2012 Ford Edge UNKNOWN OR OTHER

The backup camera is faulty. Sometimes you will start the car and it works but most of the time it is just a black screen. I can go out and make several stops and sometimes it will flash on and then go right off. I know there have been several recalls about this but this model so far hasn't been included. It is a widespread problem as I have another Ford vehicle that does the same thing and it is a safety issue.

The issue is my 2012 Ford Edge passenger seat door ajar sensor. The car alarm has been going off all day and in the middle of the night and now the car battery is dead, I've researched this an their are many other consumers that have been having the same issue with 2011 & 2012 Ford Edge vehicles. Why hasn't there been a recall from Ford regarding this? I have not taken this in to be inspected. I understand that the cost for the replacement sensor unit and labor can be $400 - $600. I will try to disconnect the sensor myself and avoid this cost. Now it will be a safety issue. Please encourage Ford to issue a recall on this. Thank you

The door latch system is malfunctioning. The passenger side door will be closed but the light comes on that the door is open or ajar. This is a safety concern. I believe the door to be closed all the way but what if it's not and it opens while driving. I'm not sure if it is just a sensor or the door latch system is not working correctly.

My door ajar warning stays on after all the doors are shut. If I shut my driver door repeatedly, eventually it will turn off.

Senors keep going on and off sometimes I will be driving it will flash on then go off then sometime it will be when I start the car but when I turn the car off and come back to the car and start it again it goes off ABS, ABS Off, and Break Light and warning pops up check break system I have had them check and confirmed it is a sensor issue

Brakes continually malfunction and fail intermittently. It has been an ongoing issue for just over two years. We have found they malfunction and fail after any loss of traction, such as turning on a gravel road or hitting a pothole. For quite some time we have been able to stop and pump the brakes hard and hold them down, repeating until the brakes tightened back up. The last 3 days however they will not function properly. This malfunction/ failure causes extremely spongey brakes making it extremely difficult to slow or stop, having to push the pedal nearly to the floor to start slowing down. Problem had not been reproduced by servicer however we could reproduce the problem once we determined it was a loss of traction causing it. NO warning lights of ANY kind have ever Illuminated! System check always shows brakes are good. Brake fluid is always good. Brakes have been bled multiple times, replaced and brake booster has been replaced as that is what the dealer thought it was the last time i had it checked. Brake booster did NOT fix the hissing or the malfunctioning or failure. So many people with an Edge have brake issues! Please help us get this resolved and corrected before someone gets seriously injured or dies! I have nearly every single date my brakes have malfunctioned/failed and I will provide if requested!

There is a bump sound and the engine goes into Limp Mode. The wrench symbol appears. After stopping and shutting down the engine, it will start normally and continue to run normally. Problem is when it happens on a heavily traveled road and there is a distance before one can turn off.

As I was driving, all of a sudden the car would not pick up speed. I gently put additional pressure on the gas, but nothing happened. I was lucky as I was going out to my mom's. As I pulled into the drive way I heard thumping noises (that is the best way I can explain the sound). Turned car off, visited with my mom, hours later drove home not issues / no light indicators. About a month later I was approaching a stop sign. As I proceeded after the red light turned green, the car again would not increase in speed. I gently applied more pressure to the gas pedal but it would not pick up speed. I had my foot on the gas almost to the floor. I was approaching an overpass but was skeptical about the car gaining speed enough to go over it. I thought best to pull over and seek other options. I called a tow truck and had it towed to my home. The following Monday I had taken it to a repair shop. The garage had it for two days and was unable to detect any thing wrong. This is a serious issue, if this would of happened on a busy freeway, this could result in serious accident in which fatalities could have happened. Losing power on a busy freeway is a disaster waiting to happen. I know my car, this has happened to me two times within 3 months. I am afraid to drive it and have take steps to correct this, but garages "cannot fix what they cannot find". So tell me FORD corporation what advice are giving to you consumers? Or are you going to wait until someone gets killed ?

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2012 FORD EDGE. THE CONTACT STATED WHILE HIS WIFE WAS DRIVING 15 MPH, SHE DEPRESSED THE BRAKE PEDAL BUT IT FAILED TO STOP THE VEHICLE AND REAR ENDED ANOTHER VEHICLE. THE CONTACT STATED THAT WHEN THE BRAKE PEDAL WAS DEPRESSED IT FELT SPONGY. THE CONTACT STATED NO WARNING LIGHT WAS ILLUMINATED. THE DRIVER IN THE OTHER VEHICLE SUSTAINED A BUMP ON HER LEFT SHIN BONE AS SHE WAS STANDING OUTSIDE OF HER VEHICLE PUTTING HER CHILD INTO THE VEHICLE MEDICAL ATTENTION WAS REQUIRED FOR HER INJURIES. A POLICE REPORT WAS FILED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT DRIVABLE. THE VEHICLE WAS TOWED TO KENT CHEVROLET CADILLAC, INC. (1413 HWY 62 E, MOUNTAIN HOME, AR 72653: (888) 536-0357) AND WAS SERVICED FOR THE BODY DAMAGE OF THE VEHICLE. THE VEHICLE HAD NOT BEEN DIAGNOSED OR REPAIRED FOR THE BRAKE FAILURE AS OF YET. THE MANUFACTURER HAD NOT BEEN INFORMED OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 192,836.*DT*DT*JB*JB CONSUMER CALLED THE DEALER AND DEALER SAID HE WOULD TAKE A LOOK AT IT.*JB*DT

I WAS DRIVING MY CAR WITH MY 6 YEAR OLD IN IT AND IT SUDDENLY LOST POWER ON THE FREEWAY. THERE WAS A YELLOW WRENCH THAT APPEARED ON THE DASHBOARD I WAS ABLE TO VEER OVER TO SAFETY. FORD SAID IT WAS THE MAF AIRFLOW SENSOR. WE REPLACED IT. TODAY, 4 DAYS LATER IT HAPPENED AGAIN WITH MY DAUGHTER IN THE CAR. I BOUGHT THIS CAR 2 MONTHS AGO FROM ALBANY SUBARU AND THEY CLAIMED IT PASSED A 19 POINT INSPECTION. I HAVE A LOAN OUT ON IT AND IT'S A COMPLETELY UNSAFE VEHICLE

BLOWER MOTOR QUIT. IT'S NOT THE FUSE. VEHICLE WAS STATIONARY AND JUST STARTED. *TR

VEHICLE IS NOT RECOGNIZING DRIVER DOOR IS SHUT. HAVE TO SLAM DOOR REPEATEDLY TO HAVE THE CAR REGISTER THE DOOR IS NOT AJAR.

CAR STARTS TO IDLE ROUGH PRIMARILY WHILE APPROACHING/SITTING AT STOP LIGHTS THOUGH HAS HAPPENED WHILE IN MOTION. IT STARTS TO SHAKE BEFORE LOW ENGINE OIL PRESSURE LIGHT AND/OR SERVICE ENGINE LIGHT COMES ON. CAR THEN "FREEZES" AS CAN'T STEER, CAN'T GO FORWARD OR REVERSE AND CAN'T SHIFT INTO ANOTHER GEAR. CAR TURNS OFF AND MAY RESTART WITHOUT ANY ISSUE OR MAY STRUGGLE TO TURN BACK ON AFTER MANY TRIES (10) WITH NORMAL FUNCTION. ONLINE SEARCH INDICATES THIS IS A COMMON PROBLEM FOR THIS YEAR, MAKE & MODEL WITH PROBLEM BEING ATTRIBUTED TO ONE OF THE FOLLOWING: BAD OIL PRESSURE SENSOR AND/OR VALVE, BAD OIL SENDING UNIT, BAD BEARINGS, WATER PUMP ISSUE RESULTING IN ANTIFREEZE BACKUP, FAULTY TACHOMETER OR BAD BATTERY JUNCTION BOX

I WAS DRIVING SLOWLY DOWN A STREET AT ABOUT 20-30 MPH AND TRIED TO CLOSE MY SUNROOF AND THE PLASTIC THAT HOLDS IT INTO THE MOVING TRACK BROKE OFF LEAVING IT STUCK IN THE OPEN POSITION. I TOOK IT TO FORD THINKING THAT SINCE THERE HAVE BEEN MULTIPLE ISSUES WITH THEIR EDGE CARS' ROOFS, THEY WOULD BE ABLE TO REPAIR IT. INSTEAD THEY WANTED TO CHARGE ME $8,000 TO REPAIR THE WHOLE ROOF.

DOOR AJAR SENSOR CONSISTENTLY TRICKERS WHEN DOOR IS CLOSED UNABLE TO DEACTIVATE. OCCURS WHEN OPENING THEN CLOSING DOORS TO DRIVE OUT OR PARKING TO DISMOUNT FROM CAR.

WHEN DRIVING DOWN HIGHWAY 700 I WENT TO PUT ON BRAKES AND IT FELT LIKE I DIDN'T HAVE ANY IT WENT ALL THE WAY TO THE FLOOR BEFORE STOPPING! BASICALLY THE BRAKES ARE JUST BARLEY THERE. VERY DANGEROUS AND SCARY NOT TO MENTION I HAD 2 KIDS WITH ME. THIS HAPPENED BEFORE ABOUT 9 MONTHS AGO IT WAS A RECALL AND WAS FIX BUT NOW IT HAS HAPPENED AGAIN. ALSO MY DOOR AJAR INDICATOR LIGHT KEEPS STAYING ON.

DRIVERS DOOR IS INCORRECTLY REPORTED AS BEING OPEN, INTERIOR LIGHTS ARE TURNED ON, PARKED OR WHILE DRIVING AND STOPPED AT TRAFFIC LIGHTS, IMPAIRING VISIBILITY OUTSIDE AT NIGHT. SECONDARY PREVENTS DOORS VEHICLE FROM BEING LOCKED BY EXTERNAL PAD WHEN PARKING THE VEHICLE AS WELL AS KEEPING LIGHTS ON DRAINING THE BATTERY. TRYING TO OPEN/CLOSE DOOR MULTIPLE TIMES EVENTUALLY RESOLVES, BUT GETS FRUSTRATING WHEN IT IS 5+ MIN TRYING TO DO THIS IN RAIN OR IN PARKING LOTS THIS HAS BEEN INCREASING IN FREQUENCY AND MORE FREQUENT IN COLD WEATHER THAN WARM..

THE REAR DRIVER SIDE DOOR LATCH SENSOR DOES NOT DETECT WHEN THE DOOR IS CLOSED RESULTING IN A DOOR AJAR SIGNAL AND THE INTERNAL LIGHTS STAYING ON. ADDITIONALLY THE AUTO LOCK FUNCTION WHEN THE CAR IS DRIVING IS DISABLED.

DOOR AJAR LIGHT IS ON TELLING DRIVER TO SHIFE TO PARK DOOR LOCKS WILL NOT STAY LOADED WHEN DRIVING, SO ANYONE CAN OPEN CAR DOOR WHILE TRAVELING DOWN THE ROAD , THIS IS NOT SAFE FOR SOMEONE MAY OPEN DOOR AND FALL OUT OR IF YOUR AT TRAFFIC LIGHT SOMEONE OUT SIDE OF CAR CAN OPEN DOOR, THIS IS UNSAFE , YOU STAND A CHANCE OF BEING CAR JACKKED OR SOME OTHER BAD THINGS CAN HAPPEN. I'D SAY CAR IS UNSAFE AND THE PROBLEM NEEDS TO BE RECALLED. I HAD FORD DEALER CHECK IT OUT AND SAID IT NEEDS A DRIVER DOOR LATCH ASSY. REPLACED THIS PROBLEM HAD OCCURRED ON AND OFF OVER THE PASS YEAR OR SO BUT WOULD SEEM TO FIX IT SELFWITH IN A FEW MILES BUT NOW IT STAYS ON

DOOR AJAR ERROR. DOOR IS CLOSED BUT THE LATCH MECHANISM DOESN'T ENGAGE AND SEND A A PROPER SIGNAL TO THE CAR, SO LIGHTS STAY ON.

WHEN DRIVING CAR TRANSMISSION RANDOMLY GOES INTO NEUTRAL AND WHEN YOU GIVE IT GAS IT WILL NOT GO. THIS IS VERY DANGEROUS. ONE COULD GET HIT AND KILLED. I CHECKED WITH FORD AND THERE IS NO RECALL YOUTUBE SHOWS ISSUES W/THIS

HEATING PROBLEM, HEAT ON DRIVER SIDE IN CAR THE PASS. SIDE BLOWING OUT COLD AIR.

THE DOOR AJAR LIGHT AND WARNING SOUNDS ALERT WHEN ALL DOORS OF THE VEHICLE ARE DEFINITELY CLOSED. THIS HAS CAUSED ME TO RUIN 2 BATTERIES IN THE LAST 1.5 YEARS. ALSO IT CAUSES MY DOOR LOCKING MECHANISM TO NOT ENGAGE WHILE DRIVING LEAVING ME VULNERABLE AND UNSAFE AS A FEMALE DRIVER. MY FORD DEALER WILL CHARGE ME +$500 TO FIX THE 2 FAULTY MECHANISMS, THEN PROBABLY ANOTHER +$500 WHEN THE OTHER 2 BEGIN NOT WORKING.

DOOR LOCK ASSEMBLY, ALTHOUGH DOOR IS COMPLETELY SHUT, DOOR AJAR ALERT STAYS ON, WHICH CAUSES ALL THE LIGHTS TO REMAIN ON AND IT DOES NOT ALLOW YOU TO LOCK YOUR DOORS, WHICH IS A SAFETY ISSUE WHEN YOU HAVE CHILDREN WHO COULD POTENTIALLY OPEN THE DOOR WHILE IN MOTION. SOME LIGHTS REMAIN ON AFTER DOOR IS CLOSED WHICH CAN DRAIN BATTERY. ISSUE OCCURS REGARDLESS OF WHETHER THE VEHICLE IS STATIONARY OR IN MOTION

DOOR AJAR LIGHT STAYS ON AFTER CAR DOOR IS SHUT WHICH IN TURN LEAVES YOUR DOME LIGHTS ON WHICH IN TURN WILL RUN YOUR BATTERY DEAD. DOORS WILL NOT LOCK AND THAT'S A SAFETY HAZARD IF YOU HAVE CHILDREN IN THE BACKSEAT