2011 Chevrolet Cruze UNKNOWN OR OTHER

I think even though it says no recalls on my mother's car I think it is part of this recall because it keeps happening after repaired correctly by her car repair person. She had it fixed twice for leaking antifreeze then after fixed twice it was fine for a bit then it blew all out and said overheating like what I read in this website link on recall. Know unable to drive it till fixed correctly https://www.vehiclehistory.com/questions/what-is-the-chevy-cruze-antifreeze-leak-recall-about-107459 so she needs it covered to get fixed permanently for good forever for free at here local gm.

I have a massive oil leak and have changed all the parts and it's still has a massive oil leak only when driven what can be done to stop it please help running out of cashmony

BOTH OF MY KEYS HAVE BROKEN OFF. THANKFULLY, THEY'VE NEVER BEEN STUCK IN MY IGNITION, BUT THEY HAVE BOTH SNAPPED OFF. I WAS PARKED IN THE DRIVEWAY (I HAD JUST ARRIVED) AND WENT TO TURN MY IGNITION OFF AND THE KEY SNAPPED AT THE BASE, BY WHERE THE PIN HOLDS IT. THE KEY ITSELF IS OK, BUT COMPLETELY SEPARATED FROM THE BASE OR HOUSING. PLEASE NOTE THIS IS THE SECOND TIME THIS HAS HAPPENED, I THOUGHT MY 11 YEAR OLD BROKE THE FIRST ONE SO I HAVE BEEN USING THE SPARE. THE BREAK LOOKS EXACTLY THE SAME THIS TIME AS THE FIRST TIME, I JUST MUST HAVE DROPPED THE ACTUAL KEY PART OUT WITHOUT NOTICING.

MY TRUNK IS COMING OPEN ON ITS OWN. SOMETIMES WHEN I UNLOCK MY CAR THE TRUNK WILL POP OPEN OTHER TIMES IT WILL JUST POP OPEN WHEN I'M DRIVING DOWN THE ROAD. IT IS NOT MY KEY FOB BECAUSE I HAVE USED DIFFERENT KEY FOBS THAT I HAVE AND THE PROBLEM IS STILL HAPPENING. THIS IS DANGEROUS WHEN DRIVING DOWN THE HIGHWAY. THIS CAN HAPPEN WHEN IT'S SITTING IN THE DRIVEWAY. OVERNIGHT I WAKE UP IN THE MORNING AND THE TRUNK IS OPEN OR WHEN I'M DRIVING DOWN THE ROAD. THIS STARTED HAPPENING JUST THIS MONTH AND HAS BEEN HAPPENING SPORADICALLY BUT AT LEAST ONCE A DAY IF NOT MORE. I'VE DONE SOME RESEARCH ON THE INTERNET AND I AM NOT THE ONLY ONE THIS IS HAPPENING TO WITH THEIR CHEVY CRUZE. I THINK IT RECALL IS AN ORDER BEFORE A WRECK DOES HAPPEN IF IT HASN'T ALREADY.

CAR HAS CONSTANTLY BEEN SLOW IN SHIFTING GEARS WHEN IN AUTOMATIC

CARS HEAT DOES NOT HEAT UP, BLOWS OUT COLD AIR. IT IS ALWAYS ONE CLICK ABOVE COLD WHEN IN MOTION, WHEN SITTING STILL IT WILL HEAT UP 2 CLICKS ABOVE COLD. THIS IS A PROBLEM ON THIS CAR AND THERE ARE MANY COMPLAINTS. THE PROBLEM DOES NOT SEEM TO BE FIXABLE, EVEN WHEN REPLACING THE THE HEATER CORE OR WIRING.

THE KEY FOB HOLDING THE KEY IN THE IGNITION BROKE, LEAVING THE KEY IN THE IGNITION, UNABLE TO TURN OFF OR TURN ON THE VEHICLE.

MOST OTHER GMC AND CHEVY MODELS WERE RECALLED FOR THIS, BUT NOT THIS ONE. IT CLEARLY IS AN ISSUE HERE AS WELL. THE IGNITION CYLINDER LOCK JAMMED. THE KEY WAS STUCK INSIDE AND UNABLE TO TURN OFF THE VEHICLE COMPLETELY, LEAVING IT ON BATTERY MODE.

HAVE A 2011 CHEVY CRUZE THAT I BOUGHT A FEW YEARS AGO, FROM CARMAX. SINCE I BOUGHT THE CAR A FEW YEARS AGO, MY CAR HAS ALWAYS BEEN VERY WARM ON THE DRIVERS SIDE FOOT AREA, AND WHERE MY LEG RESTS THERE IS A PANEL ON THE RIGHT OF THE GAS PEDDLE THAT IS WHERE THE HEAT COMES FROM. I HAVE BROUGHT MY CAR A FEW TIMES TO THE DEALERSHIP AFTER I NOTICED HOW HOT IT GOT IN THAT AREA. OVER 130F! (I GAVE UP AT THIS TIME,) LAST WEEK, MY WIFE HAD A SMALL REAR END CRASH ON MY CAR. NOTHING MAJOR BUT WE TOOK IT TO THE BODY SHOP TO GET WORK ON. WHEN I BROUGHT THE CAR IN TO THEM, I ASKED THEM IF THEY CAN PUT SOME NEW INSULATION PIPE ON MY CAR HEAT PIPES, BECAUSE THE OLD ONES WERE PROBABLY NEEDING TO BE REPLACED. WHEN THE REPLACED IT AND MY CAR WAS READY FOR PICK UP, THEY TOLD ME THAT THEY PUT THE NEW INSULATION ON IT, BUT THEY SHOWED ME THE OLD ONE. THE OLD ONE WAS BURNT AND THEY SAID COULD HAVE ALMOST CAUGHT FIRE THOSE PIPES. ALONG WITH THE SIDE PANEL WAS WARPING DUE TO THE AMOUNT OF HEAT COMING OUT OF THERE. I TOLD THEM AT THE TIME, THAT ITS A SAFETY ISSUE, BUT THEY SAID BECAUSE MY WARRANTY IS EXPIRED FROM YEARS AGO, THEY HAVE TO CHARGE ME FOR INSPECTING IT, FROM THERE IF THEY FIND A ISSUE THEN WE CAN DISCUSS WITH GM WHAT IS THE BEST WAY TO HANDLE TO REPAIRS AND COSTS. (I TOLD THEM I WOULD GET BACK TO THEM ABOUT THAT.)

THE INTERIOR DOOR HANDLE CHROME PEELS AND CAUSED DEEP CUT TO FINGER.

" TAKATA RECALL" TRANSMISSION FAILURE

ROLLED DOWN MY DRIVERS SIDE WINDOW WHILE AT A STOP LIGHT, IT MADE A CLICKING NOISE AND WHEN I TRIED TO ROLL IT UP, THE WINDOW FELL INTO THE DOOR. THE WINDOW WOULDN'T ROLL BACK UP AND MADE MORE CLICKING NOISES WHEN I TRIED TO ROLL IT UP

CHROME IS PEELING ON INTERIOR DOOR HANDLES LEAVING RAZOR SHARP EDGES. UNSUSPECTING PASSENGERS OR DRIVER CAN BE SERIOUSLY CUT BY THE MATERIAL. THIS IS ESPECIALLY DANGEROUS TO CHILDREN EXITING THE CAR.

TAKATA RECALL, I HAVE A 2011 CHEVY CRUZE. MY TURBO IS HAVING UNDERBOOST FAILURE AND NEEDS REPLACED. I CAN NO LONGER INCREASE SPEED WHILE DRIVING ON THE ROAD TO PASS CARS OR GO UP HILLS, I HAVE SEEN SEVERAL OTHER CHEVY CRUZES WITH THE SAME YEAR BEEN RECALLED FOR THE SAME PROBLEM. WHEN I TYPED MY VIN NUMBER IN NOTHING POPPED UP. SO WHY DOESN'T MY CAR QUALIFY ?

BURNING SMELL FROM ENGINE. BACK IN MAY 2016 I STARTED SMELLING THIS BURNING SMELL AFTER YOU DROVE THE CAR FOR 20 MINS. I BRING IT UP TO THE DEALER EVERY TIME I HAVE TO TAKE THE CAR IN. THEY CAN NEVER FIND THE SOURCE. THEY THOUGHT A OIL PAN LEAK WAS IT. THAT WAS FIXED AND THE SMELL STILL IS THERE. THEY CLAIMED TO FIND AN OIL LEAK ANOTHER TIME AND FIXED. THEN IT WAS A TRANSMISSION LEAK, WHICH WAS FIXED AND STILL THE SMELL. THERE IS NEVER FLUID UNDER THE CAR. I HAVE THE SMELL NOTED EVERY TIME.

TAKATA RECALL, TRANSMISSION FAILURE, CAR NOT SHIFTING INTO GEARS. DRIVING ON CITY STREET AT A STOP LIGHT AND THE CAR WOULD NOT ADVANCE FORWARD, I HAD TO PHYSICALLY PUSH IT OFF TO THE SIDE OF THE ROAD TO LET TRAFFIC PASS. CAR WILL NOT ADVANCE IN FORWARD OR REVERSE.

THE HOSE THAT CONNECTS TO THE COOLANT FOR THE AC SYSTEM ALWAYS BREAKS AND THE HEATING AND COOLING STOPS WORKING, THIS IS UNSAFE BECAUSE IT MAY CAUSE OVERHEATING OF THE ENGINE IF NOT REPAIRED.

THE CAR LUNGES REAL BAD DRIVING DOWN THE ROAD. LEAVING A STOP LIGHT. VERY DANGEROUS FOR MY 17 YEAR OLD

NOTICED I WAS LOSING COOLANT RAPIDLY, FULL TANK WITHIN 1-2 DAYS, ONLY DRIVING ABOUT 7 MILES TO WORK AND BACK. . TOOK TO DEALERSHIP (WHERE PURCHASED) AND THEY DETERMINED ENGINE COOLANT LEAKING FROM FAULTY WATER PUMP. THOUGHT THE ISSUE WOULD BE COVERED BY GM EXTENDED WARRANTY BECAUSE ALREADY EXISTING SPECIAL COVERAGE BULLETIN 14371A, EXISTED FOR THIS ISSUE IN 1.4L ENGINE, ...BUT NOT FOR THE 1.8L ENGINE, WHICH IS WHAT I OWN. THE WATER PUMP IN THE 1.4L IS THE EXACT SAME PART IN THE 1.8L ENGINE, SO I'M LEAD TO BELIEVE THAT THE WATER PUMP IN MY VEHICLE SHOULD HAVE BEEN COVERED DUE TO IT BEING A FAULTY PART, IN GENERAL. WATER PUMP WAS REPLACED AND HAVE EXPERIENCED NO MORE LEAKAGE. I AM UNABLE TO ATTACH THE SERVICE INVOICE FROM MCKINLEYVILLE CHEVROLET AND BUICK, BUT CAN PROVIDE HARD COPY.

I HAVE HAD WORK DOWN ON THE AIR CONDITIONER IN THIS AUTOMOBILE THREE (3) TIMES. THE CHEVY CRUZE IS THE WORSE CAR EVERY MADE.

I JUST PURCHASED THIS CAR, USED. I WENT TO START IT, IT WORKED PERFECTLY FINE. I WENT TO START IT AGAIN LATER IN THE EVENING ( 7 HOURS ONLY FROM WHEN I BOUGHT IT ) AND IT WOULD NOT START, LIGHTS WORKED BUT IT WOULD NOT START. EVENTUALLY WHATEVER IS WRONG WITH IT BEGAN TO GET IT WORSE AND NOW IT WON'T START, AND NOTHING WILL WORK. THE KEY IS ALSO STUCK IN THE IGNITION. AGAIN, ONLY HAD THIS CAR LESS THAN 12 HOURS. THE VEHICLE WAS STATIONARY.

I HAVE ATF LEAKING FROM THE CRIMPED END OF A RUBBER LINE GOING TO THE METAL LINE FOR THE TRANSMISSION.

TRANSMISSION IS KICKING WHILE DRIVING, ESPECIALLY WHEN IN REVERSE BUT ALSO WHILE FORWARD. ALSO WHILE IN REVERSE THE CAR WILL GO FORWARD INSTEAD. DOES THIS EVERY TIME IT IS DRIVEN, EVEN WHILE TURNING. MECHANIC SAID IT IS THE ACTUAL TRANSMISSION CAUSING THE PROBLEM.

IT'S TAKES LONG FOR THE GEARS TO CHANGE GET STUCK ON GEARS SMELLS LIKE GAS I. THE CAR AND HAD IT IN PARK AND STARTED TO ROLL BACK WITH OUT STARTING THE CAR IN THE CITY AND IN THE HIGHWAY ACTS THE SAME

TRANSMISSION.