2007 Toyota Tundra Power Train

Intermittent Transmission issue. Truck will not shift into 5th or 6th gear. Temporary fix is turning the car off and on again. Problem will eventually return. Is this a Software or Hardware issue? Is there a campaign or recall on this issue?

All Driveshaft Support Bearings failed and needed replaced.

While driving at speeds between 30 - 50 miles an hour. There is a very rough shudder coming from the transmission. It will get better by speeding up or by stopping the vehicle and turning the car off. When the shudder starts and you try to come to a stop the rear end of the vehicle shakes excessively. You think the back of the truck is going to skip off the road. Toyota did a manufacture service bulletin for this issue. However they only covered certain years and my VIN was not included in the fix. My vehicle now has 211000 miles and it is happening to my vehicle.

The contact owns a 2007 Toyota Tundra. The contact stated that while idle at a traffic light and attempting to accelerate, the vehicle was jerking with a popping sound coming from underneath the vehicle near the middle and the rear end. There were no warning lights illuminated. The contact took the vehicle to a certified mechanic who diagnosed that the yoke had separated from the driveshaft. The vehicle was not repaired by the mechanic and was instead taken to the dealer for a possible recall repair related to the failure. The dealer confirmed the diagnostic result however, the vehicle was not included in NHTSA Campaign Number: 07V579000 (Power Train). The contact stated that the same failure had occurred 5 years prior and the vehicle was repaired out-of-pocket. The manufacturer was made aware of the failure. The approximate failure mileage was 100,000.

Transmission shifts very rough. When let off accelerator then back on the trans shift very rough. When coming to a stop and at a stop the trans jumps as if it’s downshifting while sitting still. These issues have been existing since I initially purchased the vehicle. It was reported and I was told it’s normal.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2007 TOYOTA TUNDRA. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE VEHICLE WAS LEAKING TRANSMISSION FLUID. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE ABS WARNING LIGHT AND STABILITY CONTROL WARNING LIGHT ILLUMINATED WHILE EXCEEDING 75 MPH. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO AN INDEPENDENT MECHANIC WHO REPLACED THE TAILSHAFT HOUSING SEAL TWICE HOWEVER, THE FAILURE PERSISTED. THE VEHICLE WAS THEN TAKEN TO NORTH BAKERSFIELD TOYOTA (19651 INDUSTRY PKWY DR, BAKERSFIELD, CA 93308, (661) 615-1100) TO BE DIAGNOSED. THE CONTACT WAS INFORMED THAT THE DRIVELINE NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE. THE CONTACT WAS INFORMED THAT THE VEHICLE WAS NOT INCLUDED IN NHTSA CAMPAIGN NUMBER: 07V579000 (POWER TRAIN) DUE TO THE VEHICLE BEING A 2 WHEEL DRIVE AND NOT A 4 WHEEL DRIVE VEHICLE. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 70,000.

TORQUE CONVERTOR RUMBLING WHEN 1000-1500 RPM AND 40-45MPH.

A NEW TRANSMISSION WAS PUT IN MY 07 TUNDRA IN 2018 (DO TO IMPROPER SERVICE) WORKED WELL AT THAT TIME. IN 2019 TAIL SHAFT SEAL STARTED TO LEAK AGAIN WAS THEN REPLACED WITH A NEW SEAL GENIUNE TOYOTA SEAL HAS WORKED WELL FOR ABOUT 3K MILES AND HAS STARTED TO LEAK AGAIN IT SEEMS TO ONLY LEAK AFTER ONCE THE TRUCK GETS WARMED UP AND ONLY WHEN IT IS IN MOTION ON HWY OR STREETS. I AM SEEING A LOT OF COMPLAINTS ONLINE ABOUT THIS! WILL INCLUDE LINKS. I SEE RECALLS FOR 07 4WD FOR THIS PROBLEM BUT NOT FOR THE 2WD WHY IT SOUNDS LIKE THE SAME PROBLEM EXACTLY, AND FEEL THIS COULD BE A BIG SAFETY PROBLEM LEADING TO AN ACCIDENT, FIRE OR DEATH. HTTPS://WWW.TUNDRATALK.NET/THREADS/TRANSMISSION-TAILSHAFT-SEAL-LEAK.105127/ HTTPS://WWW.KBB.COM/TOYOTA/TUNDRA-DOUBLE-CAB/2007/RECALL/?MILEAGE=96000 HTTPS://WWW.CARCOMPLAINTS.COM/TOYOTA/TUNDRA/2007/DRIVETRAIN/POWER_TRAIN.SHTML THERE IS SOME TYPE OF DRIVELINE OR SEAL PROBLEM HERE AND IT IS CLEAR IT'S NOT JUST THE 2007 4WD IT ALSO AFFECTS THE 2007 2WD TUNDRA TRUCKS AS WELL BEING THE TRANSITION IS A CLOSE SYSTEM AND THE CONSUMER CAN'T AD TRANSITION FLUID WHEN IT'S LOW THIS PROBLEM IS UNACCEPTABLE NOT TO MENTION THE MANY SAFETY ISSUES THIS COULD CAUSE THE DRIVER AND OTHERS ON THE ROAD OR HWY.

I ONLY HAVE 122,000 MILES AND BOTH SHIFT SOLENOIDS SHOWED UP CAUSING VEHICLE TO SLOW DOWN IN LOWER GEAR. I WAS ON FREEWAY AND ALMOST GOT REAR ENDED. COMPUTER PARTS FAULTY FOR WORKING TRANSMISSION

POWERTRAIN: DRIVELINE : DRIVESHAFT. VIN CHECK INFO SHOWS 12 RECALLS ON MY VEHICLE. NHTSA SHOWS 0 RECALLS. HAD TO REPLACE SHAFT ASSY DUE TO FLUID LEAKING AT 13,000 MILES.

COMPLAINTS INVOLVING TAKATA INFLATOR "TAKATA RECALL".PROBLEM WITH AXLE KNOCKNG WHEN COMING .TO A STOP; SOUNDS LIKE METAL TO METAL HITTING.

I HAVE 101,489 ON MY I BOUGHT IT NEW NOW I AM EXPERIENCING TRANSMISSION PROBLEMS HAS THE REGULAR SERVICE ON TRANSMISSION NOW I HAVE A BIG PROBLEM WITH SHIFTING AND JERKING WHAT DO I NEED TO DO..NOW

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2007 TOYOTA TUNDRA. WHILE THE CONTACT'S VEHICLE WAS AT A RED LIGHT, THERE WAS A LOUD NOISE AS IF ANOTHER VEHICLE CRASHED INTO THE REAR OF THE VEHICLE. WHEN THE BRAKE PEDAL WAS RELEASED, A BANGING NOISE WAS HEARD FROM THE DRIVE LINE OF THE VEHICLE. THE FAILURE RECURRED NUMEROUS TIMES. THE CONTACT TOOK THE DRIVESHAFT PARTS TO A DRIVESHAFT SPECIALIST WHERE THE U JOINT AND CARRIER BEARING WERE REPLACED. THE VIN WAS NOT INCLUDED IN NHTSA CAMPAIGN NUMBER: 07V579000 (POWER TRAIN). THE MANUFACTURER WAS MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 116,000.

FRONT DIFFERENTIAL WENT OUT AT 48K MILES. IT COST ME $2000 TO REPLACE. I READ VARIOUS BLOGS AND THIS IS A COMMON PROBLEM ON MANY TUNDRAS BUILT BETWEEN 2007-2013. I DON'T DRIVE MY TRUCK VERY OFTEN AND I TREAT IT VERY GENTLY. THIS WAS A HUGE EXPENSE BILL FOR ANYBODY TO ABSORB. *TR

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2007 TOYOTA TUNDRA. THE CONTACT STATED WHILE DRIVING APPROXIMATELY 25 MPH THE RPM'S INCREASED TO 800. THE FAILURE ALSO OCCURRED WHILE AT A COMPLETE STOP. ON A SEPARATE OCCASION WHILE IDLING THE VEHICLE SLOWLY ACCELERATED UP AN INCLINE INDEPENDENTLY. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 23,500. *TR

AT ABOUT 90,000 MILES, TAIL-SHAFT SEAL LEAKS, REPLACED SEAL AND U-JOIN, AGAIN AT ABOUT 140,000. GEARS FEEL LIKE STUTTERING WHEN STEP ON ACCELERATOR. *TR

AFTER TRYING TO SWITCH MY TRUCK INTO 4 WHEEL DRIVE LO, THE 4 WHEEL LO LIGHT & SYMBOL WOULD FLASH AND NEVER ENGAGE. I TRIED MANY TIMES, MAKING SURE THE VEHICLE WAS ON A LEVEL SURFACE, AT A COMPETE STOP WITH EMERGENCY BRAKE ENGAGED, SHIFTING FROM 2 WHEEL DRIVE TO 4 WHEEL HI AND THEN PLACE THE VEHICLE IN NEUTRAL, WITH MY FOOT ON THE BRAKE AND TRIED TO SWITCH INTO 4 WHEEL LO....NOTHING, IT WILL NOT ENGAGE. IT WILL HOWEVER SHIFT BACK TO 4 WHEEL HI AND BACK TO 2 WHEEL DRIVE. PLEASE KEEP IN MIND, I ONLY USE 4 WHEEL DRIVE HI, DURING SNOW STORMS IN NH AND ONLY USE 4 WHEEL LO TO DRIVE UP MY DRIVEWAY, IN VERY DEEP SNOW AMOUNTS (16"-20" DEPTHS). AFTER FINDING THIS VERY DISAPPOINTING PROBLEM, I SCHEDULED AN APPOINTMENT WITH OUR LOCAL TOYOTA DEALER. THEY HAD THE VEHICLE FOR THE DAY AND WAS ABLE TO REPLICATE THE SAME PROBLEM. ACCORDING TO THE TECH AND SERVICE MANGER, IT WAS DETERMINED THAT THE 4 WHEEL DRIVE ACTUATOR HAS FAILED, THUS REQUIRING THE REPLACEMENT OF THE TRANSFER CASE, ACTUATOR AND A COMPUTER PROGRAM? ANY WAYS THIS WAS A TOYOTA SERVICE BULLETIN WHICH REFERRED THIS REMEDY FIX AND AT THE COST OF (DRUM ROLL PLEASE) $5,200.00 ARE YOU KIDDING ME! I'M AN EX AUTO MECHANIC AND PERFORM A MAJORITY OF MY SCHEDULED SERVICE AND GO TO TOYOTA FOR OTHER MAINTENANCE REPAIRS AND OR SERVICE, IN FACT MY ENTIRE FAMILY VEHICLE HISTORY CAN BE FOUND AT THIS DEALERSHIP PROVING OUR DUE DILIGENT VEHICLE UP KEEP AND LOYALTY. NOW DON'T TAKE THIS THE WRONG WAY, THIS NH TOYOTA DEALERSHIP HAS BEEN GREAT AND HELP US WITH MANY OTHER EXPENSIVE REPAIRS AND I'M NOT BLAMING THEM. I POINT THE BLAME AT THE TOYOTA CORPORATION, FOR NOT STEPPING UP TO MAKE THIS REPAIR AS A PRIORITY, AFTER ALL MY FAMILY HAS OWNED (10) TOYOTA VEHICLES OVER THE PAST 20 YEARS AND ALL OF THEM HAVE REACHED THE 150K - 180K MILES WITHOUT THIS PROBLEM OCCURRING. *TR

RECENTLY WHILE DRIVING MY 2007 TOYOTA TUNDRA, MY DRIVESHAFT FELL OUT OF THE SLIP YOKE AT THE FRONT OF THE TRUCK BEHIND THE TRANSMISSION. AFTER A SHUTTERING OF THE TRUCK I FINALLY STOPPED. LUCKILY, I WAS ONLY GOING 10 MPH AND THE DAMAGE WAS LIMITED TO THE REQUIREMENT FOR MY DRIVE SHAFT TO BE REPLACED. THIS IS AN ITEM IDENTIFIED BY TOYOTA AS A PROBLEM, HOWEVER, MY VIN WAS NOT INCLUDED IN THE SAFETY RECALL. IT SEEMS WITH LIMITED MILEAGE ON THE VEHICLE, A CATASTROPHIC FAILURE OF THE DRIVE TRAIN WOULD NOT HAVE TAKEN PLACE. UPDATED 01/23/14*LJ UPDATED 01/23/14

I TUCK MY TUNDRA TO THE MECHANIC FOR CHECK A NOISE WHEN I'M DRIVING AN HE TOLD ME THE PROBLEM IS A REAR AXLE BEARINGS AND TOLD ME THE TOYOTA THEY BUILT THIS TRUCK WITH SMALL BEARING FOR THE SIZE OF THIS TRUCK , AND THEY TOYOTA ALREADY KNOWN. THE COST FOR IS $1500 . WHAT CAN I DO IF THEY KNEW THE PROBLEM SO THEY NEEDS TO PAY. *TR

TRANSMISSION MOUNT BROKE (SNAPPED). *TR

WHEN MAKING TURNS THERE WAS A GRINDING/SCRAPPING NOISE FROM REAR WHEEL AREA. DEALER CONFIRMED WORN REAR WHEEL BEARINGS REQUIRING A TOYOTA UPDATE KIT TO BETTER PREVENT REPEAT FAILURE. IF MULTIPLE PARTS NEEDED UPDATED PERHAPS ORIGINAL ITEMS WERE NOT PROPERLY DESIGNED? *TR

THE STARTING DATE AND MILEAGE ABOVE IS APPROXIMATE. A SENSATION OF BEING REAR-ENDED A KIND OF BUMP OR CLUNK. YOUR STOPPED AT AN INTERSECTION AND THEN CLUNK. OR, JUST BEFORE TAKING OFF FROM BEING STOPPED AT AN INTERSECTION "CLUNK". THE FREQUENCY OF THIS SYMPTOM STARTED OFF AS JUST ONCE IN A WHILE WHEN FIRST NOTICED AT AROUND 36K MILES. NOW WITH 58,000 IT HAPPENS ON A REGULAR BASIS, SAY, EVERY 50 MILES OR SO. I KEEP A MILEAGE LOG FOR MY BUSINESS AND BEGAN DOCUMENTING WHEN THIS OCCURS. I PRESENTED THIS ISSUE TO THE DEALER TWICE BUT HAVE FAILED TO REPLICATE IT FOR THEM TO EXPERIENCE. *TR

WHEN STOPPING FOR A TRAFFIC LIGHT/STOP SIGN FROM 40-50MPH, THE TRUCK STOPS NORMALLY. AFTER ABOUT 1.5 SECONDS WHEN AT A COMPLETE STOP, THE TRUCK GIVES A KICK. IT IS SEVERE ENOUGH THAT IT FEELS AS IF YOU HAD BEEN REAR ENDED. THE WHOLE TRUCK SHUTTERS. I TOOK IT IN TO THE DEALERSHIP WHO GIVES THE, "I CAN'T DUPLICATE IT" SPIELS. MY TRANNY FLUID WAS LOW DUE TO A LEAKING REAR SEAL SO THEY BLAMED IT ON THAT. THEY CHANGED THE ALUMINUM FRONT DRIVESHAFT AS THEY STATED IT CAUSED THE LEAK. PROBLEM NEVER WENT AWAY. DOES NOT HAPPEN AT ANY OTHER TIME. SUSPECT THE FIRST GEAR CLUTCH PACKS ARE RELEASING AND RE-ENGAGING. COULD BE MECHANICAL BUT IT IS ALSO A POSSIBLE PROBLEM WITH THE TRANSMISSION ECU. SIMILAR ISSUE WITH THE 2007-UP CAMRY WHICH WAS DETERMINED TO BE THE TORQUE CONVERTER. *TR

BOUGHT A 2007 TOYOTA TUNDRA. NOTICED AROUND 23,450 MILES THAT SOMETHING WAS TURNING (SPINNING) AND FELT LIKE IT WAS COMING THROUGH THE DRIVERSIDE FLOOR . RIGHT UNDERNEATH MY FEET. BROUGHT IT IN TOYOTA SAID THEY DIDN'T FIND ANYTHING. LATER HEARD NOISES ON THE LEFT SIDE OF ENGINE NEAR LEFT TIRE. THEN SHAKING AND VIBRATIONS FOLLOWED. AROUND 60,000 MILES TRANSMISSION STARTED SLIPPING AND CLUNKING NOISES CAME FROM THE ENGINE. 65,000 MILES STARTED LOSING POWER. FUEL PUMP FAILURE. PAID FOR A NEW FUEL PUMP SYSTEM $777.79. TURNS OUT 2007 MODEL HAS TO REPLACE WHOLE SYSTEM. NO OTHER TUNDRA NEEDS TO. AT 68,000 MILES IT GOT WORSE . TRANSMISSION DIAGNOSTIC SAYS TRANSMISSION NEEDS TO BE REPLACED. $4500. AT 96,000 MILES MY TRUCK IN NON OPERATING. TOYOTA WILL NOT REPLACE TRANSMISSION. EVEN THOUGH A TOYOTA OPERATIONS MANAGER STATES IT IS NOT NORMAL FOR TRANSMISSION TO GO OUT THIS SOON AT SO LITTLE MILEAGE. THE AVERAGE TIME IS BETWEEN 15-20 YEARS WITH THE HIGH TECHNOLOGY THAT CARS ARE BUILT WITH NOW A DAYS. IS WHAT HE SAID TO ME. OLDER CARS BUILT YEARS AGO TRANSMISSIONS NORMALLY LAST AROUND 5 YEARS SOMETIMES 10 IF THEY WERE LUCKY. SO SUPPOSEDLY OUR VEHICLES ARE BUILT SMARTER NOW ADAYS. I HAVE SO MANY PROBLEMS I FIND THAT HARD TO BELIEVE. *JS

WHEN I HAVE COME TO A COMPLETE STOP, THE CAR LUNGES ,RATHER IT FEELS AS IF ANOTHER VEHICLE HAS BUMPED ME FROM BEHIND.FROM DAY 1 ALMOST THEY TOLD ME IT IS "NORMAL" I HAVE BEEN DRIVING 45 YRS. AND THIS IS NOT NORMAL. THIS IS A MFG. DEFECT THAT IS PROBABLY SO EXPENSIVE TO REPAIR THAT THEY ARE LEAVING IT TO THE OWNER TO REPAIR AFTER THE WARRANTY RUNS OUT I HAVE 32,000 MI. ON IT AND IT CONTINUOUSLY DOES THIS ON A REGULAR BASIS.HELP!!!!!! *JS