMINISTRATION SHOULD LOOK DEEP INTO THIS AND HAVE A RECALL. I DID CONTACT AMERICAN HONDA CORPORATION AND THEY DID RESEARCH IT, BUT I WAS GOING ON THAT IT WAS MECHANICAL NOT ELECTRICAL. AMERICAN HONDA WOULD HELP. SOMETHING NEEDS TO BE DONE, SO I HOPE THE NHTSA LOOKS INTO THIS.

WHEN TEMPERATURES GET COLD, THE BUTTON TO OPEN THE REAR HATCH WILL NOT WORK. THIS CAUSES THE OWNER TO NOT BE ABLE TO ACCESS THE TRUNK

OEM BATTERY FAILURES. CAR WOULD NOT START. STOPPED ON CITY STREET. SAFETY ISSUE. FAILED AT HOME TOO. MANUFACTURER DEFECT.

LOCK-OUT WITH KEY FOB INSIDE THE CAR, CAR WAS NOT RUNNING, PARKED AT WORK. THE CAR BASICALLY 'LOCKED' ME OUT WHEN I PUT MY PURSE AND KEYS INTO THE CAR, OPENED THE HOOD SO I COULD FILL THE WIPER FLUID RESERVOIR , CLOSED THE DOOR TO GET WIPER FLUID OUT OF THE BACK AND THE CAR LOCKED THE DOORS. ACCORDING TO THE LOCKSMITH THAT OPENED MY CAR, THIS IS A WELL KNOWN PROBLEM - AND NOT JUST WITH HONDA CARS. THANK GOODNESS I WAS STILL AT WORK AND IN A SAFE LOCATION.

RODENTS CHEWED THROUGH THE WIRING FOR THE ELECTRIC POWER STEERING CAUSING IT TO FAIL. FORTUNATELY THIS HAPPENED IN THE PARKING LOT AT THE APPARTMENT AND WAS ABLE TO BE MANUVERED INTO A SAFE PARKING SPACE.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNED A 2016 HONDA CR-V. WHILE DRIVING 15 MPH AND MAKING A LEFT TURN, THE CONTACT CRASHED INTO ANOTHER VEHICLE. THE AIR BAGS DID NOT DEPLOY. THE CONTACT STATED THAT A SPARK WAS OBSERVED NEAR THE FLOORBOARD ON THE PASSENGER SIDE AND A FIRE IGNITED. THE FIRE DEPARTMENT EXTINGUISHED THE FIRE. A POLICE REPORT WAS FILED AND THERE WERE NO INJURIES. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT DIAGNOSED FOR THE FAILURE. THE LOCAL DEALER WAS NOT CONTACTED. THE VEHICLE WAS DESTROYED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE AND THE CONTACT WAS AWAITING A CALL BACK. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS APPROXIMATELY 1,200.

THE CAR OPERATES ON A KEYLESS IGNITION, AND USES PUSH BUTTON START. THE ISSUE IS, ONCE THE CAR IS RUNNING, IT WILL STAY RUNNING WITHOUT THE COMPUTER FAB KEY IN THE CAR. THIS IS A SAFETY HAZARD, I CAN LEAVE THE DOOR OPEN AND WALK OUT OF THE CAR WITH THE KEY IN HAND AND IT STAYS RUNNING, A CHILD OR SOMEONE CAN GET IN THE CAR AND SHIFT THE GEAR LEVER CAUSING SERIOUS INJURY. ALSO THERE WAS NO WARNING WHEN I LEFT THE CAR WITH THE COMPUTER KEY IN MY POCKET AND NO FLASHING OF LIGHTS OR BLINKING OR HORN NOISE. THIS IS A VIOLATION OF THE NHTSA LAWS THAT NO VEHICLE SHOULD BE RUNNING ONCE THE KEY HAS LEFT THE CAR. WELL THIS VEHICLE CONTINUES TO RUN WITHOUT THE KEY IN THE CAR, THIS IS VERY DANGEROUS. THE VEHICLE SHOULD SHUT OFF AFTER THE KEY HAS LEFT THE CAR. THIS PUSH BUTTON START IS CHEAP AND CAN CAUSE SERIOUS INJURY. THE CAR SHOULD SHUTOFF WITHOUT THE KEY IN THE CAR. I LEFT THE CAR WITH THE DOOR OPEN AND KEY IN MY POCKET, THE CAR FAILED TO SHUT OFF BECAUSE THE PUSH BUTTON HAS TO BE PRESSED TO SHUT OFF. THE CAR IS SUPPOSE TO SHUT OFF WITHOUT THE KEY IN THE CAR PER NHTSA RULES AND REGULATIONS