2015 Ford Mustang Exterior Lighting

The contact owns a 2015 Ford Mustang. The contact stated that before making a left turn the contact switched on the left turn light signal; however, upon making the left turn the contact noticed that the left turn signal on the instrument panel was flashing twice as fast as normal. The contact pulled over to inspect the vehicle. The contact became aware that the taillights were inoperable; however, after restarting the vehicle, the taillights became operable. The following day the contact drove to a local dealer where the vehicle was inspected; however, the vehicle was not diagnosed. The contact was informed that the vehicle needed to be diagnosed to determine the cause of the failure. The contact was made aware of SSM: 10144218 and linked it to the failure. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was not notified of the failure. The approximate failure mileage was 82,000.

My break light switch pad is broken and is causing the car to not maintain speed and sluggish acceleration. I have seen other drivers report the same failure with their cars.

MY BATTERY DIED AND REQUIRED A JUMP THE NEXT MORNING. WHEN I BEGAN DRIVING, THE CAR WAS THROTTLING DOWN AS I WAS ATTEMPTING TO ACCELERATE AS IF THE ENGINE WAS LOSING POWER. I DIDN'T FEEL SAFE DRIVING SO I RETURNED HOME AND NOTICE THAT MY REAR LIGHTS INCLUDING THE BRAKE LIGHT STAYED ILLUMINATED EVEN WHEN THE CAR WAS OFF. I HAD TO DISCONNECT THE BATTERY IN ORDER TO SAVE MY BATTERY FROM DRAINING AGAIN. AFTER SOME INVESTIGATING I FOUND THE BRAKE SWITCH PAD WAS BROKEN AND THIS IS WHAT WAS CAUSING THE BRAKE LIGHTS TO BE ON ALL THE TIME AND CAUSING THE LACK OF ENGINE POWER. THIS ISSUE WAS NOT ALLOWING THE CAR TO ACCELERATE BECAUSE THE THROTTLE IS OVER-RIDDEN BY THE BRAKES. THE CAR WAS THINKING THE BRAKE PEDAL WAS BEING PUSHED AT THE SAME TIME AS THE GAS PEDAL. THE BRAKE SWITCH PAD BREAKING AND CAUSING THIS PROBLEM IS VERY DANGEROUS. I'M SO LUCKY IT HAPPENED ON A LOCAL ROAD AND NOT THE HIGHWAY. I'VE READ MULTIPLE ACCOUNTS OF THIS HAPPENING TO OTHER PEOPLE. FORD NEEDS TO ISSUE A RECALL AND GET THIS FIXED TO AVOID MAJOR ACCIDENTS.

A NON-CONDUCTIVE PAD IS INSTALLED BETWEEN THE BRAKE SENSOR SWITCH AND BRAKE ARM. THE PAD BECOMES BRITTLE OVER TIME AND BREAKS ALLOWING THE BRAKE SENSOR TO ENGAGE. THIS CAUSES THE CAR TO GO INTO 'LIMP' MODE WHICH CAN OCCUR WHILE DRIVING ON HIGHWAYS. THIS IS A SAFETY ISSUE SINCE IT OCCURS RANDOMLY AND CAN HAPPEN AT HIGH SPEEDS.

Traveling on highway using cruise control at posted speed limit. Approached slowdown due to accident and applied brakes. Accelerated to limit (manually) after passing accident. I was in middle lane. Vehicle abruptly began to decelerate. Continuous pressure on gas pedal did not increase speed, so I put on hazards and moved to slow lane. No failures on dashboard and quick scan through gages did not identify an issue. Re-applied pressure to gas pedal wanting to get to next exit. Car sped up, but when approaching 50 mph, it decreased again. Found that pumping gas would allow me to maintain highway speed. Pulled into truck stop at exit and turned car off. Message on console "Hill start assist not available". Let vehicle rest 15 minutes, added gas. Quick web search seemed to point to problem with ABS sensor. Seemed to drive ok in parking lot and road leading to highway ramp. Decided to try to get closer to home. Problem occurs immediately after climbing to 50 mph. Cruise control won't work. By carefully monitoring speed and pumping gas into overdrive when needed, I was able to get home. Could not get appointment with dealership until late afternoon next day. Hill start assist message comes on again when stopping. After arriving home and parking in garage I went inside for about 30 minutes. Needed to unload items from car and went back to garage noticing that the strip of lights above trunk are still on. Got back in car, started it (got hill assist message), turned lights on/off and turned off car. Now my rear brake lights are also on. I had seen a post about this, so unhooked battery to prevent drain. Next morning, reattached battery and had same problem. After more internet investigation, Awesome humans who have also had this dangerous issue and provided a $5 fix instead of a $500+ dealership fix. https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/brake-light-switch-near-pedal-failure.122100/pag SUDDEN UNEXPECTED THROTTLE CAUSING SLOWDOWN ON BUSY INTERSTATE IS LIFE THREATENING.

Brake light switch pad broke , So the car thinks the brakes are on so it goes into "limp mode" and it starts turning off assist modes.

The issue is the Brake Light switch stop pad on the brake pedal which is a rubber type of plug. At 70,000 miles the brake light switch stop pad cracked and fell into floor board (see pictures). When that happened, the RPMs dropped to idle speed and the car slowed down. After a few seconds, the car would pick up speed again only to repeat the event over and over again. I understand that when the brake light switch stop pad is missing and the plunger on the switch is fully out, the car thinks that you are applying the brakes. I was lucky, I was on a two lane road with no traffic, but I was headed to an inter-state with heavy traffic. Ford (nor does anyone else) does not sell just the rubber plug which fits on the brake pedal, but it will sell the complete brake pedal assembly. Not sure the reason that the brake pedal would require the hole that requires the rubber plug, but think that Ford should be responsible for the replacement or a better solution for the repair (Provide a replacement plug, not just the complete Brake pedal assembly. Thank you for you time in this matter. [XXX] PARTS OF THIS DOCUMENT HAVE BEEN REDACTED TO PROTECT PERSONALLY IDENTIFIABLE INFORMATION PURSUANT TO THE FREEDOM OF INFORMATION ACT (FOIA), 5 U.S.C. 552(B)(6).

Brake pedal pad failed, causing car to suddenly brake even though brakes were not being applied. Ford Dealership recommended replacing brake light switch assembly. Brake lights stayed on even after the car was turned off. Had to disconnect the battery to prevent drain.

I'm on highway going 70mph and all the sudden my car slows down drastically to about 35mph and won't accelerate any higher. I almost caused an accident. After I got home I also noticed my brake lights would not go off, even after the car was off for a bit. I had to undo the battery.

Plastic clip for brake light switch disintegrates over time, causing reduced power and inoperative brake lights.

BREAK SWITCH PAD IS REALLY EASY TO BREAK. BREAK LIGHTS STAY ON AFTER CAR IS STOPPED AND IN PARK AND CUT OFF. WHILE DRIVING VERY DANGEROUS GET NO POWER TO SPEED UP AND WHEN YOU HIT THE GAS NOTHING.

The brake light switch function was inhibited due to the plastic retainer mounted on the pedal assembly. The plastic retainer had become brittle and caused it to come apart in pieces. The retainer acts a point of contact for the brake light switch plunger which signals to the ECM when the driver is applying or not applying the brakes. Symptoms of failure are constant illumination of rear brake lights with vehicle on or off. Disables cruise control. Also most importantly it limits throttle control by reducing throttle range spraticly. No driver warnings or lights are displayed or illuminated on the IPC. Problem has been verified and reproduced by independent service center.

2015 MUSTANG GT ANNIVERSARY EDITION. RIGHT TAILLIGHT FUNCTION ARE INTERMITTENT IN PART OR WHOLE. AFFECTED ARE TAILLIGHT, TURN SIGNAL, BRAKE, AND EMERGENCY FLASHER. THIS CURS WHETHER IN MOTION OR NOT. HAS BEEN IN EFFECT AT START OR DURING RUN WHILE DRIVING.

While driving and pressing on accelerator pedal car slows down without pressing the gas as if the car is about to turn off. This is a very dangerous hazard as I am in the middle of a highway which can cause an accident if it does turn ofd. I noticed that the brake lights are on 24 hours a day whether the vehicle is off or on , this could be the issue, something is either jammed in the engine system or the brakes sensors are messed up and are not telling the rest of the car that the car is on and moving. There is no messages that are telling me inside the mustang that something is wrong with my car . I have had my car 6 years and this is the first time I see this happening.

INTERMITTENT FUNCTION OF RIGHT REAR TAIL LIGHT, INCLUDING TAILLIGHT, TURN SIGNAL, BRAKING, AND EMERGENCY FLASHER UPON RUN AND DURING DRIVE. I SUSPECT THIS IS A SAFETY ISSUE.

THE BRAKE PEDAL STOPPER FAILED. THE BRAKE LIGHTS STAY ON ALL THE TIME, YOU ARE UNABLE TO ACCELERATE SAFELY. THIS IS A DRIVEABILITY AND SAFETY ISSUE AND POOR DESIGN. THIS OCCURED WHILE DRIVING ON STREET, WHEN I STOPPED IS WHEN I NOTICED THE BRAKE LIGHTS ON AFTER 15 MINUTES BEING STOPPED. I RESTARTED CAR AND ATTEMPTED TO ACCELERATE BUT UNABLE TO EFFECTIVELY. I HAD A VEHICLE FOLLOW ME AROUND BLOCK AND THE BRAKE LIGHTS WERE ON ALL THE TIME. HAD VEHICLE TRAILERED TO THE FORD DEALER FOR DIAGNOSIS AND REPAIR. THIS VEHICLE HAS ONLY 1857 MILES ON IT.

THE RIGHT REAR TAILLIGHT WILL INTERMITTENTLY FUNCTION (TAIL LIGHT, TURN SIGNAL, STOP LIGHT) AS A WHOLE WHILE IN MOTION OR STOPPED.

THERE IS A SMALL PAD ON THE BRAKE PEDAL BETWEEN THE PEDAL SHAFT AND THE BRAKE LIGHT ACTIVATION SWITCH. THIS PAD SHATTERED INTO SMALL PARTS CAUSING MY BRAKE LIGHTS TO REMAIN ILLUMINATED EVEN WHEN I WASN'T BRAKING. THERE WAS NO WARNING PROVIDED BY THE CAR THAT THE BRAKE LIGHTS REMAINED ON. THE LIGHTS WERE ON WHEN DRIVING, WHEN PARKED WITH THE VEHICLE RUNNING OR NOT RUNNING. I BELIEVE IT BROKE WHILE DRIVING THE VEHICLE BUT I CAN'T BE SURE. THERE ARE MULTIPLE PADS WITHIN THE PEDAL CLUSTER ON THE CLUTCH AND OTHER PEDALS THAT ARE THE SAME PART AND MAY BE PRONE TO FAILURE. THE ATTACHED PHOTO INCLUDES THE BROKEN PART AND A PICTURE INDICATING THE EMPTY SPOT WHERE THE PART IS MISSING.

SUDDENLY STARTED EXPERIENCING A LOSS OF POWER AT HIGHWAY SPEEDS ONLY REMEDIED BY SLAMMING THE ACCELERATOR TO THE FLOOR WHICH THEN CAUSED THE CAR TO SURGE FORWARD. AFTER GETTING THE CAR HOME ALSO NOTICED THE REAR BRAKE LIGHTS WOULD REMAIN ON AT ALL TIMES. THE TWIN PROBLEMS ENDED UP BEING CONNECTED. TURNS OUT THERE IS A SMALL PLASTIC/CERAMIC PIECE IN THE BRAKE ASSEMBLY THAT FAILS AND BREAKS APART WITHOUT WARNING - ALSO NO DASHBOARD WARNINGS AFTER IT FAILS. CAUSES THE VEHICLE TO THINK THE BRAKES ARE BEING APPLIED AND CUTS THE POWER IN RESPONSE. THIS HAPPENED WHILE TRAVELING AT INTERSTATE HIGHWAY SPEED AND WAS AN IMMEDIATE SAFETY ISSUE. WAS TOLD BY THE DEALER THIS SMALL PART IS VERY SUSCEPTIBLE TO FLORIDA HEAT - UNFORTUNATELY THE WHOLE BRAKE ASSEMBLY HAS TO BE REPLACED.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2015 FORD MUSTANG. THE CONTACT STATED WHILE DRIVING 70 MPH, THE VEHICLE WENT INTO LIMP MODE AND THE SPEED DECELERATED. THE CONTACT STATED NO WARNING LIGHT WAS ILLUMINATED. THE CONTACT PARKED ON THE SIDE OF THE ROAD TO CREATE A TEMPORARY FIX TO DRIVE TO THE DEALER. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO AUTONATION FORD MOBILE LOCATED AT 901 EAST INTERSTATE 65 SERVICE RD S, MOBILE, AL 36606, (251) 202-2016, WHERE IT WAS DIAGNOSED WITH NEEDING RUBBER GROMMET BRAKE PEDAL TO BE REPLACED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS INFORMED OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS APPROXIMATELY 94,000.

THE PLASTIC BRAKE LIGHT SWITCH PAD LOCATED ON THE BRAKE PEDAL ARM DETERIORATED AND FELL APART. AFTER THE PAD WAS GONE, THE BRAKE LIGHTS WOULD NOT GO OUT. IT MAY ALSO AFFECT THE TRACTION CONTROL WHEN THE BRAKE LIGHT SWITCH STOPS WORKING.THIS IS A COMMON PROBLEM AFTER ABOUT FIVE YEARS. I NOTICED THIS DEFECT RIGHT AWAY, OTHERWISE THE BATTERY WOULD HAVE GONE DEAD. THE SPECIFIC PART IS NOT AVAILABLE FROM FORS SO THEY WANT YOU TO REPLACE THE WHOLE BRAKE PEDAL ASSEMBLY. THE NEW ONE HAS THE SAME DEFECTIVE PART INSTALLED. THIS IS A DANGEROUS DEFECT. IT IS ALSO VERY EXPENSIVE TO REPAIR.

BREAK SENSOR PAD BROKE CAUSING LIGHTS TO ALWAYS STAY ON AND CAR TO BE IN LIMP HOME MODE

BRAKE LIGHT STOP PAD BROKE INTO MULTIPLE PIECES WHILE DRIVING, CAUSING THE BRAKE LIGHT SWITCH TO MALFUNCTION. BRAKE LIGHTS REMAINED ON EVEN WHEN PEDAL IS NOT DEPRESSED, WHICH CAUSES VARIOUS PERFORMANCE ISSUES DUE TO THE ECU BELIEVING THE BRAKE PEDAL IS BEING DEPRESSED. BRAKE LIGHTS REMAINED ON WHEN CAR WAS TURNED OFF.

THE BRAKE LIGHT SWITCH PLUNGER BROKE OFF THE BRAKE PEDAL CAUSING THE BRAKE LIGHTS TO CONSTANTLY ILLUMINATE. THIS IS A SAFETY HAZARD FOR POOR DESIGN SUBSTANDARD MATERIAL. *TR

THE BRAKE STOP PAD SPONTANEOUSLY SHATTERED ON MY '15 FORD MUSTANG V6 WHILE DRIVING. THE CAR LOST POWER: WOULD NOT EXCEED APPROX 1500 RPM, THROTTLE UNRESPONSIVE, NO CHECK ENGINE LIGHT (MIL). I WAS DRIVING ON A TWO WAY ROAD AND SUDDENLY LOST POWER AS I WAS APPROACHING THE 75MPH SECTION FROM 55MPH. THE TRACTOR TRAILER BEHIND ME COULD HAVE REAR ENDED ME IF THEY WEREN'T PAYING ATTENTION. FORTUNATELY, WHEN THE PAD BROKE, THE BRAKE LIGHTS ILLUMINATED DESPITE NOT DEPRESSING THE BRAKE PEDAL. OTHER DRIVERS WERE AWARE THERE WAS A PROBLEM IMMEDIATELY BEFORE I TURNED ON THE HAZARD LIGHTS. WITH THE PAD BROKEN, THE TAIL LIGHTS WILL NOT TURN OFF EVEN AFTER ENGINE SHUTDOWN AND THE BUTTON-START IGNITION BYPASSED THE NEED TO DEPRESS THE BRAKES TO START THE ENGINE. IT IS DANGEROUS TO BE ABLE TO START THE ENGINE WITHOUT NEEDING TO ENGAGE THE BRAKES. MANY PEOPLE HAVE HAD THIS PROBLEM BUT IT IS DIFFICULT TO TROUBLESHOOT SINCE THERE'S NO MIL OR DTC CODES. THIRD PARTY REPLACEMENT PAD COST $2, BUT FORD, APPARENTLY, ONLY SELLS THE WHOLE BRAKE ASSEMBLY FOR $200 AND COSTS UP TO $900 TO HAVE IT DONE. PEOPLE HAVE OPTED TO USE ZIP-TIES OR DISC MAGNETS INSTEAD. VEHICLES WITH THIS BRITTLE BRAKE PAD NEED TO HAVE THEM REPLACED ASAP. IT SEEMS '15 VEHICLES ARE FAILING AFTER 3-4 YEARS. THE SUDDEN LOSS OF POWER AND BYPASSING THE BUTTON-START IGNITION SAFETY FEATURES MAKES THIS A SERIOUS ISSUE. OWNERS WITH THIS ISSUE SEEM TO LIVE IN HOTTER REGIONS LIKE TEXAS OR FLORIDA.